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M&K carrera turbo install

this is my turbo install with most of the parts comming from Ben.

The first thing I did was remove the front pan so I could look at the fuel pump and replace a tunnel fuel line.
I then ordered a new stock pump, mine looks original. Last year I had replaced the injectors with new ones and redid the fuel lines in the engine bay.

Then I ordered a BEGI 2027 FMU from www.bellengineering.net $210
also some fittings from BATINC.net to make jumpers to put the FMU between the rail return and hard return line to the fuel tank. $67

Once that was mounted, see pic here, locating FPR on carrera, this look like a good spot? I ran the fuel pump and checked for leaks.
I started the car and checked idle pressure, making sure I could adjust it at the FMU.. I set it at 40PSI, you can turn it down later. At the in line of the FMU
I installed a 1/4" NPT to -6 fitting with a 1/8" tap for an electric 0-100 fuel pressure sender from egauges.com also from them I ordered a EGT and boost gauge $380.
On the cheap these gauges aren't neccessary, but nice to have. But You need to know fuel pressure because the stock carrera FPR isn't up to the task.
I ran these three gagues and mounted them in the front. Bare bones put a gauge on the rail and odserve AFR on dyno or borrow LM1, adjust pressure rate based on AFR readings. Or max
I'm going to move my gauges, they aren't really in a good spot.

I ordered a chip from protomotive, I won't put up a price beacuse I believe it changes every so often. But Todd will reprogram it later on for $110 he told me. Steve Wong would do it for you also. One side note, I guess steve will now sell a turbo chip and remap as ness.

Then I started removing air box, AFM, rubber boot, and throttle body.
There's one vac line on the back of the stock airbox. I removed it completly.
On the front of the rubber boot is the idle control valve. I left that in place with real hose clamps instead of the stock crimp clamps.

On the back of the rubber boot at the top is the pipeline (copper pipe) that has all sorts of stuff on it cruise control, power booster, etc. Downline in the hose supposedly there's a check valve. I'll find out real quick if I'm leaking there.
I put better clamps on it and left it in place.
Below the pipeline is the bigger breather hose to the air valve next to the oil tank. I removed this hose and put a plumber's plug in it directly in the sleeve on the rubber boot. I took the silver sleeve
insert to home depot and found the best one that fit. I cut the other end of this line at the oil tank and put a breather/filter on it from pepboys.





I installed the proto chip in the DME box and set the FQS switch to zero, instructions explained here http://911chips.com/fuelsys.html
If you have a torx bit set, the T10 size fits in there perfect.

I loosened up the crossmount bolts to lower the engine about an inch, and removed the rear tin and muffler. Will be easy if you don't have AC or any rear blower heater stuff.

I replaced the right side chain cover gasket because a gasket set comes with both. Jack your car up a little on the side to stop oil flow. Still a quart or so will come out.


I put together the x-over pipe and muffler and wastegate, installed WB O2 and EGT probe, and mounted it up to the SSI's. (I still hadn't remover the bumper) I clocked the turbo and marked the driver's side chain cover for drain line.
Then I removed the left side and tapped for oil retun line from M&K, With the turbo still in place, there's just enough room to do this. My fitting is half inch NPT to -8.
edit dec 2006, I've since mover the oil drain to the case with dash ten line and a couple hard 90's from BATINC.net

I took the bumper off at this point because I was getting angry about it.
I tightened up the drain line and tightened the hot side clocking bolts.
I ran the wastegate signal line to the compressor side tap on the turbo and put a airfilter on.

