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Join Date: Jan 2005
Location: Madrid, SPAIN
Posts: 1,197
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Wheel stud bolts. Grade?

anyone know what grade should be the wheel studs?

I need long studs for my car and have a friend who can make them for free, but need to know which material to use.

Thanks
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Mario

'76 911 w/'97 3.6 Euro Vario Engine & Turbo body kit & TPC Supercharger

'07 997 GT3
Old 05-30-2006, 01:40 PM
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Mario,
It is tempting to use a set of "free" bolts. Particularly since the proper part may be difficult to get in Guatemala.
These bolts are not made on a lathe. They are cold formed. The threads are rolled, not cut.
As simple as they at first look, there is plenty of engineering and process used to produce these parts.
If at all possible try to get the proper wheel studs.
Is there a high duty or tax applied to imported parts?
I think I paid around four dollars each for longer studs for my wheels.
If I can help you get them, let me know what you need.
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'76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's.
'85 911 Carrera, stock, just painted, Orient Red
Old 05-30-2006, 02:00 PM
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Thanks Doug, sonds like good advice.

Where did you get your? I got quote for more than double what you mentioned...a piece.

I do have to pay duties and shipment but guess will have no choice.

The guy I mentioned manufactures studs, bolts, and spring, but I am not sure which process (and material) he uses. He fabricates this type of bolt for other cars (they look very similar, but..)

Thanks again
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Mario

'76 911 w/'97 3.6 Euro Vario Engine & Turbo body kit & TPC Supercharger

'07 997 GT3
Old 05-30-2006, 02:13 PM
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Mario,

The wheel studs are DIN/ISO Grade 10.9. I also don’t recommend anything other than Factory Original or OEM. There used to be “no-name” knock-offs that were turned parts. They were defective by design.

The head of the stud should have a noted hardware manufacturer's logo forged in place (Verbus, etc.)

Best,
Grady
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:19 PM
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In the early days, Porsche snuck parts (even single spark plugs) across the border to get the first 356's built. Inspired??

If you did get caught with contraband bolts, what would they do to you? Check to see if they were hollowed out for drugs, no doubt...
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Old 05-30-2006, 02:24 PM
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Yeah, the only problem is that I will have to go there to bring them myself??.....cheaper to pay the duties!!

Anyone coming to Guatemala anytime soon??:-)
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Mario

'76 911 w/'97 3.6 Euro Vario Engine & Turbo body kit & TPC Supercharger

'07 997 GT3
Old 05-30-2006, 02:41 PM
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work up some vacation packages - each of us can bring one in each pocket...
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Old 05-30-2006, 04:30 PM
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Wheel Studs

Mario,

I have ten (10) new wheel studs (51 mm long) available. I was planning to install spacers but decided against it. These could be shipped to you as 'samples' or gift. Send reply to ATD911@hotmail.com.

Tony
Old 05-30-2006, 05:38 PM
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Tony,

Thanks a lot, but I am looking for 100mm studs. I have 1" spacers and the 51mm would be too short.

Thanks again,
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Mario

'76 911 w/'97 3.6 Euro Vario Engine & Turbo body kit & TPC Supercharger

'07 997 GT3
Old 05-31-2006, 05:49 AM
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Mario,




I would use only brand name wheel studs (blue). The one
on the right is the earlier DIN spec and the one on the left
is the later ISO spec. Note the shape of the rolled (cold
formed) threads. They are not sharp at the top of the
thread or at the root. There is a definite radius at each.

Any wheel stud longer than about 50 mm should have an
unthreaded shank (between red arrows). The threads
should never extend the entire length of the stud. This
is an indication of an inferior aftermarket stud. As the
wheel studs get longer, the unthreaded shank gets longer
and the threaded portion stays roughly the same.

You should do some careful measuring to get the exact
right wheel stud length. Too long and you risk the lug
nut getting to the unthreaded shank. Too short and the
wheel stud won’t go through the nut the minimum of
about two turns.

Porsche only uses name brand lug nuts also. They have
the manufacturer’s code forged into them (yellow arrows).
These are raised markings, not stamped into the metal.
There is an earlier lug nut used through 1967. It has a
smaller OD.

The lug nuts are softer metal than the wheel studs and
are designed to be damaged first. This way you can
simply replace a nut that won’t spin on with your fingers.
I carry a brass wire “toothbrush”, a metric thread file
and male and female thread chasers (not thread cutting
tap & die) to keep the hardware functioning correctly. I
have a new set of wheel studs and lug nuts standing by.

I use WD-40 to prevent rust and wipe off any excess.
For street 911s I use moly grease.

Best,
Grady
Old 05-31-2006, 07:18 AM
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