Project 911E - Question #1
 

Hi, I recently started this 70 911E project, that I want to get back to original from a slope nose, and am starting to remove rear quarters. I'm not sure which is the best way to do this. I started by drilling out the rivets (fiberglass kit) but thinking that cutting the metal just above the fiberglass area might be cleaner without damaging the flares. I want to sell them to help cover the cost of all the new bodywork. Here are a few pics of what I'm doing. One from inside the fender shows about a 3" to 4" overlap where the fiberglass continues past the rivets (edge of fiberglass marked in photo to left of row of rivets coming down from top of photo).
If anyone is interested, I will try and post photos of the progress of the project. here are a few to date. It's getting hot in my area so progress might slow a bit.
Thankshttp://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150928912.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150929077.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150929166.jpg

You're doing that car a big favor! It would be great to see how is progresses!

I agree, tho it isn't nearly as bad in dark gray as in red.

Wish I could help, but good luck!

I think the best way to do this would be to replace the whole quarter panel. It will be less labor and cheaper in the long run. Plus you have a better chance of obtaining the desired outcome.

You can remove the panel by drilling out the spot welds and then cutting where needed.

First you should round up the replacement panels before you remove these. That will give you a better idea on how to approach removing these.

you might check in with some of the resident body gurus like Kevin P on this board and Early 911S Registry for their opinion..

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1150935983.jpg

Thanks for the replies. Yes, I have the new bits already and did consider removing the whole 1/4. Spot welds in engine compartment seem, 1/4 window seems and door jambs are easy to remove? Anything holding them between the spot welds? The more I think about it, the easier it sounds. Maybe I will proceed with this plan if I get some cooler temps in the next few days (upper 90's now).
Thanks again, Bob

Check out the thread on ways to stiffen the tub -- while you're in there.

That's great. I know Kevins' answer already. He prefers doing a whole panel.

I'm no expert but I'll tell you my thoughts on the door latch post (jamb).

As for keeping or replacing the door latch post I would think that if yours are in good condition you should keep them since they are already aligned with your doors (I assuming but this might not be the case). This way you can line the quarter panel up with the door, clamp it and then tack it. Make sure your doors are hung properly with the gaps where you want them to be before you start though.

You might even want to put a deck lid on and get it lined up before you start so you can use it for a guide as well.

Boboloo nailed it! Keep whatever sound foundation you have for alignment reasons. Thats super important. And whole panel is the way to go. Drill out the spots and you'll have a clean start.

Go to lowes or HD, buy a 8,500BTU or so AC unit for a couple hun $, install in window, roll down the door, turn it on, go inside, watch a car race....

Now, it's cool in the garage..get to work!

Thanks. Great advice on door jambs and deck lid for alignment. The tub is very solid (except for an area in front of the gas tank) so leaving original metal is the way to go. Oh, and I did get a 10,000 btu a/c, cut a whole in the wall, hung a tarp to block off the third bay of the garage, and the a/c did next to nothing. Considering insulating the garage door but don't want to waste more $$ that could go toward the car. It's 104 outside right now so will update you when I can last in the garage. Thanks.

Are you selling the front slantnose fenders? How much ru asking? I'm in the bay area. Thanks.

Project 911E - Update (for those interested)
 

I've made a little progress on the E. I decided to cut the fenders as pictured since the spot welds in the rear deck area seem to be leaded over (read that in a book). I was worried about making a mess of all the seems but the way it turned out looks very straight so far (tacked all the way around). Progress will slow again since it's incredibly hot here. I'm currently looking for front battery boxes and sheet metal for front of tub to accept the long hood again.
Must check the garage to see if my dinners cooked yet...
Thanks.





http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153185115.jpg

On behalf of the thousands of early cars that had slope nose, 959 or miami vice conversions done to them, thank you.

Yup, John's right, this will be a happy car when you're done!
Thanks for the effort to keep this thread up. It should be an inspiration to many here.
An "E" is a great car to end up with!

Semi-Annual Update
 

Well, since I've posted last, I've done quite a bit of work on the E if any remember seeing this thread. I cut off the front of the tub that was post 73' and put on the correct piece. Had some rust between front of tub and gas tank so tackled all that too. Rear quarters are 99% complete. Just a little sanding, smoothing and primer surfacer should have it perfect (I hope).
Cleaned all the underside and engine compartment and will spray some undercoat in the next few days. Anyone know what is correct color/undercoat for the bottom side (also fender wells) of a 70' E? It's hard to tell if some areas are body color.
Here are a few pics of recent.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161394654.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161394723.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161394875.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161395044.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1161395125.jpg

I don't think 'wow' really can describe this.

I was originally going to ask why you didn't just get rid of that car & go for one that was original. But, it looks like you are having too much fun to donsider that. Congrats on great work & bringing the car back to original. I also have a '69 E I hope to drive someday. One suggestion I have. I'm a big fan of POR-15. You might consider painting a layer of that on your bare metal before you cover it with undercoat. I could go a long way to help preserve the car from rust, if you plan on keeping the car for the long term. Keep up the good work. It seems like there are more 911E's in the world than almost anything else, when you look at the signatures. I thought they made mostly less of them than anything else.

What happened to this project?

Thanks, j911brick for checking in.

This project is 95% finished. The last 10% is taking forever and now the last 5%, a little longer. It's down to small details like door pockets don't close right. Hit the brakes and the headlights turn on also need sun visors and a trunk carpet kit.
But here is a current photo as I took it to the electrical shop to sort out the lighting. I should have it registered very soon so I can do a better test drive....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310433699.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1310433867.jpg

Nice. How bout some detail shots?