Did the rack itself break, or just the retaining ring?

Emission, in the top picture, on the left side, there is a star tabbed retaining ring that is supposed to retain the bushing in place (RayB above says it is called a SEEGER ring). It looks like yours just popped out. Assuming the unguided rack did not chew up the aluminum rack housing, you should be able to fix it. Probably not a bad idea to install a rebuilt rack, but I would fix it if it were mine (can't turn down a good DIY challenge!).

RayB wins the "over the internet" diagnosis! This forum is awesome!

I see it, and it does look like it just popped out (and spewed everything behind it).

I thought about reassembling it, but with 139,000 on the rack (I have all the records on the car and nothing was ever touched on it), and considering I track the car, I think the safe (and long-term solution) is a re-built unit.

Yes, you guys are amazing! SmileWavy

Once I start pulling this apart, I will add to this thread to keep the future "searchers" informed.

One follow-up question...

When pulling my steering rack, what is the minimum I need to unhook/remove to get it out? Do I just have to disconnect the steering shaft in the smuggler's box, unbolt, and it will fall out?

You will need to remove the clamp that holds the upper rubber encased needle bearing (mine were were frozen pretty good, but luckily they broke free). Mine still has it's AC, so it is kind of cramped in that area. Loosen the u-joint just above the rubber/bearing. Obviously you need to disconnect the tie rods either at the rack, at the adjustment threaded joint (probably the easiest) or the ball joint end. If you have AC, you may need to unclamp and move out of the way an AC low pressure hose. I think you will also have to loosen the bolts to the aluminum cross member ( not a big deal) to provide enough room for your rack to manipulated out of it's home. I would try it first, but I doubt you will get it out without dropping the crossmember a little.

Thanks, I borrowed a tie rod tool too.

Someone mentioned that one part was easier to remove if I had weight on the wheels. Is that still the case, or does it matter?

I'd bet on Tim's diagnosis. The pinion housing and cover ( the big plastic black thing) have to came out. Drop the x-member enough but bear in mind that the large bolts which hold the x-member to the car also serve as a retainer for the aft a-arm sleeve. So...no, you don't want weight on the wheels. I'm sure this fix has been done many ways but I'm not seeing any advantage to weight on wheels.

Thanks Ray.

I won't be able to get to this until Wednesday... too many other projects right now.

UPDATE:

I finally got it all back together - by myself! :D

Everything went back pretty easily. Two tough areas are lining up the U-joint with the steering column as it comes up from down below (get a friend to help), and making sure the front sway bars are lined up so you can get the bolts for the front mounts back it.

I just need to take the car to an alignment shop so they can check the toe (it doesn't pull either way, but I want it right).

Thanks for the help!