How To Repair Crushed Oil Line on 3.2

[racertimc]

I noted before I purchased this 88 Carrera that the inboard oil line was crushed(PO must have not known where to jack), now as I'm fixing stuff it's time to tackle this. It seems to me that rather than buy a new oil line or try to find a used one that perhaps I could simply cut out the kink and use a rubber hose with four clamps. I'm I being silly? Probably.

This is not a track car and I'm on the coast that's why I've waited several weeks, besides I've been chasing wheels, mufflers and CAT by passes.

What do you experienced shade tree fit it yourself members say? Cheers

[Kemo]

if you can get the whole line out, you might be able to get it somewhat back into shape with a vise. Theorhetically you could do as you say, but I wouldnt feel comfortable with it.

Ideally, you can swap the whole line out with an Elephant finned oil line which will help lower temps.

Good luck.

[Dan in Pasadena]

I'm probably going to really open a can of worms by suggesting this, complete with "The search button is your friend" type responses but.......... couldn't you remove the line and drill a small hole in it for the purpose of pulling that dent out?, then get a QUALITY welder to braze it shut?

Yes, I know there would be burnt oil in there you don't want coursing through your car's bloodstream and it would be best to pressure check it afterward, but it seems like this "could" work. Of course, buying new or even used replacement oil lines would always be best.

[jbell959]

Do a search - there are a bunch of threads on this. The method that looked the most promising was to cap the ends and pressurize the pipe and heat up the bent area. Sounds like it may work but I haven't tried it. Good luck!

[Bill in OKC]

I wonder if one of those "paintless dent remover" guys could coax that dent out? They use dry ice and heat and ???? I saw a show where they made metal do mysterious stuff one time.

[rusnak]

whoa, that's a bad one. Why wouldnt you just replace it? Hot oil can reach 60-80 psi before the pressure relief kicked in. My own pressure relief lights up when the little needle hits 5 bar. Who would want the uncertainty of cutting, and brazing?

[greglepore]

There are a number of proposed fixes. I've fixed one as bad as that by simply removing the line, getting the area in question beaucoup hot with a propane torch, and then squeezing in a vice. Its not particularly pretty when done, but it does the job.

If you want to be a little more pro about it, you can make a "die" out of a piece of 2x, drill a hole the diameter of the pipe in it then slice it in half on a tablesaw.

[911pcars]

"whoa, that's a bad one. Why wouldnt you just replace it?"

When done properly, repairing a hole by brazing/silver soldering is not going to spring a leak. Replacing the line is possible too, but you may not have priced one recently ($372, courtesy PP). With all due respects to PParts, if it's repairable, why trash it?

Sherwood

[rusnak]

I replaced both when they were $450 and $490 each. I sorta think that the lower pricing supports changing them. On the other hand if they were water lines, I'd want to fix em. I noticed that the lines themselves move quite a bit to the point that the outer one on my 3.2 actually begins to angle over when it's hot.

[john walker's workshop]

the ding is too deep to squeeze out. it's concave now and would have to be above center or convex to respond well to squeezing. if i wanted to save it, i would remove the line, clean well, drill a hole opposite (on the other side of) the ding, a small hole, and use a hammer and punch to work it back into shape and then silver solder the hole. then clean and flush before using. possibly you could just work it beyond center and try the squeeze thing.

[Joe Bob]

I've had some success by removing the line pressurizing it....then heating the line and tapping it out with a brass hammer.

Of course the Elephant lines made by the FAMOUS Chuck Moreland are a great replacement......