gear oil leaking

Is it possible to repair a transaxle leak without removing it? The oil looks to be coming out the front of the transaxle.

Anybody got an idea of what to do?

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By the front, do you mean the nose cone, where the shift rod comes out? I have replaced the damaged boot around the shift rod by loosening the four motor/transaxle mounts and the shift coupler, then dropping the engine/transaxle unit 3"-6", so I suppose you could use a similar method to replace either the seal around the shift rod, or the gasket for the 'nose cone'. Can you tell if it is leaking at the gasket or the shift rod seal? Or, could it be the back-up light switch that is leaking?

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren, I don't really know where it is leaking. How can I systematically check and fix the leaks. Got any suggestions? Thanks Mark

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You may be able to isolate the leak by cleaning the nosecone area gasket 'joint' area thoroughly and letting the car sit overnight, then checking for seepage the next day. I seriously doubt that the seal around the shift rod is the problem. What I have personally seen on several VW and Porsche 901 and 915 transaxles with leaking nosecones is loose nuts around the nosecone! My best suggestion is to get some six-point sockets and a small ratchet and go around slowly and very gently (I think there are two different sizes of nuts, but I could be wrong) checking for tightness -- first pass is just to CHECK, not actually tighten the nuts! Make a sketch of the nut pattern around the nosecone and mark which ones are loose and which ones are tight! Start with a 'tight' nut and completely remove and clean with carb. cleaner or some kind of degreaser, and THOROUGHLY clean the exposed stud and surrounding area! Next, remove a nut opposite across, not adjacent, and clean the same way! Get some Loctite Blue or other thread sealer (regular, NOT the super-stud sealer) Make sure nut and stud are completely dry, and apply thread lock to studs, not too much, and put the nuts back on finger tight, then tighten in 5 lb-ft stages with a torque wrench, alternating the nuts, back and forth the way wheel lug nuts are supposed to be done. The next pair should be oriented 90 degrees to the pair just completed, remove, clean, and apply thread lock, and torque back in place the same way. Next, find a pair 45 degrees away (or approximate) or half way, and do the same routine cleaning, thread lock, and torque. Repeat until all nuts are done, and mark off the 'done' nuts on your sketch as they are done! Be SURE you have all of the nuts on the diagram, and if you happen to have some of the orange, copper, or blue silicone sealant, you may want to put a small 'dab' on the end of studs 'done' ... as you go to be absolutely sure you don't miss any or accidentally remove a nut that has already been 'sealed and torqued'!!! I suggest a Q-tip for applying the marker silicone to the ends of the studs, as you don't want much, just enough to clearly see which are 'done' and which aren't. This procedure has worked for me in 'most' cases of a small 'oozing' type annoying leak, not serious ones! Good luck!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Warren, It is confirmed. You are a scientist. I feel as though I have access to a Porsche mechanic for free!

Not only for my postings but I've learned as much if not more from your answers to others. Thanks for contributing so much to this board. See Ya Mark

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