Rear axle reinstall problems...
 

Guys, I know I've been asking alot of stupid questions, but this is all new to me. I'm trying to reinstall the rear axles and I got one on the the inboard side of the other won't go. There's not enough room to get the axle to slip onto the tranny. I'm going crazy, there's go to be a trick to this! Please help!

The cv joint is probably holding things up. The axle SHOULD slide back towards the wheel to make room to meet the trans. It will work, Art. I ran into the same thing and all I can tell you is that it does go back together. Sorry, just moral support today.

Thanks!
 

Wayne,
Thanks! I'll keep trying. Feels like I'm pushing a boulder up a hill and it keeps rolling back down. The hard oil line under the engine has to be removed and I'm NOT looking forward to that!!

OK, I got both axles on and the connections to the nose of the tranny (speddometer and backup lights). but now I'm quite aways from the tranny mount point. I'm not able to move the engine/tranny much and I still need to move the tranny forward a few inches. Any ideas? Hints? Thanks, I'm going crazy...

Is the shift rod through the trans tunnel? It should be clear to move in. You may have to just wiggle and "finesse" the assembly into place.

This is knid of like talking somebody through giving birth over the phone.






Well, maybe not, but just as stressful.

it's a hassle - gets easier after you doing 4-5 times.

trymoving everything around just a little bit

... and use different angles to try getting it in there

WTF can't I get the trans mount bolts in? They are lined up and they spin, but don't grab. I don't have air impact tools, is what's wrong? I pulled these off with a 19mm socket, but I can't seem to be able to get these two basta** bolts to hold. I've been at this for several hours and the progress has been very slow!!

Still no progress. I must not be wired like you guys, this isn't working and I've had an incredibly frustrating day with no end in sight. You guys drop/reinstall engines alone and with no problems, I must be an incompetent wrench because I'm not getting anywhere and I've spent a day crawling under the car, and I still can't get the tranny mounts in. I guess I should stick to computers...

With respect to bolting-up the front trans mountings, try aligning everything with a tapered awl or the like. While I am not certain, or cannot remember if these threaded bits are of the floating nut plate type, which if so, could explain your difficulty.

I should know what they are since I had a 74 that I removed and installed an engine/trans assy. into... Just cannot remember:(

Chris,
The tranny bolts are threaded with a pointed end. I got one on but I ccan't get the other mount point to line up. I've been at this since this AM and I'm no further than this, pretty discouraging...

Wow, what an unbelievably unproductive, frustrating day.

Art,
Loosen the four bolts on the tranny bracket a turn or two so the bracket flops around a little. With the bracket loose you can easily line up the big bolts and get them started.
CAREFUL, don't get them cross threaded.
They will go.
If you get frustrated take a break until you feel better.
No point getting all riled up over a stinking bolt.
They will go.

post some pics see if we can advise more specifically for you

know others near you that have done this?
- beer and pizza are powerful motivators

Dude, calm down. Don't make every event a crisis. Take your time, and be methodical. It was only 1 hour between your first post and the one that you resolved the axle problem. You started all this less than 6 hours ago. Relax, grab a beer.

calm down is right
 

I second the calm down advice. I am taking a break from trying to get the clutch clevis pin inserted in that confined tunnel and have been at it for an hour. I learned that taking a break and letting the frustration subside help. Meanwhile I read Wayne's book's section on it and it says it is a piece of cake. I'd like to get him here to have some of that cake. yah, sure. Just like removing those bearing dust cap is a piece of cake.

If you have the rear mount bar already attached, get a jack back under the engine/trans and remove the mount bolts in the rear mount bar. Then line up the trans bolts as well as possible with a screw driver or something round and smaller than the mount bolts. Then jack up the engine/trans enough to force the mounts up against the car. You should be able to move the whole assembly around enough to get the trans mount bolts started. Once they are lined up, you will wonder what the fuss was all about. They just have to be at the correct angle.

When the car is fighting you, you're going to take more time anyway.

Just slow down, slow way down and think through it. Don't beat yourself up, or the car.

I just went through a difficult front suspension and steering that took all weekend so I can feel your pain.

Todays's progress...
 

You guys are right (of course). Just when I was at my breaking point, my neighbor came over and helped me get the tranny mount bolts back in, we had to "wiggle" the engine around and get the car/engine jack at just the right angle. It was a pain, but just when we got that done another Pelican (David Alessandrini) and his son Cameron came over to help. It seems the hard oil lines on the new engine won't mate up with my oil cooler setup, so I took the old hard line and swapped it with the one on the new engine. Swapping required removing the heat exchanger on the driver's side and David used his finesse and fine mechanical skills to remove the nuts without breaking them. What a great guy! He brought his son Cameron, who seemed to enjoy the pool! David's car is beautiful and his paint job is the best I've ever seen and he did it himself. Here are a few pics...

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1151730388.jpg

David and his son, Cameron (great folks!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1151730452.jpg

David's car (great car!!)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1151730528.jpg

Art, I love your garage with the computer going in the background, lol. David's car is really clean and has great paint, like you said. I wouldn't mind a few tips on removing exhaust nuts without breaking the studs.

Rusnak,
The conputer and Internet connextion in the garage really help! David and I (mostly David) got the exhause studs off by spraying PBBlaster, letting it sit, then applying a quick "yank" after making sure the wrench was seated in the socket like it's supposed to be. We didn't use a breaker bar to apply leverage as thet techniqui tends to break the studs. We used a Craftsman t-handle allen wrench to get the nuts off and it was just long enough to reach through the exchangers. We used a socket on a swivel to gt to the others. It was tedious and required patience and it worked!