Removing Anodizing from Trim while still on car?
 

Has anyone stripped the anodizing off of their window trim with this stuff? and has anyone done it with the trim still on the car?

Not lazy here just not skilled. Thanks in advance!

http://www.jestcoproducts.com/buffing_compounds2.html

They also sell a bunch of Wenol products for polishing alumium.

LOTS of masking tape, LOTS of careful trim with the tape, LOTS of careful sanding with 2000 grit using water to lubricate, then clean off all the tape, mask again, then polish using small buffing wheels and compounds= MANY MANY hours of work.
The right way is to disassemble everything, then at least you have a much easier time of it. The trim has to be completely taken apart, steel parts removed from the aluminum, if you intend to get it clear anodized when done.
Once finished wax it once a month to keep it protected. otherwise if you don't anodize be prepared to use metal polish every couple of months between waxing.

a suggestion would be to find someone on this board that has the door and side window trim in good shape- then swap it out- much cheaper and faster. Buy the front and back window trims new- they get mangled from handling and don't cost that much from the dealer

Thanks Dave!
 

I am planning ahead. Winter project.

They don't tell you what the stuff is, but Easy-Off Oven Cleaner is what most of us use. As Dave says, anything that strong CANNOT be allowed to get on the paint. I'd pull the windows myself and do this on a stand even if you don't remove the trim from the rubber. The rubber and the glass are not affected by the caustic solution. But, you don't want to leave any in the rubber grooves either. This way, you could hose them off real well before polishing. I removed black paint from a rear window trim and polished it on the car. I ended up taking the glass out (for another reason) and then polished the trim separate from the glass/ rubber. Much easier. If you take the glass out first and then remove the rubber carefully, the only problem you face is threading it back into the rubber. If you're careful with it, it won't deform or bend out of shape and will reinstall easily. Or, you could flip a hundred on a glass installer to do both if you are there to provide some assistance. That is unless the subject car is a Targa. If that's the case, nevermind. ;)

Removing the trim out of a door is a lot of work. I'm not disagreeing with Dave here, just thinking about something different. How about pulling the hinge pins and laying the doors on a stand, too. That way, you won't be fighting gravity and your nice paint job below.

Thanks Milt.
 

What are the chances I will screw up (LOL with me it's usually 99%) the headliner removing all the window glass and trim?

Trim stripping......
 

If you just want to get the black off the window trim, try a little lacquer thinner on a rag. The black trim around the rear window on my SC had gotten badly faded and partially rubbed off. I tried to re-blacken it with a marking pen but that soon washed off. Deciding that I had nothing to lose, I tried various solvents on a shop rag until I found that the lacquer thinner worked best. It took a couple of hours of work but I was able to remove about 98% of the black finish. Since my car is the black metallic body color, a little bright trim looks pretty good. As soon as my hands recover from being exposed to the lacquer thinner (next time I'll wear latex gloves) I intend to do the windshield trim to match.

Latex gloves will last less than 30 seconds. You need chemical gloves. But, good question about the black. I never thought of black anodize and I wonder if the others were thinking clear anodizing.

My car has black anodizing...
 

Its faded to silver in some parts.

I am looking to get a matte silver finish to all the trim.

Andrew

Bob Tilton did this to his wheels and trim, IIRC. Or, he was planning on it. So was I, but then I sold the car. Scotchbite pads will do this nicely AFTER you get them sanded and somewhat polished. You could also soda blast them for a real fine, yet dull finish. Again, what you start with will determine what you get in the end. So, if you glass bead them, they won't get like they would if you first polished them (not to a high luster, just smooth).

I could be wrong. I've done a bit of polishing, but I'm not the expert on this. Inventiveness always helps. By that token, see if you can pick up an extra piece of trim to experiment.

Milt, Great idea to test it.
 

I do not want to clear coat it, I am not opposed to treating stripped areas with wax once a month to keep it sealed. I will post pictures when I start and document my progress. I am going to try the "on the car" route first.

Why to remove the "old" stuff?

I had the same deal on my 28 year old black trim - purplelish looking - and sanded down to create some bonding, then applied Wurtz semi-gloss black, and guess what? It looks great. It has been two years and still looks great. No problem at all.

ok- if it is a off silver finish you are looking for, then painting is a good option. Check out this color that was achieved using Dupli-Color 424155A on a RS clone. This one is kind of a nickel finish in color, but they have others available to your taste
After carefully masking everything, sanding the trim and door handles, prime, this color, then clear coat- many layers for chip and fingernail protection. It came out pretty decent w/o having to take the parts off the car. Took about 10 hours to do the whole car
remember to not take too long to do this- try getting it done in one weekend as the masking tape will adhere to the trim with the clear coats- always wait till its completely dry, then cut the tape right up against the painted surfaces before removing. go back and remove the little tape debris afterwards
otherwise you will remove paint in sections right off the trim!

BTW: once you pick a color, let me know and i can get you enough paint to match for those minilites



http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157385098.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157385117.jpg

Thanks Dave.
 

Good advice!

You can just match the paint for the minilite to the ones I sent back to you.

Thanks!

Andrew

will do
speak to you soon
db

Ok got a lead on 1968 door frames...
 

Would these be chrome or silver anodized? Would they look really out of place on a SC? The vent windows open.

Thanks.

If this works I will just buy matching opening rear windows to complete the look.

Anyone out here have a pic of a shorthood with opening vent windows? Hell I guess its just a matter of time before I backdate the whole car.

Thanks

Andrew

68 should be aluminum with clear anodizing- first year as such- the prior models had brass that was chromed- much heavier!

check out cegerer's post on the belgian rally? something familiar looking there? best pics of that style i have seen yet

So Dave do you think opening Qtr windows
 

would look out of place on a SC?

Andrew