Again, thanks for all the info and comments!

I looked for the 930s wheel here and it's unavailable? Also, the pics I saw before had the Porsche emblem added, but on yours it looks like it was made as part of it? Is that available some where?

As for the paint code, it looks like it's L33X, but it didn't come up on one of the sites someone posted in this thread earlier...am I reading the code right? Also, is there some place I can interpret all the other codes? option codes, etc? This is all new to me...

Thanks again!

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1156007554.jpg

Nice color. Welcome to the board.

Even though there is a color code shown on the underside hood paper sticker that you illustrate....

...go to the front of the car...trunk area...(maybe have to lift a portion of the carpet) and look at the VERTICAL wall near the inner fender very close to the front of the car...there is a hard silver-metallic sticker with two possible interpretations of the paint code.

For example...my '85 shows paint code silver metallic 936...but also shows S7.....

- Wil

The steering wheel is a Porsche part that comes from their "Tequipment" line of products which are available from your local Porsche dealer or anyone who distributes OEM Porsche parts...:)

The one found in the online Pelican catalog is an aftermarket unit and not the original Porsche unit. I'm sure if you called Pelican and provided them the part number and/or what you were looking for, they would be able to source it for you...but be warned it's not cheap!

The crest is embossed as part of the wheel, it is not added on later. The reproduction wheels sold by many aftermarket tuners are similar in appearance but don't have the embossed crest. Some choose to add their own crest.

Your Carrera's options are as follows (taken from Porsche PET):

018 - sport steering wheel with elevated hub (30mm)

158 - Blaupunkt Monterey radio

241 - shorter shifting travel

383 - Driver Sport Seat w/ electric vertical adjustable

387 - Passenger Sport Seat w/ electric vertical adjustable

395 - 16" forged wheels

474 - Front & Rear sport shocks

533 - anti theft device

Back in the '80's when these cars were new the "hot" steering wheels to have on a Carrera or 930 were the Fittipaldi or Momo Monte Carlo. I think the Monte Carlo can still be found through Momo but not sure about the Fittipaldi.

Run a search, you'll find a variety of information on steering wheels...:)

Ralph

Check into "Electrical fires". There are some very easy fixes to your imperfectly designed wiring that you can do to your car to minimize your chances of an electrical fire.

It happens, it's scary and I know about it first hand.

Check out "inline fuses" via a search in this forum.

that looks like the real 930S wheel to me - add my name to the search and it should pop up a bunch of comparison pics I did

- You scored a real nce car

- for the abraded leather color - dye it and wear old clothes for a week or two when driving...

Thanks for all the info guys! And I really appreciate the code interpretations Ralph!

I looked under the carpet in the trunk and found the sticker with the paint code. It had..

347 9 2
DUNKELBLAU
K5

When I looked up "347" on one of the links given to me before it just came up as "dark blue". Is that correct? Or is there more to it?

I actually like those steering wheel suggestions you gave (Fittipaldi or Monte Carlo) better than the 930S. Are there any others I should consider?

Thanks again!

What a beautiful car!

Welcome to the Board.

I think you'll find the color to be Prussian Blue. That's the 33X on the option sticker. That was the color of my '85 928. It's an unusual one.

JR

Welcome to the board. I had a similar issue with my seats and I redyed them using products from leatherique - http://www.leatherique.com - their web site is very informative. The other thing I did was swap my drivers side and passengers side seats to even out the wear. I also went through a similar thought process on the auto-x, DE, show car. I've done them all, and not very well, but had a blast. Wons ome local PCA shows but the most enjoyable has been the auto-x's and DE's. the biggest bang for my buck has definitely been the autocrossing.

Enjoy the car and welcome!

Nice car!
I'm wondering if you have been informed of the oil level guidelines for your 911. Maybe this is a mute point, and I don't mean to question your knowledge, but one just can't know from this end. :)
If you've not been informed, here you go:
Get the car warmed up, leave it running, and on level ground, then check the dipstick. If you see the level near the high mark, it may be the reason for your "leak."
The oil level should always be pretty much in the middle of the two marks on the stick, allowing for the oil to expand as its warms. Too high a level, and out she comes....
If you have only driven about 400 miles, it is possible that the dealership overfilled, and probably it would be still overfilled, so at running temperature it leaks out. My Targa did exactly that when I first got it, obviously overfilled, and after about 500 miles, I never saw another drop. I have put an additional 2,100 more miles on her now, and all is well.
Maybe you can be lucky and that is all that is wrong?
SmileWavy

Neslar, by no means should you apologize for questioning knowledge...better to be safe than sorry, and I'm not afraid to admit that my knowledge is a big 'zero' when it comes to these cars, but I'm not afraid to get my hands dirty.

I hate to admit this, :rolleyes: but I haven't checked the oil yet. I wanted to do a little more reading in the book first and get a little more familiar with things. But I have been watching the oil guage every time I drive it. Once it gets warmed up, the guage points up at the top. I've tried to do some searching to find out where it should optimally point to, but no luck yet. Should it always point to the top if it has enough oil?

