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Anachronistic Anomaly
 
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Join Date: Jun 2006
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Need opinions: slight rust on 1980 911SC in SoCal

This weekend I looked at a 1980 SC. Mechanically, very sound. 87K miles. Not a shake, shimmy, squeak or shudder. Current owner has barely driven it (he has a lot of toys) over the past five years. Previous owner had it since new and used it as a daily driver. Thus, the interior had sun damaged seats and steering wheel. Dash pad has been replaced. Other than the seats and steering wheel, the interior is fantastic.

One thing that's bothering me. Slight rust at the bottom corners of the windshield. Also, small rust spot on the body at the top driver's side corner of the trunk lid. Is this a minor issue (as far as rust goes) or is this indicative of a larger problem?

Old 07-10-2006, 03:08 PM
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Pictures would help.

How much is the owner asking?

Have you had a PPI done on the mechanicals?
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:11 PM
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Anachronistic Anomaly
 
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I wish I had some pics. Didn't have my camera with me.

Haven't had a PPI yet because I'm wondering if it's even worth the trouble.

Asking $14K.
Would rather pay closer to $12K
Old 07-10-2006, 03:15 PM
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You really need to have an expert poke around the rust spots to determine how extensive the problems are. Rust at the corner of the windshield is not uncommon.
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Old 07-10-2006, 03:57 PM
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thanks much, scottb.
would a PPI at a reputable p-car shop usually involve something like that?
body shop the way to go?

anyone else, please chime in as well.

ALSO...

If anyone can recommend a shop for a PPI in or around Fullerton, that would help a lot.
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:20 PM
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$14k is way too much...even $12k is way to much. That rust could cost almost that much to fix.

I had a BMW that had a rust at the A-pillar nad the C-pillar and they were about 1" spots and I was quoted $15k to strip the car, fix the rust, and paint it.
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Currently own:
1980 911SC slantnose
1991 Honda Accord -daily driver (1991 Honda Accord #2 - just because)
2003 Acura TL Type-S (2006 Honda Odyssey w/ DVD)

Gone but missed:
1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
1987 Chevy Corvette (1996 Mustang Cobra)
1993 Jeep Wrangler (1995 Mustang GT Conv.)
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Old 07-10-2006, 04:25 PM
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Too much. Even a relatively cheap seat redo in vinyl and steering wheel could EASILY put you at $500 - $1000 depending on what you need, and especially if new doesn't match the faded old. Figure with zero rust (which you already know it has) a quality paint job could be anywhere up to $5000. Much, much more for a more expensive job, windows out, color change etc. and still more if you get those fenders off and there is significant rust below. You're easily looking at a $20,000 SC. Too many good ones out there for less. Good luck.
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Old 07-10-2006, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lfot
If anyone can recommend a shop for a PPI in or around Fullerton, that would help a lot.
Scott's Independent in Anaheim:
http://www.scottsind.com/scotts.htm

$12K is too much as you have described it. As others have said get a PPI and have someone familiar with the type of car and where to look for rust. Often when there is surface rust, there is more lurking.

The need for a steering wheel and seat replacements can be seen as an "opportunity" to to upgrtade and/or improve what is there. I got a 930S steering wheel a few years ago and wondered why I waited. Good replacement seats pop up occasionally on Pelican's for sale forum. I got a nice pair of seats from a fellow Pelican locally, for a very good price.

Paint and related issues can run into $$. I recently had my SC painted by Pelicanite KevinP73 (Automotive Innovations). He did a fantastic job at a very reasonable price.

Good luck with your search.
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Ray H.
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by lfot
thanks much, scottb.
would a PPI at a reputable p-car shop usually involve something like that?
body shop the way to go?

anyone else, please chime in as well.

ALSO...

If anyone can recommend a shop for a PPI in or around Fullerton, that would help a lot.
Talk to Jeff at Aase Motors, Commonwealth and Gilbert near Fullerton Airport. Extremely knowledgeable and their work is first class. Stop by and ask a few questions before you buy.
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Last edited by TerryH; 07-10-2006 at 10:07 PM..
Old 07-10-2006, 06:34 PM
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I'll second Aase Motors...did good for me on an out of town PPI. Gave me a list of things to get my deposite back and didn't even charge me.
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Old 07-10-2006, 06:50 PM
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My guess is that these days, most SCs have some rust on them. It may not be apparent but it's probably there. But there are those people out there who claim they don't drive in the rain.
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Old 07-10-2006, 07:00 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by JR_NYC
My guess is that these days, most SCs have some rust on them. It may not be apparent but it's probably there. But there are those people out there who claim they don't drive in the rain.
Don't drive in the rain, hell I don't even drive it when it's sunny out.
Old 07-10-2006, 08:16 PM
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As a guy who has fabricated sheet metal to repair the exact rust you describe, proceed with exreme caution.

I would contact the seller and ask if he would consider around $10K. If so, then get a PPI. If he balks, then walk. That rust can be repared moreasily now,as Restoration Design stamps repair panels for that area, but it still involves a lot of invasive work, and theres a possibility that the water has holed the metal under the seal, and that it's been dripping and rusting other bits.

Certainly allowing significant funds to repair (5-9K) is in order. The seller will balk, but show him ads for cars that are in better shape that cost less.

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'73 yellow 911E , & 2003 BMW M3 Cab. Ex: 84 Mazda RX-7 SCCA racer. did ok with it, set some records, won some races, but it wore out, LOL[/B]
Old 07-10-2006, 09:46 PM
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