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How do I remove this residue?
I adjusted my valves and I'm going to replace my valve cover gaskets. I've used gasket remover...but I can't seem to get some of this stuff off....is this burnished oil, or possibly a silicone residue... How clean does this surface need to be, I would assume it should be perfectly clean...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150858878.jpg |
It needs to be very clean. You can use some very smooth sandpaper like a 1500 grade or 2000. Take your time and be gentle. Also soak the paper in gasket remover while you use it.
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Before you use the sandpaper, I would use some lint-free rags and wipe inside to outside to remove the majority of the grim. It will save you time and you might realize (with some elbow grease) that you may not need the sandpaper.
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That residue looks like an artifact from years of using the original-style cork gaskets ... and really isn't very important! Clean any oil off with rags and Brakleen or similar spray. There shouldn't be any problem with new valve cover gaskets, either the aftermarket red 100% silicone, or the factory graphited ones with green silicone bead! Be sure not to overtighten the Nyloc nuts, and use new aluminum sealing rings!
<B>Whatever you do ... DON'T USE SANDPAPER ON THOSE SEALING SURFACES, OR YOU RISK CREATING PERMANENT OIL LEAKS!!! </B> |
.. not to mention the grit that will likely circulate thru the engine...
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scotchbrite will clean it without damaging the metal.
Another option would be a dremel with a soft wire or fibre wheel, just make sure you don't gouge the metal. It is important to get it flat and remove the high spots especially around the studs. It might seal as is, but it might not. |
Do not use a scotch brite pad, they are loaded with grit that will get into your engine. 3M makes a 1, 2 and 3 inch gasket remover that looks like a plastic bristle. You need to use the yellow or white one on a angle die grinder or a pistol grip sander. Try to stuff rags into the areas that are exposed to keep the contamination to a minimum. This will make it look like new.
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I have always used a new single edge razor blade "carefully".
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+ 1 for red scotchbrite...
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I used ScotchBrite pad with Acetone and they cleaned up easily. I also cleaned up my heat exchangers like this and I used light gauge steel wool for the bad spots. Came out very nice... Work in a well ventilated area with Acetone!!
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The can says that stuff is known to cause cancer in the state of California. I guess it's a good thing I live in Arizona. |
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I used a Scotchbrite pad with brake cleaner and acetone. I think it's about as good as it's going to get. The down side is that there's a lot of grit and fuzz stuck in every nook and cranny.
Is a spray down with brake cleaner going to be enough to get all the grit off of the cam housings? Car wash? Dishwasher? Pool dunk? |
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I use single-edged razor blades and a modicum of patience to achieve excellent results. Follow that with a wipe down of a lint-free cloth soaked with brake cleaner and you're ready for the new gaskets. :) |
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they are both organic solvents and as such, not reactive in a manner than can be neutralized |
I used the razor blade on the chain housing to block mating surface. The valve cover areas on the cam housings were so caked up I didn't see any way other than using the Scotchbrite pad.
I wouldn't have done that if the engine were together. I'll probably take the cam housings to the machine shop for a rinse. |
Yup, Razor blade for me too! Actually, I think I used a X-acto blade to get around the studs. Soak it all in brake or carb cleaner to soften up all the crud.
Good luck! Brad |
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