Engine rebuild? or Buy rebuilt? 2.4L 911T
 

Ok, for like the third time I've decided to keep my 911. It's a 1972 911T with a 2.4. I have recently taken it to the shop for a prebuy inspection and (not to my surprise) the compression test has yielded not so good results (the nearest percentage of leakage to 6% I got was 14%, up to 55%), meaning either a rebuild or a top end job. I'm pretty sure the numbers are original in the car, but haven't really researched it. I could rebuild the engine, but wonder if its really worth it when I can buy a rebuilt one for $2300+ or used for around $1500+. What if I tear the engine apart and find out its a total scrap, then...I'm going to have to buy one anyhow! If the numbers aren't matching wouldn't it be wise to just buy and bolt?

Some helpful and wise advice would be most appreciative.

Thanks,
Mike

You didn't mention the mileage on the engine? Does it smoke, make lots of rattling noises, valves real noisy after adjustment, etc then a rebuild is probably necessary. What was the actual compression and are the cylinders close? If so I'd continue to run it unless the aformentioned ???s are all true. In the Porsche mags several times the tech experts have said not to get too hyped about the leakdown test. If it runs fairly well then the internals are probably not to bad off, but as old as it is a complete overhaul may be necessary? If you keep the engine and overhaul it, the numbers will match, an important item and you can work with the mechanic to make sure it is rebuilt just the way it should be, not some mass produced rebuild job which you have no way of knowing what is inside.

[This message has been edited by john rogers (edited 08-03-1999).]

[This message has been edited by john rogers (edited 08-03-1999).]

John is right with al of his statements. You should use it until something goes on the engine. I would make sure, that nothing else (brakes, heat exchanges, tires, etc.) is acting up, however, because of the danger factor. With regard to buying a used engine. How do you know that it is better than what you have, as opposed to a warranty on a correct rebuild. Also, the "T" was a great car and 72 was a unique year, but the car has no real collectable value do to the high production numbers of the "T". If you could find a 72-73"S" engine and drop it in, you would be very happy and it probably wouldn't hurt the value of your car. "E" engines are great also because they aren't as peaky as "S" engines and they are very reliable.

[This message has been edited by marc weintraub (edited 08-03-1999).]

Appreciate your responses, let me give you the actual run down on the car. It's fitted with Webbers', and they're aparantly out of whack anyhow, so its a contributor to the symptoms. The car misfires at low RPM's, but a good stomping and it'll still do almost 90 in 3rd running smooth as ever. The cylinder leakage test: (direct from the shop)
#1-48%RINGS #4-45%RINGS
#2-28%RINGS #5-14%RINGS
#3-41%RINGS #6-55%RINGS
I'm assuming the "RINGS" notation is telling me the rings need replacing? The car doesn't smoke unless its cold and hasn't been started up in a couple of weeks. There is some oil leaking, but its the typical Valve Cover leakage onto the exhaust. Again, when the car is idling it is misfiring, but get it up to about 3grand and its running smooth. I think its a combination of the rings and the carbs being out of whack.
Thanks for all of your help.
-mike