Help with G50 Improved Operating Shaft & Bushing Kit
 

I purchased the G50 Improved Operating Shaft & Bushing Kit--the one that does not require drilling.

I removed the old shaft without issue and saw needle bearings falling on the floor (they were in good condition).

I thought no problem, this update kit has these bronze bushings that will go into the bell housing.

Well lo and behold the bushings are too large. The instructions say not to use them if not needed.

Does that mean I have to order new needle bearings now as they are scattered on the garage floor?

I am clueless why I paid money for this shaft that looks exactly like my old one. What is it updating?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146875629.jpg http://forums.pelicaparts.com/upload...1146875638.jpg

Needle bearing off old shaft

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146875646.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146875654.jpg

You can also see that the shaft does not fit the fork...see the gap in the plastic bushings. The diameter of the shaft is too small.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146876313.jpg

I am confused here Howard, I think the bushings go in the transmission housing. they should be the same size as the cups on the needle bearings. Someone might have used an update kit already too.

The replacement kit in my G50 may not be exactly the same as yours - but the parts look the same...

On my car, the bronze bushings are fit into the shifting fork.
The shaft slides through the ears in the trans bell housing and through the fork, and the keeper bolt and tab keep it all in place.

Here is a comparison of the needle bearing cup and the bushing. As you can see the bushing are larger and will not fit the housing.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1146876888.jpg

Did you buy the weltmeister shaft kit? The factory update kit uses needle bearings with a larger shaft. The larger shaft requires the shift fork with the larger bushings.

I have the factory update kit that required drilling and the new shift fork. I didn't know there was a shaft with the larger diameter for the shift fork but smaller diamter needle bushings.

I don't know who makes it but it billed as the no drill update.

If I'm not mistaken, the brass bushings take the place of the plastic ones in the clutch fork. I think the metal sleeves take the place of the needle bearings in the bell housing.

But I've only done one conversion, so I'm a little foggy on that kit. But I do specifically remember removing the plastic bushings from the fork and installing the brass ones.

Thank you Tyson. Makes sense now.

Whats the verdict anyone on this improved kit? My engine is out right now and I'm considering doing this, but if its not really an improvement don't want to spend $300 on the combined kit (no-drill kit and new fork).

Also, how hard is it to install- is now the time to do it with engine/trans. out of car, or could it be done easily enough at a later time with everything in the car?

Thanks!

I put this kit in my car and you need to remove the plastic bushings in the fork. Press the brass bushings into place on the fork. The other set of bushings are only used if the factory update has been done on the bell housing. You will have two pieces left over. You will find the shaft fits the holes on the housing. No more needle bearings using this kit.

MTBGUY

The engine needs to be dropped to do the update. The problem with the factory update is boring out the holes makes them weaker and there have been some problems with breakage. You can easily inspect it while it is out. If you can do the engine drop yourself then it is no big deal to wait.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1180300253.jpg

Thanks Michael! Looks like now is the time to do this- could you tell a difference in shifting after the upgrade?

Thanks

Does Pelican carry this brass bushing kit for a 90 964 c2?

My experience with the no-drill kit was not good, I soon replaced it with the Porsche drill out the housing kit (much better pedal response).

I attribute my pedal shaft failure to my delays in doing the real update, as the increased clutch effort puts a lot of strain on the shaft, and I drove like 150k miles before doing the update.

Chuck.H
'89 TurboLookTarga, 370k miles