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How to check ball join? Creaking noise. Snapping noise on front suspension.
This is regarding the front ball join where the arm connect to the shock. Does anyone know how to check to see if the ball join is still ok?
Why I ask? I hear/feel creacking noise once in a while at low speed while turning. Check several things and still can't tell where the problem is. Thanks. <font color="red"> Edit: 03/23/2008 DRACO A5OG came by today. After hearing the noise, he explained to me that it's is snapping noise. I agreed, it should be described as "snapping sound" rather then "creaking sound". Sorry everyone. We also layed down and play with the jack more carefully and found that the sound can be on either side of the front suspension, depend on which side we are jacking. It happens when the suspension compressed, meaning on jacking up, there is no noise. When leasing the jack, on the way down, a little after the wheel hit the ground, we can hear it and it is lound. When driving, first, it feel like it happen when you turn the steering wheel but that is not true. It happen when the suspension compress. On sharp turn, it sounds on the compress side. On freeway if the road surface is bad enough that the front compress, without turn, it sounds too. What we did today is adjusted front bearing, checked ball joint, test drove. Can anyone think of anything? Thanks to DRACO A5OG. </font> |
Re: How to check ball join?
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just kidding. You'll have up and down movement in the ball joint first. So if you can move the control arm up and down in relation to the strut, then they are tired. You may try pulling the boot and looking in to see if they are dry and have the tell-tale "red dust" of metal-on-metal wear from being dry. |
Thanks, will try it this weekends.
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Tried, didn't see any issue with the ball join (below front shocks)... well.. but I made some progresses while under there, adjust my steering rack and column since the column made bad scraping noise after the jump steer kit installed.
Good night. |
Hi everyone,
this was an old question but I never came back to it for a while. Several times I tried to look under there but couldn't find a way to lift the shock while holding the arm in still, or push the control arm down by hands while keep the shock still... to find out if there is any movement. Is there a trick on testing it? |
Have you checked the sway bar bushings? I had an awful creaking in the right front that I was convinced was a ball joint gone bad. Turned out to be a sway bar bushing. It's easy to check - just unbolt the sway bar drop links and see if the noise disappears. Much easier than changing a ball joint.
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I spray some lubrican into the bushing without result. Now, I don't know if the noise is from the ball join or not, but I have some play when I grap the tire both hands and shake. That can be the wheel bearing too but I tighted the bearing nut and there still some play. Now, I think it's time to test the ball join, if posible.
Thanks. |
Have you checked the A-arm (control arm) bushings?
It's a common source of squeaking noise, not just in 911 but also in my other Mercs. Spray enough lubricant onto it and see if the noise decreases. If new ones are needed, there are a lot of discussion of the replacement choice here. |
rnln
Do you not like the letter "t"? (Ball join(t) (lubrican(t) :-) I have heard bad bearings make make noise as you describe. Hope this helps... |
alniki,
No I have not check the A arm bushing because I affraid that I will mess up the setup if I take them off. I did spray several times, silicon lubricant and WD40 without help. Nine9six, I have bad spelling problem :) Thanks. I suspect the bearing too but I will check more into it when a friend has time to help. On other car, I had bearing problem in the past. The noise is more like grinding noise, not creaken noise. But maybe it's different each car. Also, I am not sure, will check between bearing and ball joint. What I really want to know is if there is a way to lift the shock, or push the arm to see the play betweenthe shock and the ball joint. Thanks all. |
I used to spray Triflow synthetic lubricant on the suspension parts, but now my favorite is Wurth Rubber Care on the a-arm bushings, sway bar bushings, and control arm boots, cv boots etc.
I suspect your problem may be a worn or seized shock piston or tube bushing, since it makes noise when you are turning. |
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Actually it's getting worse now, after a long time. Now, if I hit an uneven road surface, which makes the front end compress suddent and quick, it makes one clicking noise. |
Updated info on original post, red text.