I guess I have homework now...check the oil this weekend...


:D

Beautiful car and welcome to the board. I had an '87 and have a large soft spot in my heart for mid-80's Carreras. Love the wheels (period correct), sports seats, etc. While you could re-dye the leather, an auto upholstery repair guy will use a flexible paint from SEM to fix that. It won't last forever, but will pass the quick visual test. However, since you said you might also want to show the car, you might want to look into a more correct repair.

www.carcareonline.com has a good article on how to repair stone chips. The first time you use a 2000 grit block on your paint takes a deep breath, but when it buffs out and you can't find the original chip makes it all worthwhile.

Stay ahead of the big safety stuff (brake fluid, caliper seals, brake lines, tie rods) early - or you may have records from the previous owner. Then enjoy the car!

Don

Radiosimon: Always trust the dipstick marks and learn to ignore the oil level gauge, it jumps around alot as the tank level changes during acceleration, lifting off and cornering.

Check and adjust the oil level like this:
1. Fully warm up the car (short drive).
2. Park on dead level surface.
3. Check with engine running at factory idle speed.
4. Correct oil level is halfway between marks.
5. Oil volume between marks is about 1.75 Qts, add accordingly.

If you overfill it can spill onto the right cylinder bank and cause smoking. If you underfill it and drive you can cause accelerated wear to $$engine parts. Check it everytime you drive and the odd behavior of the oil level gauge will not be cause for concern.

If you haven't ordered it already, get Wayne's 101 projects for the 911, available from this very site. It's full of all the basic info you need to know about your car. Plus, Wayne needs the money what with those kids and the 917 he's building from spares. ;)

The gauge will show the level of the oil in the tank. You'll get a miilion people telling you to not trust the gauge, only the dipstick. In fact, you can use the gauge once you know a little about your car.

Porsche specifies that you should check the oil at normal operating temperature, on flat ground, and with the engine idling for at least 30 seconds. This applies to the gauge or stick, either one. There are two marks on the stick. The top mark is the maximum level, the bottom one is the minimum level. As long as you are between these two marks you're in the ballpark. Two things you should know: as the engine temperature increases, or the foaming of the oil increases from high rpm driving, the level will go up at idle. As the engine rpms increase, the oil level in the tank will drop. This latter point will be obvious from the gauge, if not the stick.

If you set your oil level in the tank too high, oil may get spit out of the breather into the airbox, which isn't good. Consequently, most people will advise not filling the tank all the way to the top mark. I say experiment a little and learn how much the level rises with increased temps. If you do not exceed the top mark at the highest temperature you'll ever see, you should be fine. After you have lived with the car through a summer, you'll know how high to fill it. I fill mine near the top.

Having said all that, once you know where you are in relation to the dipstick, observe the gauge. Observe it when the tank is full, after an oil change and take a look at the reading just prior to topping up the tank, say after a long trip or between oil changes. You'll get a feel for how the oil level on the gauge relates to the one on the stick. Once you have that in your mind, you can use the gauge to monitor the oil level. I do it every time I drive one of my cars. You can even do it when running down the road, as you'll find out. It's part of my instrument scan while driving. People will claim their gauges are inaccurate but mine (4 of them) are just fine.

Get to know yours and have fun,

JR

Hello, again!:)
I think that if your gauge goes that high, you are overfilled. Mine hangs around the middle or lower when all warmed up. So this weekend, get it warm, leave it idling on a level spot, and make sure the dipstick shows only 50%-70% between the marks.
Any future leaks might just go away if you get the oil level down to there. Hopefully your car is just getting rid of the excess.
My gauge actually goes down into the red when I'm rolling, but that just means the holding tank is low because the oil has moved into the engine where it needs to be. When I stop and go to idle, the oil goes back to the tank, so the gauge goes back up reading near the middle.
SmileWavy
With that, I think someone has posted a more detailed reply which is probably quite good.

Nice clean ride. The engine compartment looks exceptional.

Thank you all again for sharing your wisdom!

I am now trying to remember just how much the oil guage moves and I don't believe it moves that much. I know the druck press fluctuates, a concept I don't fully understand, but I think that once warmed up the oil guage points mostly towards the top. Maybe it is too full then. Now I'm really anxious to drive it and make notes! If only it weren't raining here today...

That also has me thinking though, the temp guage always points to the top when warmed up, is this correct, errr, what it should do? I should do a search.

Thanks again!

Hey radiosimon. Welcome aboard!

As far as the scuffed up interior leather goes, try using a coat or two or three of good old Kiwi shoe polish. I think the color I use is Navy. The can works better than the liquid IMO.

SmileWavy

Nice clean car. Maybe the mileage IS correct.
Your temp gauge should not be over nine o'clock though.
Post a picture of the gauges with warm engine.