I installed the pressure pipe on the turbo and ran the signal line from the blow off valve to the back of the throttle butterfly. Then I drilled a 7/8 hole right behind the passenger side rear shock tower in the engine bay from inside the car. I ran my wideband O2 to LM1 cable through there, with enough room left over to pass througha pick up clamp. There was a stock hole already on the driver's side for the fuel pressure sender and EGT and boost signal tubing.
I installed the throttle body and hooked up the boost gauge signal and FMU signal and stock FPR and damper. I then put the rubber boot back on. And the AFM.
I made up a gasket for the AFM and put the elbow tube on it and connected the pipes. I then connected the oil line from Ben. I also used a restrictor fitting that I got from atpturbo.com
The oil feed line from the front of the engine was installed before I put the throttle body back on.
A friend started the car while I had my fingers crossed. (i ran the fuel pump for a couple seconds before)

it started fine and I checked for leaks, had one at the oil in line to the turbo. We adjusted the FMU per the instructions. With vac line off, the FMU see's atmospheric, or idle pressure. And It reads on the gauge. Once you plug the vac line back in to the FMU the gauge drops to zero which I didn't understand at first but makes sense now, sorta. I think I need to change my location of the sender. But it's working well. And It rises very fast as positive pressure is achieved. Max pressure yesterday was 80 PSI, I'm still working on that. AFR readings were very rich, I mean high nines and low tens. Max EGT temps were around 1000, Ambient was 95 or so and 90% humidity. My EGT probe is about two inches from the hot side of the turbo.
I'm gonna try to do some logs today. I'll post them up when I get all squared away.
here's some pics. The car possitively screams, I can't wait till December so I can drive it in 50 degree weather.
AND YES BEN, the front of the car jumps up noticeably, I didn't realize it till last night in the 75 degree weather
IF anyone thinks I screwed up anywhere let me know.

Last edited by jbrinkley; 12-19-2006 at 02:11 AM..
Old 08-26-2006, 04:17 AM
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great right up!!!!! Glad you like
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Old 08-26-2006, 04:35 AM
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Re: M&K carrera turbo install

Quote:
IF anyone thinks I screwed up anywhere let me know.[/B]

Yeah you screwed up....You didn't let me drive it yesterday!!!!

J/K your car screams
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2005 GT3 Milltek Exhaust/ECU reflashed/OEM Short shift
1988 911 coupe (GP white) Turbocharged
1998 BMW 328i
Old 08-26-2006, 05:34 AM
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soon grasshoppa
Old 08-26-2006, 06:09 AM
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Yeh, great write up!

What did you end up setting the base idle fuel pressure to? 35-36psi? 40psi seems a bit TOO high for idle conditions

Enjoy the boooost
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Merv
'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition

Last edited by WydRyd; 08-26-2006 at 05:52 PM..
Old 08-26-2006, 05:41 PM
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Nice!
I think the ports on the back of the throttle body that you left open because they "don't penetrate the TB" may open at temperature. It's called a "thermo valve" in the PET.
-Chris
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Old 08-26-2006, 10:17 PM
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indeed it opens at temp, and air then travels from that thermo valve down to the next hole on the T body. But unless they're connected like a stock set up no air can get in there.
After some checking yesterday I have positively no vac leaks.
I think I need a oil drain tank and pump though.
Old 08-26-2006, 11:40 PM
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TurboWerx or Westech make high flow electric oil scavenge pumps for this exact application (low mounted turbo's)

No need for an oil drip tank with those pumps.

See http://turbowerx.com/page1/page2/page2.html

OR

http://westech.home.mindspring.com/propages/scvpump.htm
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Merv
'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition

Last edited by WydRyd; 08-27-2006 at 12:27 AM..
Old 08-27-2006, 12:21 AM
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to answer that, we set it at 32 psi but I need to turn down the gain rate and turn up the base pressure. This is after seeing some logs from yesterday. AFR numbes were 12.3 at 2600, going downhill from there to 10.9 at 6000 rpm.
Old 08-27-2006, 12:23 AM
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The BEGi FPR's are awesome FMU's, allowing you to fine tune the rate of gain under positive boost. I think they are better than the static FMU's. Gives you more fine tunability
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Merv
'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
Old 08-27-2006, 12:29 AM
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really? no need for a tank?
Old 08-27-2006, 12:55 AM
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Not for the scavenge capacity of those pumps, I'd think.

