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Valve Covers on too tight?
Just did the valve adjustment 3 days ago. Tightened down the valve covers with new Silicone bead gaskets, crush washers and lock nuts. Drove it around town for about 30 minutes. No leaks, no problems.
After sleeping on it, I'm thinking I may have tightened the nuts too much. I'm concerned that when I really heat things up I could warp a cover or do damage to the stud but on the other hand, will I loose my gasket's sealing ability if I loosen things up. Do I: 1) leave well enough alone and drive - or - 2) go back a loosen them up and re-tighten them with less? Obsessive/Compulsive Paranoia or Careful attention to detail?
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-------------------------------------- Joe See Porsche run. Run, Porsche, Run: `87 911 Carrera |
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Somerville, New Jersey
Posts: 484
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I think they only call for about 7ft/lbs torque, so chances are they're too tight. If you took them off, new gaskets and nylon nuts would be recommended by most
edit: for spelling recommended wrong
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-Matt 1985 Targa |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,497
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I can't tell from your post to what torque you tightened them so hard to say if they are overtorqued.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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I didn't use a torque wrench but just kept going around tightening them till the nuts didn't turn with a 3/8th ratchet. They're really snug. Could be 20-30 lbs
I'm thinking if I back off the pressure, the gaskets will hold in place till I re-tighten them with less pressure or would the "damage" already be done?
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-------------------------------------- Joe See Porsche run. Run, Porsche, Run: `87 911 Carrera |
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Joe,
The spec for use with those green siliconed-beaded gaskets is 6 lb-ft, which can't be measured accurately with a 3/8" or 1/2" drive torque wrench! That is actually lower than the value for the M6 chain cover studs ... for which I recommend a 'four-finger' grip on a small combination wrench -- four fingers of your dominant hand snugged-up close to the socket end of the wrench to minimize leverage. I don't think there is much danger of damage to the studs, and the gaskets probably haven't taken a 'set,' yet, so go ahead and loosen the valve covers after jacking up that side to minimize oil spillage. If you have a 1/4" drive torque wrench ... use the 72 lb-in [6 lb-ft] value on the nuts, otherwise try the 'four-finger' method. Good luck!
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Warren Hall, Jr. 1973 911S Targa ... 'Annie' 1968 340S Barracuda ... 'Rolling Thunder' |
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Considering that they are already torqued down pretty tight, I'm thinking I may need to make them a little tighter than normal to make sure the gaskets stay sealed. What do you think?
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-------------------------------------- Joe See Porsche run. Run, Porsche, Run: `87 911 Carrera |
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Location: Rancho Cucamonga Ca
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I did my first adjustment last winter, overtorqued the nuts. It didn't leak right away as a small drip started to occur about a week later near #3 and 6 cylinder. I replaced the gaskets and nuts and used Warren's method. No leaks now and it's better to leave them loose and re-tighten them later than to over tighten.
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'75 911S Silver Anniversary #164(Formerly JTO's) Rebuilt 2.7 with full ARP, 9:1 CR. SSI, GHL, ER polybronze bushings, finned oil lines. Lowered and corner balanced. CIS retired, now PMOs! '65 912 slate gray sunroof (driving project) |
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Well, I went back and check them all. They were a little tight but not as bad as I had feared. I guess the Obsessive Compulsive Paranoia was kicking in
but better safe than sorry. I will sleep much better now (even though I will check for leaks for about 2 weeks after ael911's encouraging word about the leak showing up a week later.
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-------------------------------------- Joe See Porsche run. Run, Porsche, Run: `87 911 Carrera |
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If it's already done and no problem no leak now. I would leave it alone.
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Fat butt 911, 1987 |
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