Tips on Removing Exhaust

I am going to remove the exhaust from my 77 2.7. What I am scared of is that the bolts/nuts will be seized. Is this a pretty common occurence? What is the best way to try to remove it without snapping any?

Is there any sprays to use like WD 40?

Should the engine be warm? So there is a little expansion? What about using a propane torch(very carefully) to heat the bolts, if needed?

I would really hate to snap any bolts and have to have them tapped.

Any help would be greatly appreciated

Shawn

When I installed the Borla system I have in now, I was afraid of the same problems. I soaked them the night before with WD 40 and they all came off without a hitch.

If you are talking about removing the heat exchangers from the cylinder heads, forget the WD-40, and get the propane torch, or 'Rosebud' tip for your oxy-acetylene torch! You want to direct the heat onto the side of the nut to minimize heat flow to the stud, and keep the flame moving back and forth until the nut is Cherry-red, first on one side, then the other. Then, put your wrench or Allen-drive on the nut, first tighten slightly, then loosen with steady force, and it should come loose. A long, 8 mm Allen-drive is needed for all pre-'75 heat exchangers, or the SSI systems.

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

When using heat, it is the female part you're trying to heat/expand/enlarge, not the fastener itself. Maltby's Penetrating Oil, sold where diesel mechanics buy parts, is the King of Penetrating Oils.

WD stands for "water displacement, WD-40 is mostly alchol to displace water then a light oil to coat the part. Great for corrosion resistance on boats or wet ignitons but NOT for use as a penetratiing oil. "89911" my guess is you either got lucky or there was a factory anti-sieze compound on the nuts.

Never used the Maltby's, could give it a try. My personal favorite is PB Blaster or heat.

Agreed. Heat is best, particularly for exhaust stuff. I like Warren's method. He's been practicing I think.

Thanks for the replies, I am going to use the heat method, Warren seems to be a big help on all these topics and I trust his opinion, so thanks to everyone.

Just one question.....Should I get the engine warm first? Or would it even matter?

Shawn

I doubt that it really matters much, those exhaust components are probably used to thermal shock by now. You, on the other hand, are going to be under that engine for a quite a while, and my skin has never quite gotten used to rubbing up against hot metal engine parts, so I would recommend a room-temperature engine to start!

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Warren Hall
1973 911S Targa

Ha ha ha, That is a great point. I was planning on being careful, but room temp it is. Thanks for the humour Warren.

Shawn