Smart Racing's SmartStrings - Alignment
 

I know there are ways to align without the string method, and I've read the threads on home built string systems, but - has anyone bought and used the Smart Racing SmartStrings system?
http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfcat/srp2006_accessories.pdf


Ease of use? Results?

And completely seperately, is corner balancing worth performing or useful for non-track purposes?
Any links to threads as to how to perform corner balancing?

thanks - as always,

Jim

I'm sorry that I don't have any corner balance threads bookmarked, but I'm sure many do. AFA usefulness, you bet. An unevenly balanced car will tend to pull when driving and lock up one brake before others, not to mention pull to one side. A reasonably close balance is an absolute necessity. It's a wonderful thing to have a car that one can balance. Ever tried CB'ing a Chevy truck?

I use my own strings attached to stakes driven in the ground at a considerable distance from each end of the car for parallel accuracy, plus one as a centerline using the car's own data points. SR's are a convenience. Mine and others are just as good.

I've done several DE's in cars that weren't corner balanced, and many more AX's. The car handled just fine for my level of driving. Personally I don't really see where corner balancing will really help out during normal day to day driving. Set the ride height, do an alignment, and go enjoy your car.

Not so fast on the corner balance issue....sure, not important for a street car to get within a lb of perfect, but even Porsche factory specs call for "within 44 lbs" ( or so) for a non Turbo and within 20 lbs or so ( Turbo)...left to right...to get the kind of benefits that milt alludes to. Some cars are "out" by 200 lbs or more and you can feel the difference.

- Wil

I've done a few alignments using smart strings. A full align and corner balance took about 6 hours using a hoist on a gt3 cup car. Its a slow process, but its very effective if you want your setup method to be the same in the shop and at the track (where you cant bring an alignment rack). On a street car, I would use the computer alignment rack (unless the purpose is to save money and do it yourself, then go with smart strings).

On a street car, I would say a corner balance is good to have. Old Porsches are pretty high strung. I wouldnt go as accurate as I would on a race car (for obvious reasons), but I wouldnt skip it if you're installing a new suspension.

I would at least look at it using the Tripod. I think it is much more noticeable when you have stiffer Torsions. Mine was way out after putting some parts in but the alignment was right. As Will said when I got the CB close it tracked straighter, the steering was lighter (???) and hard street breaking did not lock up a tire. I may be nuts but I just relocated my heavy optima battery from driver front to the smugglers box and I think I can tell the difference in street driving!!!! It might be that these old cars because of the funny weight distribution (again especialy with stiffer TBs) are pretty sensitive to it.

Finally, if you add your weight to the drivers seat and then ride height it while using the tripod it will be pretty good.

Thanks All

Yes - this is a completely new, rebuilt, upgraded suspension - so a balancing seems warranted.

First - one more question, after having last night read voluminous threads on corner balancing: It seems to me that a most precise height setting and 'total' alignment should - or might, or probably will result in a 'fair' or maybe 'close enough' corner balancing result. Is this a somewhat accurate interpretation and understanding?

For my car I was hoping to get it aligned close enough to drive to a Porsche alignment specialist for the complete alignment and corner balancing. The shop I visited yesterday however, does not do corner balancing... I'll have to post a seperate inquiry for 'who does' in my area.

So, I'm still conflicted on whether to get the SmartStrings (not that expensive) and attempt a 'best practice' alignment, or even flat bed the car to a shop. I'm probably a week or two away from reinstalling the engine and transmission, so I have at least until then to decide time versus cost versus results versus earned knowledge, etc.

Thanks again, and more advice gratefully accepted,
Regards,
Jim

this is how Penske does the RS Spyder. ,
1. ride height,
2. toe in/out,
3. castor/camber,
4. corner balance,
5. repeat steps 1-4
6. repeat steps 1-4
7. repeat, etc, as theoretically, each individual adjustment will effect one of the prior measurements, gradually zeroing in on the target.

time consuming? definitely, considering that when done in your garage, each step involves a ride around the block to settle everything in.


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152707716.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152707736.jpg

1000 pnds.!, that's freaking light!, cheers, Ant.

901 kg total

upps! did not see it was in kg's, Ant.

I don't know if you've seen this thread, but I used the smart racing strings as a template:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=80904&highlight=alignme nt

Here's the new and improved version of the setup:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1152748196.jpg

Not as nice as the Penske setup, but probably a little cheaper. :D

Do you work for Penske? One of my coworkers just got a job with them and is going to me moving out there in the next month or so.

All great info above.

I confirmed my settings with good tires on a straight flat road with a temp probe stuck in the tire at 3 places. I could only do 2 tires at a time as temp leaves fast.

I filled gas tank to 3/4 and used drivers weight in the seat. My car was completely flat using water in a clear tube to create 4 level areas for the tires.

Went thru 2 sets of tires this way and was able to tweak my settings for my act using a tire measurement tool every 5k mi.

I like BK911's set up.

When setting up toe...use a toe (angle) chart, not just the measurement, unless you understand that a 1/8 measurement for a 24" diameter wheel is different from the 1/8 measurement for a 23 diam or 25 diam wheel (one example).

It's reassuring to see Penske use the old string method. I've had one too many discussions about a lazer rack versus the old reliable method. Accuracy is not just precision...not the whole picture :)