Busted Shift Linkage
 

Alright everyone said replacing the bushings is an easy fix to sloppy shifting. I waited for the bushings, and anxiously went for the rplacement tonight. Is everyone nuts or am I going about this the wrong way. I couldn't get the pin out to save my life, and when I used excessive force, crack!!!!!!!

Now I hope to get another shift coupler from a salvage guy I know, and I gotta ask how does that pin come out, and furthermore how would i put it back in without trashing the new bushings?

And if I have to buy new is it worth the extra $100 for the WEVO?

Thanks:mad:

You have to do it carefully, I used a deepwell socket to support the outside and gently tapped the pin with a hammer to drive it out. I reversed the procedure to install it. A shop press would probably work as well.

I used a hydraulic press, which is also useful for pressing the bearing races back in.

Being a newbie and reading about this particular problem in several posts, I chickened out and bought a complete coupler. Actually was not that much more expensive than buying only the bushings.

I actually lucked out R&D Auto in Albany, NY great guy, refurbed one for me today on the spot with brass bushings. It feels tight I'll let you know how it works after I get it in the car tonight.

Sweet, smooth and tight. Who needs WEVO? Also nice alignment trick, put the transmission and shifter in 3rd, and line up the linkage and tighten. It worked great no place it left turn counter clockwise yadayadayada.

You should never crack the aluminium coupler if done the right way. The pin is only pressed into the metal splined peice and it is free to rotate and the bush,therefore only place the metal splined bit a vise and tap out the pin with a punch. Don't hold the aluminium peice or it will crack.