Is there a definitive "While your in there" list?
 

I've got four broken head studs and I'm in the process of tearing the engine down to replace all of them so I'm curious if anyone has put together a list of "must do's" in addition to what Wayne suggests in his book.

I had a Pelican look at my timing chain tensioners and mention the chains needed to be replaced since the tensioner was near the end of it's travel.

Motor is supposed to have new pistons and cylinders about 30,000 miles ago according to the receipts I have from the previous owner so if they didn't replace the chains then, what else did they miss?

What else should I be looking closely at?
Valve guides?
Rod bolts?

I've spent some time searching and haven't come across any definitive lists of must do's and/or should do's.

Brian

Every engine has its own list. I have replaced too many external parts that I did not plan on. I can't even go anywhere near the inside of the engine right now ($$$). Good luck!

Dave

Unless the bottom end has a very large amount of miles on it, I wouldn't crack it open unless you're inclined to go for a complete rebuild. If the compression/leak down numbers are OK, I wouldn't worry about valves, but I would check the guides, especially if they weren't replaced when the P/Cs were.

What do you consider a large amount of miles?

As Dean Stockwell said in "Married to the Mob", "RINGS!!!!!"

A definitive list of while you are in there, depends on the definitive balance of your checking account. There is a positive colleration, I am sure.

One would think that everything had been done when the p/c were replaced, but it appears to have been a minimal cost job.

is it burning oil? smoking?
Known weak points for '87 3.2[list=1][*]rod bolts[*]valve guides[*]intermediate shaft bearings[*]clutch[/list=1]

Don't forget the infamous 3-way fuel line that connects the fuel rails and FPR...prone to split in high mileage applications and expensive from Porsche.;)

Here is a parts list that may be useful...just ignore some of the parts used as well as machine work as they wouldn't be necessary for what you are trying to accomplish...:)

http://www.europeancarweb.com/projectcars/proj911parts.pdf

If they didn't split the case, chances are they didn't replace the chains, and if they did it would have been with the interlink type...some like them, some don't...

I would split the case (since it sounds like it didn't happen the first time)...there will be some extra parts cost, additional cleaning involved and perhaps machine work necessary but the actual labor to split & reassemble the short-block is only about 10 hours...well worth the time and money spent imo...:)

Ralph

I agree w/ Ralph, additionally if yoy replace chains then generally the sprockets need replacement as well.

Better safe than sorry, go through the whole engine, from A to Z

if you can convince a good mechanic to consult with you - then you can pull the items and let him decide if they are so worn they need replacement

or you can take pics and post them of worn items to get opinions on whether they are too worn or not

or - the easier way & maybe more spendy way - is to just replace everything you are in doubt about

- those are 3 ways to get around the lack of experience an amateur has in evaluating wear

It doesn't ever smoke, and hasn't used the quart of oil I added 2 months and 1500 miles ago. It leaks more oil than it uses so stopping the leaks is a top priority.:)

Car has 150,000 miles on it. Clutch was new less than 20,000 miles ago.

Once I get the cam nut tool from Pelican I can tear into it a bit more and will post pictures of the valves, cylinders and pistons.

The saleman from Pelican said I can replace the rod bolts without opening the bottem end so I may give it a shot, I'm guessing they may be original. Has anyone done that before?

Also the starter left me hanging one time, I'm guessing from heat soak since it was a long trip on a hot day and it hasn't doen it since so I'm going to replace it while its handy.



Brian

With 150,000 miles on the bottom end and the top end in an apparent shambles and needing to come apart again, I really have a hard time understanding your reluctance on splitting the case...but hey it's your motor...:)

To answer your question, yes you can replace the rod bolts without splitting the case...


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157338543.jpg


You have a golden opportunity to do it right for many years/miles of trouble-free driving rather than the band-aid that looks like was done 30,000 miles ago. I wish you good luck!

Ralph