Do I need a special tool

[zbph10]

Do I need and/or where can I buy the special tool mentioned in Waynes book and the Bently manual to remove these nuts.

Cars an 87 3.2



I can't seem to find the tool on the website.

Thanks
Brian

[ianc]

From Pelican. Cam bar; about $100. Call if you can't find it on the site.

ianc

Edit: PEL-TOL- P237 - $72

[2.7RACER]

Brian,
Timing chain on the left side is pretty close to the limit for wear. Can't see enough of the right side. I'm confident with a picture showing the position of the tensioner arm, would indicate time for replacement.

[carnutzzz]

Originally posted by 2.7RACER
Brian,
Timing chain on the left side is pretty close to the limit for wear. Can't see enough of the right side. I'm confident with a picture showing the position of the tensioner arm, would indicate time for replacement.

How can you tell?

[Superman]

I threw a wire around the chain near the sprocket to ensure it does not move or skip a tooth, then lock the flywheel and turn the nut. Easier if you use a pneumatic wrench.

[JohnJL]

If you hold the crank (I used a long screwdriver as a lever between two bolts on the crank pulley) you don't need the tool. Just hold the crank still while you loosen the cam bolt. Works for installing too.

[youngkang]

Originally posted by carnutzzz
How can you tell?

Look at the plunger in the chain tensioner.

[2.7RACER]

Gentlemen,
The following pictures show what a new timing chain looks like.


Notice the position of the tensioner shaft and how close things are to the chain housing when stretched.
The stretched chain really should have been changed sooner.
With these two images to compare to, it is rather simple to determine relative chain stretch.

[john walker's workshop]

the only tool you need is the cam holder when you tighten the bolt. a short tube with 3 pins to enter the sprocket holes and a bar handle. a deep 19mm socket goes through it to tighten the bolt. yes, the chain worn, so that pretty much tells you that both of them are. easier to see it on the left side.

[JohnJL]

John,
Is my method the "Sanford and Sons" approach? ;-)

[2.7RACER]

John,
Although your method seems to work, it does so by putting a significant load against the intermediate shaft gears, bearings, sprockets and the new timing chain. The entire camshaft drive. More load than designed for.
By holding the cam sprocket at the sprocket, excessive loads through the cam drive system are avoided.
I'm sure you agree, holding the sprocket while tightening the retaining bolt avoids potential future problems.

[john walker's workshop]

didn't i just describe the cam holder tool?

[MattAlpha]

Can someone post a picture of this tool.

It would be nice to see, since I'm sure I'll be replacing my chains in the next two years, or when my first engine drop is required.

Thanks,
Matt

[Gunter]

Matt:
ianc told you what the tool is.
Cam Bar, 911 (1980-89) [Photo]
PEL-TOL-P237 $72.00
You can do some search yourself, it's easy!
If anyone plans to only change the chain without changing the sprockets on the intermediate shaft, go here:

New chains without new sprockets? Read this!

Brian:
Aside from the cam holder, you would also need the Z-block and dial indicator for timing the cams. It's more involved than you think.
Why do you want to open the center bolt on the cams?

[zbph10]

I've got four broken head studs

[Gunter]

I just finished building a SS 3.2 and recommend that you buy the right tools. You can always sell them after.
A quality 3/8-drive torque wrench is a must! So is Wayne's book on engine rebuild.
Z-block, dial indicator, cam bar, ring compressor,
To replace the studs, the P/C's have to come off, of course.
Hopefully, you'll find Nikasil to re-ring. Depending on the mileage, the top land may still be in spec.
If you find Alusil, you have to make a decision: Take a chance and re-ring or get new P/C's.

[MattAlpha]

Gunter thanks for answering my question that Ianc had already answered. I was just hoping that someone had a picture of their own while using it. Just helps me see the best way to use it (orientation wise on the cam spocket).
-Matt

[randywebb]

Originally posted by john walker's workshop
didn't i just describe the cam holder tool?

2 Johns on this thread - he must have meant the other one

[ianc]

I was just hoping that someone had a picture of their own while using it.

You can see it on the right: