Kurt that little sensor on the right hand side sounds like your speedo sensor...when you remove the bolt, the little metal pin holds the sensor in that recess...once you remove the bolt the the little pin will come off and the sensor can be pulled out...The reverse backup light switch is the one at the front of the transaxle...just to the right of the shift rod. Before you take that plug out..pull both wires out of the sensor itself, use needle nose pliers. If you try to remove the plug without pulling the wires...they'll bind and break when you try to loosen the sensor with your wrench....hope this makes sense.

No work done over the week as I work a full time job and it has been too hot. Flywheel came back from the shop Friday so I was able to get the new clutch installed.

Flywheel back in place and torqued to 66lbs.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237752.jpg

New clutch disc in place
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237770.jpg

New light weight pressure plate installed
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237817.jpg

Replaced a cracked fuel line http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237875.jpg

Replaced the oil pressure switch, engine thermostat O-Ring, and crank case breather gasket.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237923.jpg

Going to spend a little time tomorrow cleaning the tranny case.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154238186.jpg

Tomorrow I will replace the lower valve cover gaskets, install wevo engine and tranny mounts, clutch cable and more... At least the weather was a lot cooler today.

SmileWavy

Nothing much has happened tahnks to a minor CV boot issue. I did not want to reinstall the engine and tranny without replacing at the time, one cv boot. I ended up replacing all four, one Saturday, the rest tonight. Repacking the joints as well. I hope the engine and tranny finally go back in tomorrow evening after work.

Engine and transmission back together.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155627555.jpg

Decided to upgrade...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155627596.jpg

One CV joint is bad, but I can't afford to fix it right now. Hopefully, switching the joints around will buy me some time.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155627646.jpg

The saga continues... SmileWavy

Dave,

Great thread... I'll be doing my clutch soon. Thanks for the great info.

Quick question: Where did you buy this hose? Did you have it made. It looks like mine needs replacing, but I looked at PP and it costs something like $150 yikes....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1154237875.jpg

Fernando,
The hose to which you are referring is the return line from the fuel pressure regulator. It is low pressure. You could eliminate the fitting and tie in the return line elsewhere, so it doesn't have the acute bend. I used black german braided fuel line, which is about 7mm ID (could have been 8mm). It slipped right over the top of the metal return fuel line heading into the tunnel and also fit the nipple on the above regulator. On my slip fit, I made a bulge in the metal return line (like a nipple) and double clamped the braided line in place. I believe I got the black braided fuel line from the high performance VW shop in Escondido.

SloDave -
Nice project! Good to see you are making repairs while you are in there. No sense in doing things twice!

Doug

I foolishly replaced the fuel line with a new expensive one. Oh well.


Whooo hoooo Engine and tranny are back in the car. It was a struggle, but it is in. Tomorrow I will finish hooking up hoses, wires, etc. I ended up getting 24 new cv bolts measuring 45mm length instead of the normal 50mm. This solved the problem of of the different cv boot/flange. Oh yeah, I was having a hard time with my cv boots. There was one tense moment when the left rear tire gently bumped the engine as it was under the car and tipped it and the tranny over. Nothing damaged.

SmileWavy

Not a good thing to have happen to you..:eek:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155714725.jpg

Finally back home...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155714774.jpg

That picture of the fallen engine is a really scary picture. What were you thinking sitting there with your feet under the engine. The engine is capable of inflicting serious injury. This is a good case for buying the right tools for the job. Anyone considering dropping the engine should buy this tool whatever the price its cheap. Being pinned under an 800lb engine is not my idea of good fun.
Really guys DYI is fun and the money you save can be spent on tools and reused again and again. Why take risks like this? Crazy!

He was not near the engine when it tipped over. At the point of the picture, the engine was stable. The angle of the picture also makes his feet look like they are right under the engine, but were not. Even though not all the correct tools and supports were at hand, we were very safe. I would like to be around for the next project. :)

Now that I have done this once and have decided that I can do it again in the future, more of an investment will be made in the tool department.

Dave

Great job Dave!
Thanks for the detailed thread :)

How is she running?

-Matt

Hi Matt,

Not running yet. Still have to plug in all hoses and electrical. That is tonights project.

Dave

Good luck!

Have fun with it.
-Matt

Whoooo Hooo!!!!
 

All four wheels are back on the ground and the engine fired up first try!!! One problem I think I just solved was a very funny d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d-d sound and feel when the car was brought up to 2000 RPM and beyond. Felt like it wasn't firing on all 6. I apparently forget to connect one cable! Duh. It is 1:30 in the A.M. and I do not feel like driving back to the hanger to plug it in and fire up the engine again.

Can anyone spot what I forgot to plug in? ;)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155890251.jpg

Would this cause the rough feel and sound?

Second issue. I think this is going to have a bad answer, but here I go... I did not hook up the rear left heater hose from the fan shroud to the heat exchangers yet. When I took a look at the engine after it had been running for a few minutes, I noticed a bit of smoke (oil) coming out of the heat exchanger hole. I can only think of two things. 1) A heat exchanger has a hole in it or 2) My engine has reached EOL (it has 224,000 miles and never been opened). Any thoughts/answers to this?

