Question: Broken cross member. Please input
 

I was under the car over the weekends again and found a crack on the cross member, where the torsion bar adjustment bolt is. At first I was freaked out but after laying there looking at it, I can't find it affect either safty nor performance at all.

I have to let you know that I am new to P, and don't really understand the whole torsion thing yet. To my eyes, the bolt is hold on by the torsion bar cap. The cap is hold on by the bolt. That little edge where it cracked doesn't really do anything, am I right? Must it (the cross member) is repalced? Or I can put some weld there? Or is it ok to leave it there?

Now, you can flame me all you want but if you know where I missed it at, please input.

Thanks.

http://doublehonline.dynalias.com/ca.../Broken_03.jpg

Is the cross member alloy of steel?

Either way it is an easy fix and can probably be done on the car. My steel one was badly damaged at this point when I stupidly used an over-length bolt and struck something on the road. Mine was so badly damaged that the tosion bar cap could be pulled off (the part your bolt is threaded through). I replaced it with an alloy version from an SC.

You are correct in so far that there is no real load there and it is unlikely to compromise the car at this time. However if (and I suspect it is) your cross member is alloy, the crack could work its way to a spot that could lead to a compromise in safety.

I am not sure but it color look like it's alloy, not steel.
When I first jack up my car, not too long ago, and saw the cross member, I was wondering my I can jack up the car at this cross member since it's "aluminum". Yes the aluminum cross member look and feel so week.

Alloy is much more brittle than steel (use a magnet and see). The problem that may occur is another blow to that bolt that could knock a 'tab' out behind where the bolt sits. This could lead to the cap popping off when the suspension is unloaded. The result would be a complete collapse of the suspension on that side - if you are getting along quickly at the time, that could be really bad.

"complete collapse" meaning that corner of the car will be on the ground? and I will have a free flight ticket to heaven? oh no.

Can it be welded with a small piece of metal to secure it in place? Or there is any fixed?

Thank you.

Shouldn't the set screw be resting on the yellow circled area? Maybe it is the beer affecting things...

Dave

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1145867079.jpg

You can certainly weld alloy. A good shop should be able to do it up on the hoist for you. Worst case, they may have to remove the cross member to weld as it is quite close to the fuel tank in some spots.

Is there a certain mig or tig weld or any other kind of welding machine I should request? Just in case.
Thank you.

MIG set up for alloy will be fine - A good welder will know precisely what needs to be done

Good luck

LMAO

From the picture, it appears that the car is lifted and supported by jack stands, thus the reason gap?

Anyway, not a bad time to upgrade the front suspension. IMHO, time to remove the crossmember, struts, etc. After cleaning the crossmember, have it welded. Then install new parts like ball joints, turbo tire rod ends, upgraded torsion bars (optional), new A-arm bushings / bearings, Bilsteins. After which, time for corner balance and align.

Anyone know a reasonable welder tech in Corona SCAL, which I can visit at lunch? Around 91 & 15.
A contact number is even better.

slodave,
car is on jack, and wheels are free fall :)

Jim,
Yes.
That's a lot of $$ and time which I am not ready yet (I mean I was not, if I have to do it now.

Thanks all you guys mucho.