Protomotive don't even use a scavenge pump or drip tank. Just a slight downhill angle on the gravity drain tube to the chain housing is enough, even on their Stage3 550+HP setups

Why do you think you need a oil pump anyway? Is your turbo smoking, or blowing oil back into the intake?

Why not just stack a couple more flanges at the collector to mount the turbo slightly higher, for more of a downward slope on your gavity drain?
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'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition

Last edited by WydRyd; 08-27-2006 at 01:11 AM..
Old 08-27-2006, 01:07 AM
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I'm thinking about that to. And you're right I think I just need a more downhill run on the drain. It's downhill now but only slightly so. Oil film could just be another loose fitting. I'm still working on the whole thing.
Old 08-27-2006, 01:41 AM
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It's quite normal to get a little oil film in the intact tract. I wouldn't stress about it too much. I have a Proto on-the-side system with the turbo mounted quite high and I get a light oil film in the intake tract and into the intercooler. Even the stock 930 guys see this, so I wouldn't really stress too much about it.

I'd only start stressing if you start to see smoke at idle and HEAVY oil deposits in the intake tract.

Remember, there IS some scavenge or suction in the chain housing, so I think you'll be OK.
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'89 911 Turbo Cab
Protomotive MAP ECU, Twin Plugged Heads, GT2-EVO CAMs, 3.3L fully finned P&C's, ARP fasteners, C2T head gaskets, Titanium Retainers, Turbo spec valves, springs & guides, 964 splash valves, GT35R BB turbo, GSF Stainless Headers, Magnaflow Exhaust, Full bay Intercooler, TiAL 46mm w/gate, TiAL 50mm BOV, Apexi AVC-R EBC, SPEC Stage3+ Clutch kit, Crane CDI Ignition
Old 08-27-2006, 02:15 AM
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only smoke so far was on closed throttle decel. it's a little less so now after leaning it out a little. I couldn't even see it except for on the videotape.

recently someone asked me about this, it was smoke from the oil on the K&N, it does this if i use too much after I clean it. the car doesn't smoke at all.

Last edited by jbrinkley; 05-18-2008 at 04:52 AM..
Old 08-27-2006, 02:33 AM
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jerry I get some oil in mine as well but I think that has to do with no restrictor and the possibility my engine may have burned some oil before. if it burned any oil before the compresser will condense the oil in the intake tract and look excessive when it probably is not. I really don't think you need a scavage pump as I think the path is pretty clear for you and is used the same way as proto and bae did it. You could stack another flange in there but again not sure if thats going to do it either. don't sweat it get it running right first
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Current project 73 914-6 Gt project rusteration 2.4
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Old 08-27-2006, 04:13 AM
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I just did some freeway runs. I'm not really sweating it much I just want to be sure..... ya know.
Odd that it's possible to pass a state patrol on the other side of the freeway doing 110-120 and nothing happens. Radar wasn't even going off.
It's running sweet, and after looking at my logs with steve's chip from a couple months ago I took my best this morning from the best over the last year and I see a 4.92 second drop in time from 2500 to 6000 rmp in third gear.
also, for anyone that want s to know I think the sweet spot for fuel press is 64 psi at full boost. It starts raising just before zero in the manifold.
it's awesome
Old 08-27-2006, 04:44 AM
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What were your AFR's this morning?
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2005 GT3 Milltek Exhaust/ECU reflashed/OEM Short shift
1988 911 coupe (GP white) Turbocharged
1998 BMW 328i
Old 08-27-2006, 05:08 AM
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a little leaner than yesterday, that regulator is sensitive.
you want to be a camera man tomorrow?
Old 08-27-2006, 06:54 AM
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sounds good, just call. Do you still need to tweak the FPR or are you leaving it for now.
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2005 GT3 Milltek Exhaust/ECU reflashed/OEM Short shift
1988 911 coupe (GP white) Turbocharged
1998 BMW 328i
Old 08-27-2006, 06:56 AM
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