Rear caliper replacement '81 SC

Huh · 04-18-2006, 10:49 AM

I want to replace my rear caliper with another one I have. I noticed it was hard to depress the inside piston. Although I was able to do so I think it may bind a bit. My question: is there a special flare nut wrench needed to remove the hard line? I can't get mine in there that well. I thought about bending the wrench to get more offset but I really don't want to ruin that wrench for just my Porsche. I have also thought about cutting a combination wrench and then bending it (cheap wrench). My biggest fear is stripping the nut. I am probably more timid working on my porsche than my VWs. I have many years of experience on them but the Porsche is new to me. Thanks for any help.

Oh Haha · 04-18-2006, 11:51 AM

Use a line wrench ONLY. I found that by unbolting the caliper I could get to the fitting much easier. You know they are rebuildable, right? The rebuild kit like $16.00 from Pelican. Rebuild all four of them while you are in there as most likely the others will start sticking. You will have to bleed the system anyway so you may as well do it completely. It is not that hard to do. Spray some PB Blaster on the flare nuts before trying to loosen them. Mine came off with out any drama at all. If you get stuck, just do a search here for more info that you could possibly need.

BTW- Our beloved Porsches were made for the rigors of racing. Jsut take your time and get some manuals and you willbe just fine. I thought the same thing until I just jumped in and yanked my engine one Sunday a couple of years ago. Now, I will tackle every job I have the tools to do. Yes, my Porsche tool collection is growing.

BTW-

Huh · 04-18-2006, 12:06 PM

yeah the PO had some binding in that caliper so he provided me with a new/rebuilt caliper, hawk rear pads and some ATE. I just wanted to make sure that by doing what you said would be the best way to do it. I have all the nice goodies to bleed brakes. A pneumatic sucker is so nice for jobs like this. Thanks....

Oh Haha · 04-18-2006, 01:51 PM

I installed a set of Speed Bleeders when I did my brakes this year. THOSE are nice for jobs like this.

Superman · 04-18-2006, 02:26 PM

Yep, if you remove the pads, unbolt the caliper and take the clip off the rear end of the hard line, you can push the caliper toward the car center...the hard lines moves through the bracket on the trailing arm and the caliper can conveniently rest on the trailing arm. In this position and with a vise grip C-clamp, you can pop those pistons out, install new rubber and replace them.....Viola, a rebuilt caliper.....all without disconnecting the brake line.

Ryce Stallings · 04-18-2006, 05:32 PM

I was told that sometimes the binding is not only caused by the seal but that there is rust on the piston also. The pistons aren't available separately.