G50 clutch won't disengage...please help
 

Hi again.

I pulled the engine out of the car to replace the throwout bearing and input shaft seal to my G50 gearbox. At the same time I had the pressure plate machined to remove some minor marking from a previous clutch plate problem. I've also have the master cylinder and slave cylinders reconditioned and the release fork bushes replaced.

Upon initial reinstallation of the engine the clutch wouldn't disengage so I pulled the engine out, checked everything and put it back in after confirming all was installed correctly.

The clutch won't disengage at all.

I can start the car in neutral but can't get it in gear when pushing the clutch pedal. I've tried starting the car in gear with the clutch pedal pushed and the car moves.

I've also inspected the slave cylinder when pushing the clutch pedal and the release fork is clearly moving and pulling the release bearing (you can see the clutch pressure plate splines being pulled also).

Any assitance is appreciated!

Anyone....

Have you bled the slave cylinder?

Thanks for your reply.
Yes, I've done it 3 times so far. No air is coming out as such.

Just bled the system again. Still no joy.

Some obvious ones....

can you see the actual fork move?
can you see the pressure plate destort as the fork moves?
could you have installed your TO bearing incorrectly?

From what you have described so far it sounds a bit like the fork is not engaging with the TO bearing or perhaps your rebuilt slave isnt moving far enough, air in the system would also cause this

good luck.

Is this an issue? From service manual.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150216311.jpg

Try adjusting the master cylinder rod length, as well as the rubber pedal stop on the floorboard.

I replaced my master last year and had a similar problem with the new master. It was difficult to get into gear because the clutch wasn't fully disengaging (I installed a new clutch disc, housing, T/O bearing, fork, flywheel, pilot bearing, slave,........ the whole kitchen sink in 2000 around 10K miles ago) and I was crunching gears- especially driving hard on the track. Pretty disappointing to have the new master performing worse than the old.

I removed the master and re-checked, adjusted the pushrod length. Also adjusted the eccentric cam bolts on the pedal linkage. Things are better now. I will add that the adjustments to the clutch linkage/hydraulics appear to be pretty sensitive. The smallest adjustments make a difference since the amount of movement in the clutch housing is quite small.

HI car 3.2 or 3.6 ?, clutch with dual mass flywheel?, clutch center plate fixed or sprung/rubber, did the gearbox slid on to the engine easily, and the clutch fork located in the release bearing OK to fit the pivot shaft and bearings,and was the flywheel re-surfaced or as you noted the pressure plate,(never had a pressure plate re-surfaced, always fitted a new one)
poss; center plate in wrong way round (has been done before), or there is a issue with the pressure plate, if the hydraulic side is OK.

regards mike

Hi,

the clutch setup is 3.6L turbo 240mm, sprung center, gearbox slid easily onto engine, clutch for located fine to release bearing and pivot shaft slid in easy, flywheel resurfaced last year, understood with regards to resurfacing the pressure plate but was only a lick.

The whole lot appears to be moving ok but still isn't disengaging.

I've re-bled the system yet again and re-adjusted the master cylinder rod to get more throw out of the pedal.

I'm removing the master cylinder and slave cylinder tonight and am having them inspected tomorrow. Maybe installing a new master and slave cylinder is on the cards?

The slave cylinder actuates a fixed rod and I'm going to have a look at installing an adjustable rod in lieu.

All seems strange as this was all working prior to removal (even with the circlip retaining the centre of the throwout bearing failing). Mind you, there was a problem getting the gearbox into 5th when driving...

Is all extremely frustrating....

Reub,

FWIW, I have a tech article on replacing the clutch on a NA 87-89 G50 car. Send me your email address and I will fwd it to you.

Also, please update your bio so we can read your location and what year car you have.

Cheers Jim. PM sent with email address.

I've just tried something before pulling out the master and slave cylinders. I've limited the return of the clutch release fork so to preload the release bearing. I now have greater throw with the throw out at it's maximum throw (almost touching the pressure plate). The clutch still doesn't disengage.

I'm guessing this points to the pressure plate then? Or is there potentially a selector issue within the gearbox?

Thanks again.

HI just been reading the posts, you have a std flywheel with a turbo type clutch, the gear box went on the engine OK, case to case no prob, if this is all correct the only thing i can think of without coming and looking at it is one of the rollers in the spigot bearing has come out and jammed the input shaft, is there any way you can check to see if the center plate is free when you have the clutch operated, through i hole in the bell housing??

regards mike

I'll have a look. I did however check this bearing prior to the install and also when the engine was removed the second time to inspect everything.

Clutch plate won't turn with the clutch operated. Does this point to the pressure plate?

HI will the plate move at all, front to back, not round, if you can get front to back movement the pressure plate is coming away OK, if the center plate will then not spin the input shaft is poss jammed, or the pressure plate is not releasing square, poss not bolted up square/seated OK on the flywheel. The wheels will turn in neutral??, if yes the box is OK and the input shaft is been driven by the engine, even when the clutch is operated.

regards mike

I will check this all on the weekend when I pull the engine again.

Thanks to everyone for their assistance.

Thanks to Jim for forwarding the tech article to me.

A friend has compiled a PDF and has it available on his website

http://www.offroadvw.net/tech/911%20Clutch%20Job.pdf

This was posted a few months ago. The had the same issue and found that the clutch was stuck on the flywheel.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=265990&highlight=clutch +disengage

Thanks for the reply. I found this post too. Not the case in my instance unfortunately...will keep you posted though.

Cheers