exhaust stud question

[DarinB]

I am installing a set of SSI's and during removal of the exhaust nuts 10 studs came out. I am in the process of replacing them and was curious about the proper method of installation (I have looked in all of my books and can't find it anywhere.) What torque value should they be tightened to?
Thanks in advance.
Darin B

[mb911]

the stud in the head are we talking about?/ I always use locitite 271 for install on those with a straught edge 6 inch rule to determine depth of the others and the one you are replacing

[DarinB]

Thanks Ben. Good idea.

[mb911]

no problem

[rs6er]

Originally posted by DarinB
I am installing a set of SSI's and during removal of the exhaust nuts 10 studs came out. Darin B

Consider yourself quite lucky.

[Nine9six]

Originally posted by rs6er
Consider yourself quite lucky.

Darin,
If there is a lottery in Portland, go buy yourself a ticket!

[DarinB]

LOL.....That's what I hear.

[Early_S_Man]

Darin,

The exhaust port gets way too hot for Loctite to be effective ... since it wil melt the first time you fire up the engine, so don't bother!

Double nuts on the new stud ... 'snug' is good enough, probably 10 -12 lb-ft. If you are using factory exhaust studs with two separate threaded sections, the shorter section goes in the head... it will bottom out.

[mb911]

Originally posted by Early_S_Man
Darin,

The exhaust port gets way too hot for Loctite to be effective ... since it wil melt the first time you fire up the engine, so don't bother!

Double nuts on the new stud ... 'snug' is good enough, probably 10 -12 lb-ft. If you are using factory exhaust studs with two separate threaded sections, the shorter section goes in the head... it will bottom out.

Kind of disagree. In avaition engines they specify loctite for exhaust studs. Now this is one specific manufacturer so it could be different. I believe the 271 loctite releases above 450 degrees and the cht at the plugs is probably 500 at most. Now the flame tip is about 1400-1600 degrees but this takes place typically about 2-5 inches past the valve pocket.. Just MHO I could be wrong but works for me

[cperedina]

I just did the same thing. Replaced several studs. I used silver anti-seize compound. Stuff is supposedly good to 1800F. If it's good enough for aviation spark plugs it should be good enough for automotive exhaust studs.

[rs6er]

I'm curious about this too. I just replaced all my exhaust studs and coated the new ones with Permatex anti-seize. Frankly, I am more concerned with getting them out in the future than keeping them in in the present. Don't the torqued fasteners on the heat exchangers keep the studs from backing out on their own?

[mb911]

Originally posted by rs6er
I'm curious about this too. I just replaced all my exhaust studs and coated the new ones with Permatex anti-seize. Frankly, I am more concerned with getting them out in the future than keeping them in in the present. Don't the torqued fasteners on the heat exchangers keep the studs from backing out on their own?

very true

[Tim Hancock]

I "Never-Siezed" mine also. I really do not think it matters whether you put them in dry or not. My hope was that if they ever had to come out again, that maybe they would rotate out as opposed to snapping off.

[rs6er]

Amen to that!!!!!