930 Problems HELP!!!
 

A week ago I bought an 87 930 with the mods listed below. I have put about 600 miles on it and it runs great...but...

The first day I had it after running it for a couple of hours it would not restart. It cranked fine, I thought I smelled fuel but it wouldn't fire up. I checking the wires and eventually it started. I chalked it up to maybe me pumping the pedal after the initial try and flooding it or a loose wire. I found a red wire that seemed to have become seperated froma connection where it looks to be attached to a overboost sensor. There is also a yellow wire thta is stilkl attahed in that area. You can see where the red was "tacked" into to it previously. PO was called and he had no idea. I electric taped the red wire and drove for the next few days without incident.

Last night I was cruising along in 2nd at about a constant 300-3500 rpm's trying to dodge deer on my road :) when I heard a"clunk" the car bucked and then died.

I have tried starting several times last night and this afternoon with no luck. Where should I start????????? I bought a wire brush and plan on changing fuses and cleaning contacts. I may also try to "rerigging that red wire. It is located just south of the intercoolers tube on the far drivers side rear of the car so it's hard to reach or photo with the intercooler installed. How hard is the intercooler to remove???

Thanks in advance.

87 930 Guards Red / K27 7200 / Tial 46mm WG / 1 Bar Spring / B&B SS Headers and Exhaust

Easy to remove, couple of hoses and a couple of bolts, then you have to ease it off the manifold and turbo pipe, should pop right off.

Took it off. The red wire certainly broke off the same point where the yellow is attached. But it ran like this, so I am not sure if this is THE ISSUE. I will post photos.

I disconnected the battery and have begun removing each fuse, inspecting and cleanming the fues and the contact.

Her is where the yellow wire is and where I believe the red was attached to the other side?? Lookks like they were held together with a grey epoxy??

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153264045.jpg

Here are the 2 wires after I disconnected the yellow.http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153264203.jpg

Are you getting spark? If not try checking your CDI. When they are going bad they become intemitten, especially when they are hot.

Those 2 wires go to the Thermo Time switch, and I can tell you for sure if they are not connected the car WILL NOT start easy and run as it should. Trust me on this, I had hugh problems with starting and ideling right. Without that switch the Thermo Time Valve or the Cold Start Switch will not work correct.

By chance, did you escape from Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. Your hands are a dead giveaway.

By chance, did you escape from Willy Wonka's chocolate factory. Your hands are a dead giveaway:)http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1153267228.jpg

Oompa..Loompa..Doopity..Dooo..I've got a puzzle.... let me tell it too YOU.......

My freakin' Porsche won't go!


Yeah the flash real close up made everything go pink..weird??

I ordered the Thermo Time switch Bosch part online for $72 vs. the $280 Porsche wanted...we will see if that's it. Anyway I needed it so no loss if it doesn't solve the issue.

Thanks

The part arrived today, I installed it and no help. I checked all the other wires and fuses, I smell fuel and hear the pumps....cranks but no fire.

I am going to talk to afriend who is more familiar with these cars, if that fails I think I may need professional help.

location?

By now you have probably flooded it, pull the plugs and clean them. .. but I would be very concerned about the "clunk" you heard, Turn it over by hand when the plugs are out and listen/feel for anything out of the ordinary. You may even want to pull the valve covers and make sure everything moves freely.

I am in NY

I ran out of time today, I will pull the plugs and see.

Well I removed the airbox along with the intercooler to get a good look at EVERY wire and vacuem line. Nothing remarkable except the green wire that leads to the bottom of the distributor seems to be losing the wire that is wrapped around it and the spark plug wires look like they could be replaced. I was still looking for my cause and I checked for spark....nothing...nada. I then removed the coil and checked it. I checked some old posts online and got an idea whatt he Bosch coil should read, but when I checked mine my OHM meter went to infinity from any and all of the terminals. Looks like I have a bad coil. I am going to pick up a MSD blaster high vibration and some Magnacors tomorrow. I figure it's much easier to do the wires with everything apart so I might as well do them. Hopefully this will get me running again.

SHE"S BACK!!!!! SmileWavy

Well, after a delay of 10 days of me trying to fix it myself, a week for my vacation and a week for my mechanics vacation the car is BACK! The CD box was the culprit and it was replaced with a rebuilt used unit. That solved that problem. I had already replaced a broken Thermo time Switch and all the plug wires with Magnacors while I was fussing around trying to find the problem.

With the replacement box installed, I wanted the car gone over from one end to the other with an eye towards fixing anything that needed fixin'(within moderation $$$). Not having ever driven a 930 for more than a few minutes before buying this one, there were some things I noticed, but attributed to the cars characteristics and my lack of familiarity with the car.... Well my mechanic noticed em' too, so it wasn't just my getting use to a 930. (I kinda liked it better when it was me, as that would be a cheaper fix )

There was a clunk everytime I went from 1st to 2nd unless I really let it out smoooothly, I thought was my lousy shifting, but after a spin on the allignment machine, it was diagnosed as the axles/cv that needed rebuilding/replacing. Coming from 20 years of automatic cars, I thought the tricky shifting was me, but it turned out my clutch was in need of serious adjustment as well. Mechanic also didn't like the sound of the motor and thought a valve adjustment was a good place to start and good preventive maintenance. He also thought we might be losing boost as the I/C o-rings looked to be the 19 year old originals and were probably leaking.

So all told, I went for the tow into the shop, a rebuilt CD box, 2 completely new axles and CVs (my choice rather than paying for the parts and labor for reduilding mine), valve adjustment, valve cover gaskets and nuts, intercooler O-rings, Redline 20-50 oil change, several wires and vacuum lines replaced, clutch adjustment.

The car runs smoother and quieter, the clunk is gone and shifting is much less exacting. As far as power, I am sure it will be improved (it was good before) but it was pouring rain here so I had no chance to try. The shifting was touchy before and under heavy acceleration you lost alot going from 2 to 3. That should on it's own help performance.

I have to say I am very happy with Rik from CIM Motorsports in Central Valley, NY. With the price of the parts, gaskets, oil, etc. he is very competitively priced and great to work with.

Now if this rain ever stops I can have some fun! :)