Wow Dave, that is a sweet looking compartment......I don't know about the rear hubs though.......;)

You are a sick, sick person.

Now that we have that done, how much to do my car? That looks beautiful!

Joe A

You may be right, Mike...one hub DID seem to have a bit of a rough spot. Maybe I should get out the cheater bar and take the hubs off and do the bearings...I could plate the hubs while they're out!

Here's your humble narrator, wrapping up the day with some raw gasoline (hence the respirator/safety glasses):
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153016400.jpg

Kimberly came home from a day at the pool with Mommy and did some quality assurance work for me...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153016654.jpg

Hi Dave,

Looks great. The rear hubs, and brakes are easy to do "while you're there".;) You must be really looking forward to fitting the motor and getting the car back on the road.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...K/rer_hubs.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v2...K/for_ddk4.jpg

Alan

Out of interest how do you know what parts can be cad plated, and what parts must be zinc plated?

Frost in the UK do small plating kits for about £100 that could be a good DIY solution for small parts.

Looks great Davehttp://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/clap.gif

Nice Hubs Alan!

Dave, my comment about the hubs was a cheap shot, sorry about that:) At the time it sure made me feel better about my sickness though. It sure is going to be a stunner of a car, I'm always most impressed by cars where the owner has done the work themselves.

I just hope that if you're ever selling that car, I'll be in the market to buy at the time!

Not a joke. Cadmium is nasty stuff. It can be absorbed through the skin into the bloodstream. Manufactured products are banned from Sweden if they contain Cad plated fasteners. That's why automakers don't use it.
I hope you wore rubber gloves when you sorted that lot.

I'm wondering tho if it can be absorbed once the metal has already been treated (?) I've always assumed that it was a hazard to _do_ the plating (or be downstream from the plater).

Anyone know for sure?

Holy $hit. You have the disease too but you took it to a different level. Looks great Dave. Just got your PM because I rarely check them. You better get cracking. Summer is almost over. Whats the ETA on it?

Hi Joe! How are you enjoying your green monster??

I've done a ton of assembly this past week. Waiting on a few weird parts to come in from Stoddard. Delivery to the paint shop is tentatively scheduled for a week from Monday!

Headed back out to the garage here in a minute - time to secure my blower housing, route some new wiper fluid hose, test fit some trim, and pack up some hardware.

Damn Dude!

not for sure. But I know more than I did before some superficial checking... I did not find anything written specifically about handling cadmium plated material but one source (bottom) had this to say, "Welding and thermal cutting of cadmium-plated metal
products eg. bolts, is also a potential source of substantial exposure."

Handling sounds relatively benign. Fumes and exposure to plating process seem to raise all the red flags. There's mention of avoiding cadmium plated cutlery Lots n lots of govt. fact sheets floating around out there...


http://www.idph.state.il.us/cancer/factsheets/cadmium.htm
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cadmium
http://www.health.qld.gov.au/phs/Documents/ehu/2665.pdf

Maybe wash it well after you get it back. But then the question is what to do with the wash water... You wouldn't want it going into a stream or lake which it will if it goes in a strom drain or down the sink. Are there any neighbors you really hate who have gardens?

You are not going to get anywhere near the temperatures they are talking about re welding, etc.

I'm freaking exhausted.

This weekend I've installed both spring plates and set the ride height (and patched the undercoating all over the car, routed the wiper fluid system, repaired the wiring harness in the trunk, routed and secured all the hoses and wires under the dash and behind the pedal cluster, installed the fuel filter console, cleaned the car, removed the oil cooler & lines, and on, and on...). So now, the rear of the car is done, just needs an engine and a sway bar.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154225865.jpg

Here's a pic of the mounted fuel filter console.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154225998.jpg

The completed oil cooler installation...which was removed 5 mins after this pic was snapped for painting.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154226114.jpg

All packed away in the garage again...cleaned inside and out, ready for delivery to the painter on Monday!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154226208.jpg

Now I'm sitting in front of the TV with a beer, making a pile of new seals and gaskets that need to be washed to remove the release compound...

"I'm freaking exhausted. "
- It looks great tho.

I demand an update!;)

Dave,

Did you do your parts in Type II Cad or were they Zinc plated? It appears that they were finished in Zinc plating. Also it's good to ask your plater to "bake" any of the parts that are structural, also springs, etc. This will remove the hydrogen embrittlement (sp) and possible failure in future. However the "baking" must be done directly after the plating, at least that's what I've been told.

Poorsha's brake dust covers are Zinc plated... I think Zinc plating is cheaper. I've had some cad plating completed lately and decided to spray a high quality clear on the parts to see if the Cad would hold up better. It changes the color some, but maybe in the long run the parts will look better.

niner11: Ask and you shall receive: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/382440-restoration-porn-5-years-counting-painted-now.html

Mitch - most of the stuff I have had plated is baked yellow cad.