Electrical problems

Jon Merck · 06-14-2006, 05:19 PM

Well had the altenator rebuilt and new regulator. Installed and I still have the same problem. Altenator light stays on brightly and for some reason the EGR light is staying on too. While driving the engine misfires bad at 3500-4000 rpm. If I turn off the car it will not restart until boosted. I checked the voltage at the battery and only shows 12v. I rechecked all grounds and all connections made after engine drop last week. Battery was checked at Auto Zone and is good.

Any ideas? I got a DE this weekend and got to get her going...

DUK · 06-14-2006, 05:27 PM

Jon, It sounds like wiring somewhere. Start at the beginning (battery) and work your way from there. When I pulled the wiring harness off my alternator, there were about 10 breaks and bare wires. Just a suggestion and I'm sure you've probably tried this, but try another battery. I've seen alot of things tested at autozone that were bad. Could be a broken plate or something that doesn't show up without vibration. Hopefully I'll see ya Sat. at Rockingham.

Jon Merck · 06-14-2006, 05:34 PM

Yeah, To compound things this looks like it has been rewired and I can't use the wire colors to trace a line. So I'm kinda shooting in the dark.
If I don't get something done you might see a Ford F250 (big pig!) on track...

DUK · 06-14-2006, 05:36 PM

Hey, we can always try out my wife's new car.

Jon Merck · 06-14-2006, 05:41 PM

What did she get a GT3?

Jon Merck · 06-14-2006, 06:17 PM

Just put a known good battery in...checked while running 11 volts.

I guess it has to be the regulator? Anyone want to confirm?

I also hooked up my timing light just to make sure the coil was ok and it seemed fine.

Wiggled all accessable connections while running lights never changed.

Jon Merck · 06-15-2006, 07:22 PM

Altenator is good. Traced every wire all good then started rechecking connections. Problem solved... the starter was not connected right. It is amazing how one stupid mistake can cause so much grief. Note to self both wires to battery and altenator wires go on long post. And make sure the are not touching anything else.

RoninLB · 06-15-2006, 07:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FSTNBLK
Note to self both wires to battery and altenator wires go on long post. And make sure the are not touching anything else.

I install the battery terminal first. Placing it on top of the alternator connector may eventually cause a noticable voltage drop when cranking the engine. All connections like this cause a resistance by design. Even an on/off sw causes some line resistance. I max out at 3 eye connectors stacked. Text may say you can get away with 4 or 5. Boating CG regs state 4 at a max.

RoninLB · 06-15-2006, 07:56 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by FSTNBLK

WANTED:Low Rise Lift,

check the gas station shop mags that arrive every month and look in classifides.

I bought a used Snap-On for $1,400. If I was a better shopper I could have found same for $1.000. There are dealers who sell this stuff and are hungry for a sale.

Jon Merck · 06-16-2006, 02:35 AM

Thanks for the tips Ronin LB! Good idea on the used lift route. I am planning on a 3.6 transplant and the lift is a must.