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Registered
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 740
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Master cylinder bolt torqueing
Hi, anyone have an idea how to torque the nut on master cylinder on the side where the electrical connections are. Wayne book showed a nice picture of him torquing the other side, but I wondered how he got the torque wrench on the nut on the side with the electrical connections. There is no clearance for the torque wrench. My thought is just to do that one with a box end wrench and guess-timate. Any other things to know about this installation project that I should be aware of. Thanks Jerry
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06-05-2006, 07:33 PM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Cle Elum - Eastern WA.
Posts: 8,417
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With the lock nuts and some experience, I did not torque mine when I replaced the MC last month. One thing you should know is:
The supply lines aren't much fun to reinstall. To get extra room. I went above and removed the plastic resevior....I then went to the area of the pedals and freed up the lines allowing me to pull some extra length out the bottom. This gave me room to work and get the supply lines in the new MC before I bolted it to the firewall. After that, it's a walk in the park.........G'luck
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Bob S. 73.5 911T 1969 911T Coo' pay (one owner) 1960 Mercedes 190SL 1962 XKE Roadster (sold) - 13 motorcycles |
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06-06-2006, 02:20 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Downingtown, pa usa
Posts: 369
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Just did this this weekend. I know what you mean. I tightend w/o torque wrench to same feel as other side. Took Wayne's warning to heart "do not over torque". I beleive the torque value is not that high something like 17-19 Lbs?- I don't have the book with me.
You did remove it from thr car - right? I removed the air diverter behind the MC as well - to get access to the brake lines. - I wanted to make sure i did not strip these nuts. Car is 30 years old and I think they are org. No problems though. Have reintalled yet, nut thanks for the heads up on the brakelines! Good luck, Earl
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78 SC Coupe 93 RSA (Gone) |
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06-06-2006, 09:06 AM
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Join Date: May 2004
Location: Lake Cle Elum - Eastern WA.
Posts: 8,417
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MY experience above is for a '73.5 model.......Newer models with the booster might be different regarding supply lines?
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Bob S. 73.5 911T 1969 911T Coo' pay (one owner) 1960 Mercedes 190SL 1962 XKE Roadster (sold) - 13 motorcycles |
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06-06-2006, 11:34 AM
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a boosted MC is damn easier. all the hard stuff is done on a bench. i have done the other type twice, and those supply lines are at the top of the list as far as frustration is concerned.
i just did the boosted one a few days ago. i guessed the torque with a box wrench. not so worried about it.
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06-06-2006, 11:57 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: New Hartford, NY
Posts: 740
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Thanks for the responses. I guess every one has the does it the same way with a wrench. I think I will torgue the nut that I can and get the feel for that torgue of 19 lb and tighten to thant feel. Every one says reinstalling the supply lines in the grommets is difficult, and ideas on this installation. When installing the new seal do you install dry or lubricate it with a little brake fluid, does it matter. By the way my car is a boosted 77 911. Thanks Jerry
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06-06-2006, 06:22 PM
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no way, try it dry. on the bench, it is damn easy. laying under the car, for an unboosted unit, is 100x harder.
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06-07-2006, 07:34 AM
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