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$14 bump steer from Pelican...any good??

Does the $14 bump steer kit from Pelican really work. I use my car for just commuting and runnign errands so no AX involved. I get some heavy bump steering when going over the rough stuff and I was looking at the bump sterr kits. It looks like the cheap $14 one may be all I need and it does not seem to difficult to install.

Will I need an alignment when done?

Who has used this and how well does it fix the bump steer problem?

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Currently own:
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1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:07 AM
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Bump steer washers are only about 12mm ( or so) thick. Works well if you lower no more than 12mm and wish to "regain" the OEM amount of bump-steer. May need toe correction after this is done. Thicker washers don't work because there isn't any more room.

Do a search and don't forget to loosen/tighten the steering shaft universals since you're re-locating the rack.

- Wil
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Wil Ferch
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:32 AM
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I just lowered my car quiet a bit and afterwards installed a bump steer kit. It made a world of difference. It is worth it if the rack is out of it's optimum geometry.
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:13 AM
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I lowered my front to 25 1/2 and it eliminated my bump steer. Yes you need to get it aligned after you install them. Pretty easy install and ditto on Wil's comments to losen/tighten the steering shaft in your smugglers box.
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Old 07-31-2006, 11:19 AM
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My front end seems to be riding high and I'm thinking my bump steer could be because it is sitting too high. What is the normal ride height in the front and how do I measure it?
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Currently own:
1980 911SC slantnose
1991 Honda Accord -daily driver (1991 Honda Accord #2 - just because)
2003 Acura TL Type-S (2006 Honda Odyssey w/ DVD)

Gone but missed:
1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
1987 Chevy Corvette (1996 Mustang Cobra)
1993 Jeep Wrangler (1995 Mustang GT Conv.)
2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac (1987 BMW M6)


Future: Hopefully not too far off
Ferrari Testarossa (Lamboghini Diablo or Countach)
Detomaso Pantera
Old 07-31-2006, 12:22 PM
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The preferred height is the Euro height of 25 1/2" in front and 25" inch in the rear as measured from the ground to the top of the wheel arches.
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Old 07-31-2006, 12:27 PM
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Funny, though.....Euro height is ~ 25.5" front fender lip measurement...and the Euro cars don't have spacers. You "keep" the bump-steer you would have if at Euro height originally....if you lower 12mm further *and* use 12mm rack spacers. Any lower and you have a "mismatch" but it still might be an improvement vs not doing it at all.

Funny in that some people lower to Euro..and still use spacers. Tells me the factory setting was sub-optimal from a bump-steer standpoint.

- Wil
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Old 07-31-2006, 12:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by Wil Ferch
Funny, though.....Euro height is ~ 25.5" front fender lip measurement...and the Euro cars don't have spacers. You "keep" the bump-steer you would have if at Euro height originally....if you lower 12mm further *and* use 12mm rack spacers. Any lower and you have a "mismatch" but it still might be an improvement vs not doing it at all.

Funny in that some people lower to Euro..and still use spacers. Tells me the factory setting was sub-optimal from a bump-steer standpoint.

- Wil
Never thought of it that way, but I have to agree. Also the comment about the shaft couplings is spot on. On two cars I've lowered, I've had to lengthen the flat on the shaft to compress it far enough to completely be free of any binding. I've never been able to get more than 3/8ths inch of washers in there w/o really tweaking the steering box inshaft bushing holder. 12mm is nearly 1/2 inch, that's a bunch adnI've tweaked it in. I think the Weltmeister kit is something like the 3/8ths I mention, or not hardly worth doing.
Old 07-31-2006, 01:33 PM
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I installed them. They definitely helped. All bump steer is not eliminated, but it made the bump significantly better.

