Trailing Arm Bush

[1972_911T]

Ive just been looking for trailing arm bush's on our host and noticed these's quite a price difference between the O/E rubber ones and the Poly Graphite one's. Whats the difference are the rubber one's simply more expensive because they are O/E or are the poly graphite ones inferior?

Thanks Steve

[1972_911T]

Anyone?

[gduke]

Stay away from the rubber bushings. Only buy them if they come w/ a new control arm and are volcanized like the new factory ones. I used the Elephant Racing, which our host sells. They work great. Well worh the money.

Do a search. Nothing but positive comments.

Gary

[randywebb]

I am very happy with the Neatrix rubber ones I put on. Other posts to same effect if you do a search. Not sure why the comment above, but the Elph. products have a good rep.

Most avoid the polygraphite ones and use Elph. or original rubber. I sincerely doubt there is any need to vulcanize them on the rear arms.

What is the car used for?

[1972_911T]

Hi I think there is a bit of confusion here over what bushes I mean. I'm referring to the trailing arm or banana arm bush's not the spring plate bush's. For the spring plates I have already purchased the neatrix but have decided to do the trailing arm bush's as well.

Thanks Steve

[Dixie]

Use the rubber bushings, or pillow-ball mounts. Poly is to stiff, and will bind. The trailing arm (aka banana arm) doesn't just move up and down. It moves in and out as it goes up and down.

While the factory bushings may cost a bit, they are a proven commodity that will last 20+ years.

[MotoSook]

Use a spherical bearing. The rubber bushings allow movement you don't want (inner mount will move up and down or in and out). The inner banana arm bushing should allow the trailing arm to rotate about the axis of the bolt that holds the arm in, but it should also allow the trailing arm to pivot. Lateral movement along the axis of that bolt or perpendicular to the axis of the bolt is unwanted....

Even for a street car, the spherical bearing is fine. I've installed our bearings on several cars that are used on the potholed and frost heaved roads of the midwest...no problems.

[Jandrews]

I think what Souk says makes sense here. So who makes spherical trailing arm bearings and where do you get them?


JA

[defcon65]

Oh - bushings. I thought this thread had something to do with the Pelican girls.

[Chuck Moreland]

For the reasons stated above, avoid the polygraphite type. They do not allow the degrees of freedom required for this point. The semi-rigid material pinches and binds, fighting the trailing arm as it moves through its arc. You can see this yourself if you try to align the rear, it fights every adjustment.

Further, they have no center sleeve to carry the load of the bolt. You will never get the bolt torqued properly because it is working against the semi-compliant polygraphite. And pinching it, binding it.

Go for factory rubber or monoballs.

[1972_911T]

Anyone know where you can get the monoball type trailing arm bearings from? ive been unable to find them on pelican.

Steve

[safe]

You arent looking in the right place then:
Look after:
Monoball Joints
Elephant Racing Front/Rear Monoball Cartridges
Elephant Racing Weather-Sealed Rear Monoball Cartridge Set, 911/912/930 1965-89 NEW! [Photo]
ERMP-2020901 $250.00

[1972_911T]

I can find monoball's but none listed as for use on the trailing arm joints. Just the OEM rubber or polygraphite bushings listed as for use with trailing arms.

Steve

[1972_911T]

Is this the right one for the trailing arm?

Rennline Rear Sealed Monoballs, Set of 2, Zinc, 911/911 Turbo (1965-89) REN-MB12-Z

Steve

[safe]

Yes, either that or the Elephant Racing one I listed above.

[Chuck Moreland]

Here ya go:
http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_SUSprf_pg19.htm#item18

[captainrb]

Here is something to think about. When removing the trailing arms with engine installed. You'll need to cut the bolts(easy-sawzall). But when you reinstall them the bolt head will need to be trimmed on one side to get them reinstalled or buy a trick bolt set up from Smart Racing(nice).
Now while you in there. When I did this project the steel arms were tossed and aluminum ones were use, with mono ball (for all the reasons others have pointed out). The weight difference is tremendous and easy way to get weight off your car pictorially un-sprung weight. also install new axial bearings. With the trailing arms in your hand any shop can properly press them into place

[North Coast Cab]

Go for the Elephant ones, I did and am very happy. AS for the bolt head issue I believe it depends on the car. For my Carrera I was able to get them out without dropping the motor. They were still a major PITA though. Chek those bolts before you tear into it. Also, I did one side with the banana arm still connected to a bunch of stuff on the car and one completely disconnected. Definitely fully remove the arm and then undertake the replacement. First side takes 1 1/2 hours, second under an hour.

John

[1972_911T]

The bolts isnt an issue my engine and trans are out, when putting it all back together how do you get a basic adjustment on the camber and toe settings? at least so its good enough to drive it for alignment.

Steve

[safe]

Do a search on home alignment, there is plenty of threads.

Search for Ray Scruggs on this forum.