Nuts & bolts restoration...

I've seen lots of restored cars claiming "nuts and bolts" restoration. But the big question in my mind is...how are the nuts & bolts restored?

I've got a car that I'm taking apart and restoring piece by piece, while trying not to venture too far from driveability. While the suspension is off and being powder coated or painted, what should I do with the nuts and bolts?

Painting or powder coating seems too thick for threaded parts. Cad plating could get expensive after a while, and can't be done at home. Replacing all the nuts and bolts will also be expensive...are there other options out there I'm not aware of?

No this isn't a "classic" restoration, so time and money must both be saved. Thanks!

-Boyo

Sure, cad plating is expensive, but most likely because of EPA restrictions and compliance, I'm sure! There are less expensive alternatives, nickel and chrome being two, but not two original looking! But, stainless bolts and nuts are available in common metric sizes from Metric & Multi-Standard Components, Corp. ... a supplier your local bolt store SHOULD be familiar, though you can buy from them direct, I have for over 20 years! Major cities NYC, Dallas, Chicago have offices, and their catalogs are pretty handy to have around!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

[This message has been edited by Early_S_Man (edited 03-28-2000).]

Original parts or look isn't important in this restoration - concentrating on trying to get the car driveable quickly, long term reliability, cost, and maybe *improved* looks.

Will probably do some crazy color schemes with the suspension and brake components. Stainless bolts might complement this well. Thanks!

-Boyo

While I'm sure certain fasteners are made of special alloys for good reason and should not be changed, the suspension seems like a very good place for stainless steel. Stainless steel is cool stuff. No rust/corrosion. If you want to spend the money. I would and I'm a cheapskate.

A couple of things 2 consider...
You can have the nuts and bolts lightly sand blasted for cheap $$. but be sure to wash then vigorously afterward to remove the blasting bead from the threads.

Do not be carefree when replacing automotive bolts with stainless for several reasons.
1) Stainless bolts are not graded for tensile and shear strength the same like carbon bolts are. Failure in the wrong spot could mean disaster.
2) Always use Never-Seize when using stainless hardware. Stainless galds easily.
3) Stainless may be harder than some lower grade bolts, making them difficult to remove with an easy-out if they break.
4) Be careful about cross metal corrosion when installing stainless hardware on carbon parts. This is so prevelant that ASME code says you must never use a sanding wheel to sand stainless after carbon as Iron will be deposited in the pores of the stainless, accelerating corrosion.
5) Stainless will rust and corrode in presence of chlorides. (road salt). The process is accelerated by heat and low pH (acid rain). Under 180 deg F, they should last quite a while, but I would think about this before I'd put them on my heat exchangers in Buffalo.
6) Last, but not least, impact tools should NEVER be used with stainless bolts due to their fastening speed and the heat buildup in the threads. Impacts can gald a stailess bolt before it gets tight.

I am not trying to discourage you from sub-ing stainless hardware. However I have worked with stainless machinery in corrosive environments for roughly 10 years, and have seen my fair share of corrosion/shear issues.
I would only say that you should consider the application before a wholesale change.