Even after loosening the steering uni, be prepared for significant resistance to raising the rack.
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Old 07-31-2006, 05:26 PM
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Why can't I just go to Home Depot and get some washers and bolts? What size bolts do I need?
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Currently own:
1980 911SC slantnose
1991 Honda Accord -daily driver (1991 Honda Accord #2 - just because)
2003 Acura TL Type-S (2006 Honda Odyssey w/ DVD)

Gone but missed:
1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
1987 Chevy Corvette (1996 Mustang Cobra)
1993 Jeep Wrangler (1995 Mustang GT Conv.)
2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac (1987 BMW M6)


Future: Hopefully not too far off
Ferrari Testarossa (Lamboghini Diablo or Countach)
Detomaso Pantera
Old 07-31-2006, 07:39 PM
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14 bucks for the correct spacers and correct bolts - dont go cheap on us.
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:33 PM
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use thick fender washers and hardened bolts. they're either M8 or M10, just have to check by pulling one out. take it with, then add the additional washer thickness for the new bolt length. if it ends up something funny, like 27mm... well, shorten it from 30, for christ's sake.

steel washer can't be any worse than the aluminum spacers provided, and i don't recall the bolts being anything special in the kit, either... if i'd known, i would have simply went to my local fastner shop.

now, with that being said... go to a fastner shop, not home depot. selection and hardened hardware will be better at a bolt shop.

that's my 2cents. i've got 48 more if you want to go round and round...

i also had difficulty with the steering couplers. turned out both of the u-joints were bad, so i got some good used stuff from parts heaven.

good luck.
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Old 07-31-2006, 08:56 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by kucharskimb
use thick fender washers and hardened bolts. they're either M8 or M10, just have to check by pulling one out. take it with, then add the additional washer thickness for the new bolt length. if it ends up something funny, like 27mm... well, shorten it from 30, for christ's sake.

steel washer can't be any worse than the aluminum spacers provided, and i don't recall the bolts being anything special in the kit, either... if i'd known, i would have simply went to my local fastner shop.

now, with that being said... go to a fastner shop, not home depot. selection and hardened hardware will be better at a bolt shop.

that's my 2cents. i've got 48 more if you want to go round and round...

i also had difficulty with the steering couplers. turned out both of the u-joints were bad, so i got some good used stuff from parts heaven.

good luck.
Or you could just order the kit for 14 bucks.
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Old 07-31-2006, 10:14 PM
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Its not the price, its the lead time to order it. I dont want to wait because I dont even know if I need it yet.
__________________
Currently own:
1980 911SC slantnose
1991 Honda Accord -daily driver (1991 Honda Accord #2 - just because)
2003 Acura TL Type-S (2006 Honda Odyssey w/ DVD)

Gone but missed:
1988 Mazda RX-7 Turbo II (1991 Jeep Wrangler Renegade)
1984 Jeep CJ-7 (1994 Chevy Blazer)
1987 Chevy Corvette (1996 Mustang Cobra)
1993 Jeep Wrangler (1995 Mustang GT Conv.)
2003 Ford Explorer Sport Trac (1987 BMW M6)


Future: Hopefully not too far off
Ferrari Testarossa (Lamboghini Diablo or Countach)
Detomaso Pantera
Old 08-01-2006, 08:27 AM
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I had lowered my car to Euro height ages ago. The mechanic told me there was no room for the steering rack spacer. I recently had my mechanic (different one) install steering rack spacer and turbo tierods and allign. When I got it back there was no bumpsteer but the front of the car was higher. I guess the original mechanic was right.
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Original owner '81 911SC blackmetallic coupe. Terbatrol, SSI, M+K Gen 4, SC+ cams, A/C delete, console delete, heater backdate, 7 & 8 x 16 Fuchs with polished rims, Turbo tie rods, tensioner update, Rennline engine mount bar, Mainely Custom sump plate, new top-end, corner balance.
Old 08-01-2006, 11:12 AM
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If you don't order the kit, good luck on finding the right length bolt. The normal hardware store selection has bolts too short and too long (that bottom out). Ask me how I know.

Old 08-01-2006, 04:54 PM
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