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You are quite Welcome Rnln!!! Thank you for helping me with the e-Brake again :D
We definitely need to put your baby on a lift to check out her suspension properly. LOL, |
rnln,
What is the mileage on your car/suspension? Ball joints are fairly stout, and many times will outlast shocks and struts. With that said, I would still recommend replacing the ball joints if you are refreshing the shocks and struts. |
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Is it posible that the tie rods or the internal of the steering rack can make this noise? |
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I am assuming you have determined the noise to be comming from the front suspension assy. If it were me, I would chalk the rear wheels and put the front on jacks. Then I would actuate the suspension with a floor jack to replicate the sound. Each time I would grasp a different part of the suspension assy. in an attempt to determine the origin of the noise. Another thought is to remove one of the struts. This can be done without affecting your alignment. Then, actuate the A-arm assy and check for range of motion and the noise. Also try to actuate the removed strut to see if the noise originates from the strut. Of course there is always the possibility that the noise cannot be heard unless under some type of load... If you are pondering replacement, lots of guys here like the combo of heavy duty Bilstein struts in the front, with Bilstein sport shocks in the rear. Personally, I am happy with sports on all four corners. You can purchase and install Bilstein strut inserts for your Boge bodies. Good luck in your quest to isolate the noise you are experiencing... Paul |
It sounds like the gland nut that holds the strut insert in place might have come loose. When that happens, you'll hear a load clank or knocking sound when the suspension is compressed and released. You need to remove the dust cover to check it. If it is loose, you can put some blue loctite on the threads and then use a pipe wrench to tighten the nut securely. Do a search on "gland nut" for more detailed instructions. Given the age of the inserts, you might want to just replace them while you have things apart.
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Nine9six,
I don't know what "chalk" mean. I guess you mean jeck up the rear and put on jack stand? Then take off the front trust and do the test that way, so I can isolate the front shock to see if I still hear the snapping sound? Good idea, I will do that. C4 Pazzo, I just searched and know what the gland nut is. I will check them. Thank you all. |
Bad steering coupler? Possible.
Clunks over bumps? If so, try this. Car parked level, not running, wheels centered, turn steering wheel quarter turns left then right, do you hear clicking noise from front/center? |
911s55,
No clunks (nor snapping) over the pump. I guess because I go very slow over pumps. Or maybe this sond only produced when suspension is complressed on one side and not the other which going over a pump will compress both side equally? If I drive on the road at normal speed or fast on freeway, I will hear this snapping sound even slightly up the grove. The sound will be on either side (left or right) according to the grove. Yes, I did try that turning steering wheel test and sometimes I do hear it, sometimes I don't. Most of the time I don't. Many times testing it this way, I decided the sound won't be produced by turning steering wheel without moving the wheel. 1 question, do you know if the steering coupler is bad, at which point the sound will produce? Suspension compressed, released, or when turning only? Do you know how/where can I check this coupler on an 87? |
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Hope this helps |
I plan on checking the gland nuts and everything else around there, again, this weekends. Do I really have to take the top nut off and pull the strut out to lift the dust cover up enough to view the gland nut?
Why do you call it the "wiper/seal"? Do you mean the nut screwing into the shock (housing) to hold the strut in the shock, or there is anything else I don't know yet? |
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And yes... you do have to remove the top nut and pull the strut out to lift the dust cover up enough to view the gland nut. Doing this will not affect your alignment. |
... just the same as replacing the strut then. Why not pull the strut off to know what I am having. Thanks Nine9six
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You may want to check the condition of the "I" shaped cross-member that carries the steering rack - mine had a fracture in it that made a sound very similar to your description.
Jerry M '78 SC |
Jerry,
will do. thanks. Maybe I ask where proximately your fracture located? |
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Good luck, Jerry M '78 SC |
I had similar crack but only on the thin/small piece (aluminum) to block the adjuster bolt, not accross the bar. I had it welded already. But I will check the whole bar again.
Thanks. |
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