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Registered
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 679
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Hydraulic tensioner Install
the car has 70 K mi.and I have reviewed 101project info, bently manual ,and Waynes 911 Engine Re Build book to prepare to install the Hydraulic tensioners.
I have dry fitted the oil lines and small oil line bracket jigsaw puzzle(Waynes 911 Engine Re Build book shows it very clearly) reviewed position of ramps and i will also install the oil line restrictors which supposedly reduce foaming and increase oil pressure. Hpopefully this will not induce any oil leaks in the case ??? The topic of "while you're in there" ...removing the cam wheel sprockets and replacing the o-ring and paper gasket behind them came up. Question is, Is this necessary and then worth the effort to reset timing which i am not competent enough to do. What do you guys think? I am not inclined to go this deep. Thanks
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HB Kramer (4 sneaks and 6 airheads): 79 911SC Coupe (sunroof delete) (2 sneaks and 2 airheads): BMWS: R12GS(a) R90S, and some old British iron as well. |
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05-24-2006, 04:29 AM
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Posts: 305
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If you remove the cam sprockets, you disturb the cam timing. If you do that job (replace o-ring and gasket), you must reset the timing.
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05-24-2006, 04:35 AM
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If you don't remove the sprockets, you need to have a wrench on them and make sure they don't jump when you remove the tensioners.
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2014 Cayman S (track rat w/GT4 suspension) 1979 930 (475 rwhp at 0.95 bar) |
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05-24-2006, 04:52 AM
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Kantry Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: N.S. Can
Posts: 6,822
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Don't touch the cam sprockets.
As it advises in Wayne's Tech Article, move the engine to TDC before you start. This will reduce the tension on the valve train. Use either wedges between the case and the chain on the cam sprockets to prevent the chain from slipping off or simply use a zip tie to keep the chain from loosening when you remove the tensioner. Wayne indicates the distributor will have to be removed, but I replaced the oil lines without having to do that. That part is not a hard job. I wouldn't mess with the rest unless you were tearing down the top end. Les
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Best Les My train of thought has been replaced by a bumper car. |
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05-24-2006, 06:03 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
Posts: 22,435
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that's TDC #1. very important. if the thrust plates are not leaking, you don't need to mess with them.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 |
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05-24-2006, 07:08 AM
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Join Date: May 2005
Location: Eastern Pa.
Posts: 679
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John, David, 125,old e THANKS !!!
I will not venture in to replace o rings and gaskets( i may be asking for trouble)as my engine case is dry. As far as the thrust plates?? i will have to do some homework here since I do not know how to inspect them. Also, I just checked 101 projects and Wayne does advise TDC but not TDC on #1 Thank You John, and why is this impt?? Bruce
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HB Kramer (4 sneaks and 6 airheads): 79 911SC Coupe (sunroof delete) (2 sneaks and 2 airheads): BMWS: R12GS(a) R90S, and some old British iron as well. |
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05-24-2006, 07:41 AM
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Kantry Member
Join Date: Feb 2001
Location: N.S. Can
Posts: 6,822
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If I recall John's post from last week, TDC #1 relieves some of the strain on the valve train.
Les
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Best Les My train of thought has been replaced by a bumper car. |
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05-24-2006, 08:52 AM
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1979 Porsche 930 3.4