Even though the car was running weird, I still did some slow figure 8's at the hanger and other than a final adjustment on the clutch cable, my car went forward in first and also went in reverse. For this, I am very happy! The clutch feel was a lot softer and smoother than the old one. The old clutch required more muscle to push the pedal down.

I would like to thank: Pelican Parts, Allen at PP for dealing with me time and time again with all of my parts orders, all of you on this forum who have encouraged me and helped me along the way, Robert, my boss, for helping me remove and reinstall the engine and tranny, my mechanic, Scott, Thanks for putting up with me, VISA, for giving me credit ;) and everyone else who has been so tolerant of me during this passed month.

I have done work on this car before, but this project has been the most involved and hardest so far. I have learned a tremendous amount about my car and am grateful for it. I plan on rebuilding both the engine and tranny (not at the same time) as well in the future and know now that I can do it.

One last picture...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1155891597.jpg

Thank you for joing me on my little adventure. I think I may write up a thread regarding CV joints and boots for those of us that have a 1984 Carrera and those who share the same OEM parts. Even though the actual tear down and assembly was pretty straight forward, getting all of the right parts was not.

See you on the road!


SmileWavy

Dave

Dave: 224 000 miles? You have a lot of courage by not doing a top end rebuild at that mileage.
Nice going and I hope it'll work out for you and run alright.

Stylin dude...looks great buddy; I'm installing flywheel and the whole shebang today as well.

However, I have grease or oil or some ***** on my new fly wheel. How do I clean it off? I don't think it should be there, but it came that way.

Thanks Kurt. How about using a little degreaser or brake cleaner to get the oil off?

Good news: All oil leaks except for one that I new about before and left due to the $$$ of a new line are fixed!!! Badf news is that I went to the hanger this morning, reconnected the cable I left off and started the car up again. Still feeld like a cylinder is not firing. I suppose the next easy step is to see that all cylinders are getting spark. After that, I'm not really sure what to check for. Any help, ideas, etc. are welcome. Thanks!!

Dave

I am just worried that anything I put on the flywheel will jack it up and I 'll have slipping clutch problems down the road...

Yeah, just check for a bright blue spark for that cylinder. I did such a test when I suspected I had a bad coil, and while the spark (for a random cylinder) was present, it was yellowish...but the car would not start; I replaced it, and the car started right up. So, bright blue spark to that cylinder.

Then check to see if maybe you accidentally popped off the injector connector. Those tend to break. That should be firmly planted on there.

And of course, it's possible you have a stuck/broken injector.
I used to have several injectors handy. If you have a bad one, let me know. I have some lying around from 2001 or so that were working OK ( I will have to look for them, but I'm sure I have them somewhere), I just wanted new ones.

My flywheel that came out was gunked up and I cleaned it a bit before having it resurfaced. I would not worry about it. Just make sure that it is dry, although water can get in there during normal driving. If your flywheel seal is bad, as mine was, oil will get all over the flywheel and possibly the clutch. No fun, but not the end of the world. Clean your flywheel, it'll be fine.

Thanks for the tips. I am hopefull that is all it is. It could be an injector. There was something funny about one, but at the time thought that it may be normal.

Dave

Okay...
Hey, now I'm ready to mate the transmission up with the engine, and the article on pelican cuts out at this part...I haven't gotten 101 projects moved to my house yet...
How do I get the throw out arm onto the throwout bearing when I mate? It looks like just get it 45 degrees and push the transmission on, and it should end up mounts on the throw out bearing right?

Is that what you did?

Thanks...I can't find the procedure for mounting it back in bentley for some reason; the clutch just ends with installing the clutch, not how to put the trans and engine back together.

Way to go. I actually happened to have a graphite arrow with a paper clip hook on the end that I used to fish out a nut earlier on. Turns out that the arrow was great for getting the throw out arm lined up. I put the tranny on part way and nudged it closer to the engine until the arm was ready to be lined up with the trow out bearing. Using the arrow, I pushed or pulled the arm until it looked like it would go around the bearing and then mated the tranny to the engine, checking to make sure the arm installed right. Hope this makes sense. I should've taken some pics.

Dave

yeah, I hear ya...you can look in the hole on top of the tranny and see that the fork is in the throw out bearing groove...
I have mated it now...and the fork is in the TO groove.
Thanks...I can only hope that I can actuate my clutch as you have in a matter of a few days here--or maybe even tomorrow!

I effed up one part when I put on the pressure plate. The clutch mount tool fell forward, and when I was tightening the pressure plate, I heard some asbestos crunching...took it off, and noticed about a 1/16" by 1/2" piece I crunched and I just pulled it off (and threw it away, get that ***** as far away from you as possible)...oh well, I'm not going to get a new one. It's very small, and it's on the pressure plate side. Hopefully it won't be a big issue. My armchair nascar days are over (light to light), so I just want to get it up and running without the grinding!

Thanks!