advice needed to align rear toe...
 

Boy I hate to post this, LOL... but I need help with my rear wheel toe alignment.. I've dorked with everything (camber and toe eccentrics, and the two lock bolts thru the trailing arm and springplate were of course loosened) it seems, and I can't get them to toe in. The best I can get is just under 1/16th out each side. I have used strings, lasers, and aligned them to the chassis...all measurements are repeatable...from method to method as well.

The fronts were adjusted to zero with the sterring wheel centered, and each wheel referenced to the vehicle centerline.

It's a 73 chassis, with new WEVO SPS's on each side, Koni shocks new T bars and Elephant Racing Monoballs in new alum trailing arms.

Now I've raced my race car with damaged rear components, allowing the rear tires to change alignment each corner, and I got through it, and I can drive around a small toe out in the rear, but I'm taking the car to Lime Rock on Friday, and would perfer the toe to be zero. (Thats the prefered setting, correct?

Camber is about 1.2 deg neg left, 1.0 degree neg right. (Lime Rock is like a reversed oval, so more camber on the left would be good, but it moves the toe out)

Thanks for any insights...

Sounds like you need longer slots in the trailing arm end that the two bolts go through into the banana arm. Are you at the end of their travel? You could grind out some material to allow the banana arm to move further in.

thanks! And that is exactly what Tyson said when I called WEVO. I'm crunching to get the thing in the trailer for the track days, and I've got it so it's NEARLY zero, and with the Monoball Trailing arm bushing, I'm thinking I'll have less movement than a stock rubber version, so I'm going to drive it as is. When I get back I'll go for the whole enchilada.

Thanks for the spot on diagnosis.

Try a smaller bolt to confirm it helps before grinding.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146172031.jpg

Good idea. Let us know how it works for you.