brake pads-getting ready for DE

[rfuerst911sc]

I will be doing my first DE next month and I think my front brake pads need to be replaced I'm checking them this weekend. If they need replacement what pad do you guys recommend for street and occasional AX + DE and that our host sells? Car is a 83SC with stock rotors and calipers. Thanks

[boyt911sc]

RFuerst911sc,

If you are doing your first DE/AX, stock brake pads (Pagid) will be fine. Brake pads less than 50% of original thickness are recommended for replacement. Your stock set up will be OK and not worry too much.

Enjoy your first DE/AX and have FUN.

Tony

[dad911]

For first event I would use stock pads. Be sure to flush the sysem with new brake fluid.

[Jim Smolka]

Hawk HP pads are another good option. Some folks like ATE Blue brake fluid as well. There are better fluids available, but the ATE stuff works well and is relatively cheap.

[jwetering]

Originally posted by dad911
For first event I would use stock pads. Be sure to flush the sysem with new brake fluid.

+1 on the fluid flush. That will make the difference between decent brakes after a few laps and NO brakes after a few laps. In case you didn't know, a track day will heat your brakes hotter than they will ever see on the street - like wwwaaayyy hotter. Contaminated or low quality fluid will boil, gas bubbles will form in the brake lines, and your pedal will sink to the floor. The good news is that pumping the devil out of your brakes will bring back enough of a pedal to slow the car down, but it can spoil your first track day that's for sure....ask me how I know.

I've had great luck with Motul, but only satisfactory luck with ATE blue. The blue is fine for the street and a light track day, but no comparison with the Motul. You shouldn't lose your brakes at an autocross though - they don't get used enough.

FWIW I use the pagid street pads, and they hold up fine on the track and behave normally on the street.

Have fun, be careful

[aigel]

Metal master are stock type pads and they are sold here and cheap. They will get used up quick, but your rotors stay nice! I used these for a long tme. They are okay, if you don't mind the dust.

I bleed brakes before every track event. Get a power bleeder and get used to the routine. It is a good idea to take all four wheels off before a track event and carefully inspect the suspension and brakes anyway.

Also, if you replace the brake fluid, it may be a good time to go with DOT steel braided hoses, if your rubber hoses are old. (more than 5 years old).

George

[Dixie]

Good advice so far. Especially on running a good, fresh, barke fluid. As for pads, if you have over 50% of your pads left, you'll be fine for your first DE. But if you need to replace them, I'd recommenmd Hawk HP+ pads all around.

[rfuerst911sc]

Thanks guys. My suspension is up to snuff as it has been rebuilt recently with new bushings,torsion bars and sways but the brake lines are still the rubber ones and I'll visually inspect them this weekend. I do own a Motive power bleeder and have been useing the ATE blue fluid. I replaced the front rotors 2 years ago ( 7K miles since ) along with the pads ( Mintex ) and full fluid flush so I'm due at least for another flush. I'll check the rears also. This is my 1st DE do you guys have a pre-race inspection done by your mechanic as a precaution? Is it a requirement? Just don't want to miss anything obvious as Sebrings walls don't look too forgiving!!

[WPOZZZ]

PCA isn't very active with HPDEs in Honolulu. However, I run the BMWCCA HPDEs and all cars must be teched prior to the event. Go in there with an open mind and remember to breathe.

[tonythetarga]

Check with your registrar for the event. Usually there is a Tech Inspection form that will need to be completed by a shop (usually one authorized by the club for DE's) and there is also usually a medical form that asks for basic medical/emergency info.

[SRL84Car]

I did this a couple of weekends ago after a lot of research, here are my choices:

Porterfield R4-S pads - do all four, not just the front for lots of reasons.
Stop-Tech - SS brake lines, great pieces.
ATE blue fluid
Bed the pads using the method on the Stop-Tech website.

It all went on smoothly and works great.

[JeremyD]

If you are doing sebring - then I am going to recommend a real track pad - like either the hawk blues or porterfield r4. I am also going to recommend motul 600. Flush your brakes a few days (not weeks) before the event. Lots of humidity in florida - and since the brake fluid absorbs water - the closer to the event that you can flush your brakes, the better off you will be.

Sebring is a great learning track, there's plenty of run offs, it's wide and fast. It also can eat your brakes at an alarming rate and there is nothing quite like going into the hairpin and having your brake pedal go all the way to the floor. It tends to curb the learning process.

[sfoster13]

Be prepared to get hopelessly hooked and then start asking questions like the one I asked here:

Brake Fade

[aigel]

I disagree with Jeremy. For a first track event, you will not need race pads. You will be fairly slow and getting maximum breaking power is not the goal.

As far as tech goes, the club running the event will have clear rules. Some clubs have you self tech, others want a shop to look it over.

George

[wfbal]

The way to go is to buy the new GT3 RS, I'm sure the stock brakes will be just fine.
I hear the green ones are the fastest!

Otherwise, stock pad should be OK for your first event (unless you are an ex F1 driver).

For later, I would stay away from the ATE blue stuff (this is what I'm using right now) go directly to the motul 600 (this what i will do soon).

I had good results with Hawk HP+, but my track (Tremblant, Qc, Canada) is easy on brakes

[MotoSook]

Ferodo DS2500 or PF97 pads. Rick's car is set up pretty nicely. If it's a long day...and he learns quickly, he might start to run out of brakes if the current pads are not new. The DS2500 or PF97's make for a good street pad too, so there'll be no need to swap them out after the track day.

[JeremyD]

Originally posted by aigel
I disagree with Jeremy. For a first track event, you will not need race pads. You will be fairly slow and getting maximum breaking power is not the goal.

As far as tech goes, the club running the event will have clear rules. Some clubs have you self tech, others want a shop to look it over.

George

And I normally would say fine with that too - but if we are talking about Sebring - Sebring is brutal on brakes.

It's not much fun comeing home metal on metal. Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.

[JeremyD]

And yes to all you doubters - I ran out of brakes after the 2nd session on the 1st day. Carrera brakes are bigger than SC brakes, yes, driving styles will differ, your results may vary.

Pretty sure these were metal masters.

From now on, you can refer to me as Nigel Mansell, check that - Sir Nigel Mansell.

[Craig 930 RS]

My 2 cents - (I am a Pagid dealer - for 3 1/2 yrs):

*Carrera brakes have thicker rotors (and a wider spread caliper of course) for more heat capacity, otherwise they are identical brakes & pads

*Sebring, hot weather, 1st time? Better have that fresh fluid - it is a MUST. I'd really recommend track pads...the streets will wear exceedingly quickly. I have found Metalmasters are decent for 1st timers.....but it depends. Above all, be certain they are nearly full thickness.

Many people have had horrible experiences with Hawk.
PF is a nice pad, Pagids are the top dog....and expensive.

Me? I'd use Pagid Oranges, ATE or Motul, look the entire car over yourself and get an inspection.

[cbeers]

The DS2500 or PF97's make for a good street pad too, so there'll be no need to swap them out after the track day.

+1

I did these before my first track day based on Souk's nod.

They are very good compared to stock. A little squeaky around town, but very good overall. My first DE was at Sears Point and I barely even wore them down at all. Can you say S-L-O-W newbie driver??




-Chris