Hey Thrown Hammer,

my hat is off to you in keeping up the Porsche standards in No. Indiana.

Kuel: How do you know when you've added enough compressor oil to the 134a (ND Compressor), and do you recommend the refrigerants with o-ring conditioner, or the straight refrigerant? My apologies to the others, I don't mean to hijack this thread.

On the ac oil mama P published a suggested amount of oil to to put in for each component however I don't recall the hoses being noted, and their list is pretty close to the auto ac industry suggested amounts, for example P lists:
Compressor 2 oz
Evap 1.6 oz
Condensers .8 oz each
Drier .4 oz

Depending upon what you read or how old the fart is that is writing you might gather:
Compressor 2-4 oz
Evap 1 oz
Condensers 1 oz
Drier 1 oz

So the recommendations are close enough. But they don't address the 40 feet of hose of which two lay under the car.

I can say that from what we have done over the years if you were to do a totally fresh install or even just the hose compressor and drier, usually 6 oz works just fine.
Always better to have too much oil than too little.

"Conditioners" or "revitalizers" are great for the scalp.
I use them all the time and they make my head of hair look 10 years younger. However, I would not recommend these monkey oils for your ac system. MAC Air (mobile air conditioning society) did a report a year or so ago on "sealants" and such and stated "stay away", they clog up the system. To get a good idea, find a sink or drain where some on is using these hair tonics and you will find sludge in the trap. Same with the AC system.

And, when an elastomer is going south it is going south, nothing is going to put years back into an oring (alike power steering rack sealants, they don't work).

Hey Shawn

First off did you put 134a fittings on the low side and high side valves? If not that a NO NO. The next person that service the car if you ever sell it will not know that the system was converted.

If you did, it must have been a hell of time getting them to fit. I need to remove the a/c compressor just to install a regular set of R12 gauge when I service my a/c.

When you open the stem valves to gain access into the system you don't crank them all the way open or else you do what they call front seat the valve. When you crank it all the way back to close the valve it is known as back seat the valve. You want to be somewhere in the middle so that you have access to the system.

I would have keep with the R12 refrigerant if I was going to use the old Yorkie compressor instead of upgrading to a wobble plate compressor.

How far is Warsaw Indiana from the Windy City?

I believe it is the opposite. To lock up your service manifold so that you isolate the yellow hose from the system (Vacuum or charge) you need to turn your service valves fully CW.

"Ruffer", to clarify:

On a York compressor, the sevice manifold valves attached to the compressor have a valve seat at the end of the shaft.

Turning the square shaft on the <b> compressor's </b> service valves CW moves the seal on the shaft inside against the seat inside the manifold valve.... which closes off the passage between the compressor port and the a/c hose (either high side or low side). Turning the square shaft CCW opens the passage between the compressor port and the a/c hose.

If you were to remove one from a York and look inside:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149078748.jpg

<i>3) Open the service manifold nuts "nearly" fully CCW. I say nearly full CCW because I recall on some if you go full CCW it will close again. </i>


<b>RECLARIFIED</b>
5) Lock up your service "gauge manifold" valves fully <b>CW </b>and turn off the vacuum pump.
6) Take a small tip marker and mark on the face of the low side gauge where the needle is, should be close to -30 in.
7) Go have a Becks or cup of java and wait 20 mins, not more than <b> two </b> Becks.
8) After 20 mins. <b>REOPEN </b>(turning CCW) the service gauge manifold valves fully see if the gauge needle on the low side moved back toward "0". If not and it is still where you made the mark then you have a good "gross leak" check. If if moved back toward "0" then you have a leak somewhere between the service guages and the cars system.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149079657.jpg

Kuehl

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149078748.jpg

There are no "Schrader valve" in a York Comprssor as fitted to a Porsche 911. The Schrader valve identified in picture is just a flare fitting that you attach a hose with a flare fitting to.

If you crank the stem all the way to the top, the round disk as shown in the picture will be up against the valve seat preventing refrigerant from entering the compressor, or preventing a vacuum pump from evacuating the system. The round disk must be somewhere between fully close and fully open to allow you to service the system. Fully open is where you want to be after you have completed servicing the system.

Fully close is when you pump down the system so that the refrigerant is pumped into the condenser and you can remove the compressor from the system by removing the stem valves from the compressor.

In your other post you inform Shawn to "Lockup" the manifold by turning the manifold valves CCW which is incorrect, which I pointed out to you and which you corrected in your later post.

