Oil pressure guage pegged at 140psi

[Brent Lineker]

Hi all:My oil pressure guage has been reading erratic for a few days now,needle boucing around and then pegging at 140 for a stretch and then coming back down to normal.It is now pegged at 140 all the time.I took the pressure sensor spade connector off and cleaned it as well as the male end on the sender unit but to no avail.I am not to framiliar with ammeters but this is what I tried next.I put the meter on the resistance setting with the spade connector off the sending unit,Iput the red probe on the pressure sender top post and put the black probe to ground and got no reading at all through different engine RPMs.I then took the green wire that normally goes to the sender and put it to ground and the guage dropped back to zero.I am guessing that this would prove that the guage itself works and the sender is faulty.I have gone through some posts warning DIYers from replacing the sender because of possible harm to the casing causing huge dollar pains.Has anyone done the sender replacement themselves,mine is very accessible with no CIS or AC in the way.My car is a 75 911s with the weber conversion.

[Early_S_Man]

Brent,

Yes, it sounds like you have isolated the problem to the sender itself!

Most of the cautions and horror stories involve removing the sender from the mounting block, so just remove the through bolt and block with sender still attached, then mount the block securely in a vise with plastic jaw protectors.

[Brent Lineker]

Thanks early-s- man for the advice,is the through bolt you talk of come from the right hand side and into the casing?Anybody who has replaced one could you please chime it it would be greatly appreciated.I am not real mechanically inclined but can do some basic stuff.

[Brent Lineker]

[JP911]

Referencing the pic above, the bolt enters from the right and threads into the case. When I did the R/R of the pressure sender I had to disconnect a few of the small oil lines that feed the chain tensioners. It's easy enough to do, but take your time.

[}{arlequin]

sorry to piggyback onto this but in a similar way, mine is pegged at the max as well, w/ the exception that i replaced mine about a year ago so i have a known quantity new sender.

is there a chance that it also went kaput or would this rather point me towards refurbing my gauge(s).

thanks.

[Brent Lineker]

Thanks jp911,what kind ok wrench do you need,I read that a crows foot would work but was a little dangerous to the threads.What did you use.Thanks..Brent

[OldTee]

Originally Posted by }{arlequin

sorry to piggyback onto this but in a similar way, mine is pegged at the max as well, w/ the exception that i replaced mine about a year ago so i have a known quantity new sender.

is there a chance that it also went kaput or would this rather point me towards refurbing my gauge(s).

thanks.

Your 3.0 is developing too much power in that old 73T (or whatever it is). Wiggle the wire and watch and see what happens. Then move to the instrument panel, remove the cluster (with the battery disconnected) then hook it back up and wiggle some more. Shounds more like a broken connection or bad ground than a bad instrument.

Hail dorkiphus
ARF

[FenderGuy]

Bret

I used regular hand tools when I fixed mine. My Druck was pegged at 5, which I though was normal, which I had known that when my engine piston ring failed.

Is it supposed to move this freely?

check out my link, easy fix and good feeling when the druck works again

[Brent Lineker]

Excellent link thanks to all for your help,will order the part and proceed.....Thanks

[bkreigsr]

had the same problem, luckly the fix was fairly simple.
turns out the female spade was loose on the male.
I used a needlenose to tighten the curls on the female and was good to go.
Also taped some more insulation over the pigtail.
I came up with it by accident as I was teching for a DE.
worth a try?
good luck
Bill K

[Brent Lineker]

Thanks for the help guys,I put in the sender yesterday,I needed a 14 and 17mm wrench and a 15/16 for the sender itself,not sure what the metric size would be for that one.I needed to take the oil lines off first and then the block with the sender still attached.Put the block in a vice lined with cloth and spun the the sender off.The oil lines were very stiff to break loose and was a little nervous doing it but they did finally let go.I did put some LPS on the lines first,not sure if it helped or not.Everything working good now with no leaks..

[FenderGuy]

Good deal Brent, did you also get the smirk face when you knew the Druck was working? I swear just by doing this job I felt like I do anything on my car ( expect for a engine rebuild)