E or S cams in a stock T engine.

Hi gyes
I have a 71 2.2 T Targa it has webers and is completly stock. I am thinknig of performing a some performance upgrades. Have any of you tryed to put an E or S cam in an engine like mine ? Would i need to change the venturis ect. in my webers ?. How much power could i expect ? (cr 2.2 T = 8.5:1)
I have acces to a set of heads from a 2.4 S. They need new valves and valve guides. Would it improve the performance of my engine to install these insted of my 2.2 T heads ?

Peter.

Actually, you have several routes you could go, and all are probably relatively easy to xeperiment with because of the Webers tuanability, it just deprnds on your own needs and willingness to pay attention to small details and fine-tune. The first question that comes to mind is, have you ever driven an early 'S' car? If you have, and can honestly say you could easily adapt to the power band, and 'peakiness' of the the engine, then by all means, get the 2.4S heads and cams! But, if you haven't driven an 'S' ... I strongly suggest a little more research and reading before you commit to that path, because an 'E' engine's flexibility is 'better' than and 'S' and less risky from where you are now, for a couple of reasons: The 'T' and 'E' engines used the same crank and rods, and they were not 'Nitrided' like the 'S' components. The 'T' and 'E' pistons were cast, not forged as the 'S' versions, so logically use of the 'bottom end' of your stock engine might be risky above the 7100 rpm rev limit of the rev-limiting rotor for the 'E' engine ... just a cautionary thought, not an actual concern based on any real-world bad experiences, because I know the time spent at max revs is limited axcept, maybe for a 24-hour endurance race!

To get maximum benefits from those 2.4S heads you would HAVE to port-match your Weber manifolds to the 'S' heads, and go to larger venturis ... Bruce Anderson covers the calculation of venturi sizes in his 'Porsche 911 Performance Handbook' and I strongly suggest you get a copy and do some thorough readind BEFORE you proceed with this project! You really can't expect to get much better than about 10-14 hp less than the 2.2 'E' engine with carburetors, even with port matching, perfect jetting and venturi sizing, unless you switch to the 'E' pistons, and 2.4S pistons and cyl. would be a better choice! I notice you also have a 2.7 CIS engine ... don't you think that would be a better cantidate for the 2.4S heads and cams and Webers. A set of 'E' cams and Webers might even be a more flexible engine with plenty of torque! One thing you should consider before proceeding with this project is a close-ratio transaxle, either by modifying one of the ones you currently have, since I have found factory gearing of the 911 is almost perfectly-matched to 'T' engine characteristics, and less so to the 'E' and 'S' torque curves! Any further questions or dialogue is welcomed!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

He doesn't say anything about pistons. Can you use "T" pistons with an "E" or in particular"S" cam?

Bruce

He doesn't say anything about pistons. Can you use "T" pistons with an "E" or in particular"S" cam?

Bruce

Thanks for your replyes.

No i have never driven an erly Sī. I have driven some E models.
I think the best would be to keep everything stock and put in af set of E cams. My car is quite original and i would like to keep it that way, but with a little extra HP. Do i have to change the webers fit the E cams ? Were is the best place to by cams ? The only place i have found was www.motormeister.com. I thing they asked around 350 US dollar for at set of "Factory grind cams" Does annyone have good or bad experiences with thes cams?
Could I expect 140 - 150 HP with this setup? Hov much would be gained by adding SSI heaters and a sport mufler + KN airfilter.

The thing about the gearbox match is somthing i havent thought of. Is it a big problem ? The
T has Max torque at 4200 prm and the E at 4500 rpm. Not to different. The max pover is 125 hp at 5800 rpm for the T and 155 hp at 6200 rpm. What is the rev limet on my T engine

First off Peter and Warren both gave very good advise.

If you have a 2.2 T your door is very open for Performance mods (If you have carbs Webers or Zeniths).

This is the budget way of adding some more punch with out a PUNCH from your significant other .

Three main mods in question>

Compression:
If you want to take your 2.2T 8.6;1 to 2.2E compression then just fly cut the heads and that will bump it to 9.1:1 fly cutting heads is very affrodable around $200.00 look around local and you might find it cheaper, and it also gives you a better matting surface.

Camshafts:
It is simple
T's are for all around touring but kinda flat for power
E's are for bottom end, but run out of breath at top end
S's are for Top end and takes a very aggresive drive to run the car on that high of a RPM's and lack on the bottom end.
Solex is right in the middle of the E's and S's, they are OUR most popular cams on 2.2's and even 2.7's

Cams
L & R 1965-66 Solex
a. Center lube cam
b. Great midrange power through out
c. Intake duration and lift, 244 deg .439 in.
d. Exhaust duration and lift, 234 deg 406 in.
L & R "Factory L"
a. Great midrange power through out
b. Intake duartion and lift, 244 deg .439 in.
c. Exhaust duration and lift, 234 deg .406 in.
L & R "Factory T"
a. Very mild and smooth came for touring
b. Carberated and MFI
c. Intake duration and lift 216 deg .387 in.
d. Exhaust duration and lift 207 deg .345 in.
L & R "Factory E"
a. Great bottom end, popular for Autocross
b. Carburetor and MFI
c. Intake duration and lift 229 deg .408 in.
d. Exhaust duration and lift 223 deg .393. in.
L & R "Factory S"
a. Great top end, power band comes on late good for Time Trails
b. Carberated and MFI
c. Intake duration and lift 267 deg .459 in.
d. Exhaust duration and intake 235 deg .396 in.
L & R " Factory 906"
a. Full out Road racing cam
b. Intake duration and lift 281 deg .462 in.
c. Exhaust duration and lift 251 deg .403 in.

Heads:
Sounds like you have some nice heads but like it was already posted, you will need to port and polish the manifolds to match your heads.

NOW, for more fun

Recurve that dist. to the correct application

Re-jet and venturie your carbs

Light weight clutch for better spooling up of the motor, BUT a 2.2 non-counterweight crankshaft will spool up pretty fast already.

Performance muffler????

You already have headers factory so leave them alone.

Your transmission is already low geared, leave IT alone.

Woops, hit the enter button and it sent the message I was not done yet though , sorry.

One note, do not just look at an 911S's HP and shoot for that, WHAT you ned to think about is WHAT you are going to use the car for #1 and what is you budget #2.

There are many nice and big $$$$ parts, but BIGGER is NOT always better, and what one Porsche owners likes may be differant then what YOU will like and want in the long run.

Also do NOT for get to "TIME SERT" this motor, we have been seeing the studs pulling on 2.2's and 2.4's now since the cases are getting tired and mostly on the birol cylinders.

Also on the note of the camshafts we sell, they reground to the correct specs just like they where when they where made new. Just make sure when you but a camshaft or recieve yoru camshafts on ANY Porsche the lobes need to be dark black, NOT shinny, if they are shinny they are NOT parkarized. When the camshafts have been parkarized they will hold on to the oil, after time the coating will wear, but in breaking in camshafts this is the best way.

Hope this helps.

Roy at http://www.motormeister.com