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aftermath's Avatar
 
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is my front suspension broken?

See pic, this part that my thumb is on moves up and down 1/4 inch on the passenger side, doesnt move at all on the drivers side

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Old 08-04-2006, 06:52 PM
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That piece is your front ride height adjuster for your torsion bar. If that part moves while your car is sitting on its suspension on the ground, I'd say you have a broken torsion bar. Is the suspension sagging on that side? Did something happen suddenly?

JA
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Old 08-04-2006, 07:04 PM
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It will move easily with the weight lifted from the front end. Especially so if your car is lower than standard height.

Kurt Williams
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Old 08-04-2006, 08:32 PM
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aftermath,

I am wondering if you have somehow relieved the spring pressure the torsion bar exerts? For example, if the car is jacked up under the frame, do you also have something holding up that right wheel/tire, or is it in full droop?

Using a 7/16" socket, try turning that adjuster screw a couple of revolutions, and then test again for the looseness you describe. report back.

Ed LoPresti
Old 08-04-2006, 08:37 PM
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does it move with the car sitting on it's wheels?

when you move it, does that cap move too?
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Old 08-04-2006, 09:29 PM
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Hi, thanks for the replies. Ive never driven the car yet, bought it without engine. Right now its jacked up off the ground. I wont be putting it back on the ground for a while, so its will be a bit to see what it does when back on the ground. I dont know the ride height, car has seen track time, euro car, but car was level. When I push on the adjuster screw, the round cap ( seen in picture ) also moves up and down.
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Old 08-06-2006, 12:32 PM
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please don't use an 7/16th wrench on the adjusting bolt. These cars are metric and should be maintained as such. Use an 11mm.
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Old 08-06-2006, 12:51 PM
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I still think the car has a broken T-bar.
Old 08-06-2006, 01:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by bkreigsr
please don't use an 7/16th wrench on the adjusting bolt. These cars are metric and should be maintained as such. Use an 11mm.
If you have to tell him this, HE SHOULD BE TAKING THE CAR TO A PORSCHE MECHANIC.

Old 08-06-2006, 01:44 PM
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Quote:
If you have to tell him this, HE SHOULD BE TAKING THE CAR TO A PORSCHE MECHANIC.
Who is the "He" you are talking about? The original poster, aftermath, mentioned nothing about using any wrench. In fact, RaceProEngineer mentioned it.
Old 08-06-2006, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 450knotOffice
Who is the "He" you are talking about? The original poster, aftermath, mentioned nothing about using any wrench. In fact, RaceProEngineer mentioned it.
RaceProEngineer.

Although, if Aftermath follows that guy's advice, he should then follow mine.
Old 08-06-2006, 01:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by 450knotOffice
I still think the car has a broken T-bar.
If the torsion bar is broken, is that coner colapsed completely? just curious.
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Old 08-06-2006, 01:58 PM
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(Edited because I misunderstood your question the first time I read it)

I honestly don't know how far it would collapse, but obviously the strut would take up the weight and probably bottom out.

Last edited by 450knotOffice; 08-06-2006 at 02:10 PM..
Old 08-06-2006, 02:04 PM
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"RaceProEngineer" a term used rather loosly by Mr. Ed LoPresti
I wonder if Ed Lo is any relation to Jaylo?!?
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Old 08-06-2006, 03:29 PM
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Gentlemen,

We are talking about using a socket to turn a simple adjusting bolt, not honing the tolerance on a cylinder wall!

But for those who are so quick to criticize, and without looking it up, EXACTLY what is the difference, other than symantics, between 7/16 inch and 11mm? (No peeking now!)

Ed
Old 08-06-2006, 10:31 PM
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About .11 of a mmm give or take Just havin some fun!

Cheers
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Old 08-06-2006, 10:49 PM
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Quote:
Originally posted by RaceProEngineer
Gentlemen,

We are talking about using a socket to turn a simple adjusting bolt, not honing the tolerance on a cylinder wall!

But for those who are so quick to criticize, and without looking it up, EXACTLY what is the difference, other than symantics, between 7/16 inch and 11mm? (No peeking now!)

Ed
The EXACT difference is the inevitable rounded corners on the hex heads from using the WRONG TOOL FOR THE JOB.

And while we're on the topic:

Following your logic, there's no good reason that a person should use a 13mm wrench when a 14mm almost fits. Forget the fact that IT IS THE WRONG TOOL. In fact, why not just use a pipe wrench?

Why use bolts with metric threads when you can force a bolt with standard threads into the same hole? It almost fits right. Who cares if it's THE WRONG PART?

Why not use wood screws instead of sheet metal screws? After all, they are both screws...

Sheesh ...
Old 08-06-2006, 11:09 PM
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if the looseness in the adjustment bolt when the car is on jacks really bothers you, remove the cap and re-index the end so all the slack is taken out. you will also gain the benefit of having the adjuster sit in the middle of the bolt again, like it was before the car was set to euro height.
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Old 08-07-2006, 03:15 AM
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I just experienced the same thing and had the same question. When I had the front end and wheels off the ground the ride height adjuster was loose on the passenger side only. When it came off the jacks and the car was resting on the ground, all the slack disappeared. The tip of the adjuster bolt was resting on its pad.

The only conclusion that myself and a good friend of mine came up with after reindexing/setting up ride heights in the front was it depends on the indexing of the TB's. It could very well be normal. If the ride height adjustor cap itself can be moved with the car on the ground I would think you might have a problem with the TB.

The ride height adjuster is only good for approximately .25 up or down of the final ride height. The initial first ride height is all in the indexing of the TBs.

In my limited and humbled experience I'd leave it alone until you get the car together on level ground and take ride height measurements. Also make sure you roll the car back and forth after getting it back on the ground so the suspension settles. You'd be surprised how much the ride height changes.

Dan

Last edited by pantera; 08-07-2006 at 06:34 AM..
Old 08-07-2006, 06:28 AM
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Vehicle weight on or off, doesn't matter. The end of the tbar should not move up and down with finger pressure.

I suspect a broken tbar. Easily checked.

With the vehicle raised, remove the adjuster cap and slide the tbar out for inspection.

You can accurately restore its position by marking the cap position before removing, then count the number of wrench rotations needed to withdraw the adjuster screw.

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Old 08-07-2006, 07:32 AM
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