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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Chicago
Posts: 18
Fuel accumulator by-pass

How long will I get away with by-passing my fuel accumulator?
Mine started leaking. I tried to just plug the hole in the bottom with some epoxy, but it still leaks. I needed to test the engine, (I had just finnished a valve reset and wanted to test for oil leaks on the gaskets), so I just by-passed the damn thing. Car seems not to notice it's absence. Is this a common practice? Will I suffer some failure down the road?

Old 12-25-2006, 11:12 AM
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Join Date: Mar 2001
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a possible hot start problem is all.
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Old 12-25-2006, 12:07 PM
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Thats what I figured. Since this is my "winter beater", Hot starts won't be a problem. I put the screw back in the bottom of the accumulator with epoxy, but it didn't hold. Should I have used something else? I can't believe there is that much pressure inside. Is there a cheaper fix than a $120 replacement?
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Old 12-25-2006, 12:16 PM
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sure, they should be dirt cheap on the used parts forum. a WTB post should turn one up. they do eventually start with sufficient cranking. it holds pressure against the fuel pump check valve to retain residual pressure for a while, for easy hot starting.
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Last edited by john walker's workshop; 12-25-2006 at 02:53 PM..
Old 12-25-2006, 02:50 PM
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I have bought several used ones, several have turned out bad, one good. The diaphragm ages and leaks over time I guess. FWIW if its leaking pluggin it wont help with hot start. Same as a bypass.
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Old 12-25-2006, 02:52 PM
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Thanks for the info. My 76 911 gets neglected until winter. The damn thing runs so hot that I only feel comfortable using in in the winter. It's the only "70's" car I have thats galvinized, so I can justify giving it some winter use.
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1976 Triumph TR6
Old 12-25-2006, 06:55 PM
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sporto,
PM me, I've got a good accumulator I don't need.

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'76 911S 2.7, webers, solex cams, JE pistons, '74 exhaust, 23 & 28 torsion bars, 930 calipers & rotors, Hoosiers on 8's & 9's.
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Old 12-25-2006, 07:13 PM
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