Do I need Wheel bearings??

artisticent · 06-10-2006, 11:02 PM

On my 77 911 the rear pass side hub feels loose with the E brake off. If I hold the rotor and lug studs it has play in it. Everything moves including the nut in the middle that the wheel bearing would slide on to. I can see the rotor move and the half shaft. The caliper and the back parts all stay firmly in place. Am i missing some bolt or is it the wheel bearing??
Thanks
Nathan

FYI I bought this car just after the motor was removed from a perfectly running car. I have now installed another motor and just realized this problem. The car was running well and it does seem unlikely the wheel bearings would be faulty so I am inclined to believe I have not attached something to hold this on tightly.

88911inga · 06-11-2006, 03:56 AM

art, just finished doing the bearings on mine, so my first step would be to checkk the axle nut first. You'll be best off with a 3/4 drive breaker and 32mm socket. If you can't tighten it any then yeah, your bearings need help. If it's been this way for a while, I'd replace it anyway. The bearings are only 46 dollars here @ P-can and I can pass along the recipe for a press I made for under $20 from Lowes. If you buy the actual tools, you're looking @ $200. Good luck, Brad

TCB · 06-11-2006, 04:34 AM

I'd be interested in your recipe for the wheel bearing press. I made one for my Jetta but I'd be interested in seeing yours..

Terry

88911inga · 06-11-2006, 03:34 PM

TCB, Let me figure out how to past pics and I will get them up. As for parts; slide hammer hub puller: standard hub puller with 1 ft 1/2 threaded rod thru center, a 1/2 x 11" pvc pipe sleeve over the threaded rod, and a 10lb cast iron dumbell plate w/ the small hole. All this is held together by double washers on the hub puller end and at the end of the PVC sleeve. Use the weight as the slide and it works quick.
Bearing press: A 2" galvanized steel pipe cap w/ a 1- 1/4" steel pipe cap set inside, (This will take a little grinding to flatten the top of the 1-1/4" cap to get a good fit inside the 2" without rocking. Once you get them to mate without rocking, get a good flat surface with some 60 grit sand paper and make the bottoms even and flush. Use duct tape to wrap the 1-1/4 to get a tight fit in the 2". Next drill a 5/8" hole dead center and finally grind off the outsides of the 2" to get and exact fit in the back of the trailing arm), a 3" sch 40 coupling with a 3" to 1-1/2" insert bushing in it and a small dumbell clamp in the 1-1/2 end(The concave sides let it center itself well.) Through this anothee 1ft piece of 5/8 threaded rod with a locknut and dual gr 8 washers on one end and a grade 8 nut and 2 gr 8 washers on the other.
With some understanding of how the hubs and bearings are pressed in/ removed, it all becomes apparent. I used the instructions @ http://vista.pca.org/sch/tech_articles/rear_bearing_911/911_wheel_bearing.htm. When you see these, you'll know how thw pieces will be used. Once again, I'll try and get pictures soon. If any questions, let me know. Hope this helps,Brad

TCB · 06-11-2006, 04:39 PM

Brad
Thanks for the description. It sounds very similar to the wheel bearing press I made for my Jetta but I didn't think of using the pipe caps. That sounds pretty slick.. and ya the link doesn't work..

Terry

mppickett · 06-11-2006, 05:11 PM

Try the URL without the period at the end:
http://vista.pca.org/sch/tech_articles/rear_bearing_911/911_wheel_bearing.htm

Thanks for the tip, Brad.