If Shawn had turned the High side valve CCW as you advise to (Lockup the manifold), while the engine was running and a can of refrigerant attached to the gauge set, the can could have exploded.

When giving advice to DIYer you need to reread the posting so that the information that you are giving is correct.

I would hate to see someone hurt because of typo in the instruction.

<I>"There are no "Schrader valve" in a York Comprssor"</I>
When we, (I) say Schrader Valve, "I" used the term in a visual sense as most refrigerant service ports we see on compressors (excluding R134a adapters) frankly look like August Schrader's valve stem originally designed for tires. I guess in a semantical sense I am guilty as charged for using the term "schrader". However I'd rather take the bullet and direct the do-it-yourselfer to look for something they may be more comfortable of finding rather than saying the refrigerant service valve perse.

However, to be more concise, "YES" there are Yorks out there with ... complete "schrader" valves having a "poppet " valve inside. Why this unexpected phenomena you may ask? Unmöglich ! Well new OEM service flange valves are expensive or difficult to find. So you have aftermarket. And, below is a picture of the same service flange valves. If you look at the valve on the right it has an "valve core" aka "poppet" which makes it a full fledged Schrader Valve.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1149169708.jpg

<i>If you crank the stem all the way to the top, the round disk as shown in the picture will be up against the valve seat preventing refrigerant from entering the compressor, or preventing a vacuum pump from evacuating the system. The round disk must be somewhere between fully close and fully open to allow you to service the system. Fully open is where you want to be after you have completed servicing the system. </i>
Again, Yes and No.
Assuming the service flange valve does not have a schrader, when the square stem shaft is turned fully CCW the seal is pulled away from the valve seat on the opposite end opening the passage between the vehicle's hose connection and the compressor's top flange port.
I think we noted more than enough that when opening the valve CCW you should not drive the square valve stem all the way CCW as it limits the flow passage to the "schrader valve" (aka 1/4" flare service hose port). However there is no formal or functional valve seat designed on this side of the shaft (between the 1/4" flare and internal shaft) that provides adequate sealing to shut off the passage from inside the service flange valve and the hose from the service gauge manifold hoses, though flow is nearly cut down to a dribble as we noted. When you turn the square shaft fully CW the seal on the end of the shaft seats to close off the passage between the vehicle's hose connection and the compressor's top flange port.

<i>In your other post you inform Shawn to "Lockup" the manifold by turning the manifold valves CCW which is incorrect, which I pointed out to you and which you corrected in your later post. If Shawn had turned the High side valve CCW as you advise to (Lockup the manifold), while the engine was running and a can of refrigerant attached to the gauge set, the can could have exploded. </i>
hmmmmm..... let's see.
1st post to warn the DIYer reads:
"You are NOT connecting the hose from the refrigerant can to the "high" side connection on the compressor (compressor to condenser)
with the engine running... right! "

further post reads:
"The York has "service valves" on the hose manifolds attached to the compressor. You connect your service hoses to the R12 ports on the manifold. The "service valves" will block off in the manifold between R12 port and compressor. Turned fully CW closes, turning CCW opens."
Well yeah, a bit of confusion here. I guess we should have stuck with the Becks rather than the java.

further post reads:
"3) Open the service manifold nuts "nearly" fully CCW. I say nearly full CCW because I recall on some if you go full CCW it will close again."

further post reads:
"5) Lock up your service "gauge manifold" valves fully CCW and turn off the vacuum pump."
I agree, we'll change this to read CW. However had the DIY gone CCW and turned off the pump, before he finished his first Becks the system would have gone to atmosphere rather quickly as most pumps and service sets do not have a shut off vavle between the pump the service gauge set. And that post did not include the complete steps to operating the service gauge valves for the charging procedure. Again high side pre-warning was stated in first post.

<i>When giving advice to DIYer you need to reread the posting so that the information that you are giving is correct. I would hate to see someone hurt because of typo in the instruction.<.i>

I agree as well, and I appreciate your kind critique.

I just hope "we" have in a constructive way helped this DIYer.

Kuehl's right. On my York, the low-side (suction) backseat valve system had a Schrader valve. This confused me at first because it's not needed presuming that the backseat valve is OK.

Thanks for the receiver/drier, by the way, kuehl.

Brian

Not a problem,
just remember that the "backseat valve" or by CCW all the way
"may not" provide a perfect seal between your service gauges and the "schrader" "1/4" port.