What the heck is this tool called?
 

I am trying to disassemble the driver’s seat of my 77 911 so I can reupholster the bottom cushion. There is this slotted bolt/screw thing on the right side of the seat that holds the thing together. I tried using a flat head screwdriver to turn it, no go. The torque just started to mar the inside of the slot. So I figure there must be a ratchet/impact wrench socket that is round and has a bar or something inside to spread the load over the entire slot.

Does anyone know what this is called, I felt like an Idiot yesterday trying to explain to the guys at Shucks and Home Depot what I needed, I would rather feel like an idiot here.

Thanks,
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1157301251.jpg

You need a bigger screw driver.

A really big screwdriver--i.e. wide tip--might do the job, and if it doesn't do it alone, put a Vice-Grip on the blade and use it as a handle to help turn the driver while you push it hard into the slot.

Stephan

You need to use an impact driver:

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.c...photo/5542.jpg

I believe the term you're looking for is Drag Link Socket...click here to see a pic of the Craftsman version:

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?cat=Mechanics+Tools&pid=00934299000&ver tical=TOOL&subcat=Sockets&BV_UseBVCookie=Yes

Your avatar seems to suggest you are a Swede with a turbo. Correct ?

Drag Link Socket

- exactly -- & you may need to file it down too

Excellent! I have a couple of these and wouldn't have known the name of them for the life of me should I need more. Sure is an obsure, meaningless name to me, though.

I'm betting the impact driver will do the job very well.

Means it's a socket tool intended for the removal of the fastener that holds on drag links. Imagine if they'd called it a seat pivot socket....

Stephan

I've never had any luck using impact drivers, and I hate the thought of whaling away at the part, essentially, to make the driver work.

Stephan

I think that a big screw driver with a vice grip or crescent wrench on the shank of the screw driver is the best method of removing the screw. You need to bear down on the screw driver to prevent it from riding out of the slot.

Drag link socket + impact driver. Will need a 1/2-to-3/8 adapter to fit the two.

The hammer blow keeps the tool in the slot while providing the sudden force required to loosen it.

Sherwood

Yeah, and they also unnecessarily whack the scheiss out of the assembly you're working on. Very crude tool. I have one, but I only use it for blacksmithery.

Stephan

I'm not saying that tool will remove it. I'm suggesting that's the tool I would recommend. If it doesn't work, one goes to plan B (several choices here). Staying the course after repeated failure does not a plan make. (catch any political overtones there?) :-)

As with any process that involves swinging a hammer, one must know the limitations of the part to bludgeon and the tool of choice. Hammers come in different sizes and shapes. Not knowing the status of the material and structure underneath the pivot screw nor turboswede's arm strength, endurance or good judgement, I'll add a caveat and let the user decide how hard to bash it and for how long, but those are the tools I'd try first. Swinging a hammer with nuance - as in bodywork.

Sherwood

Drag link socket looks like the ticket, I think I would have more controll over the torque than with an impact hammer (or what ever). The drag link socket and then I will get an impact wrench if that won't work.

Well yes, I actually have a couple of turbos; an 84 Volvo 244GLT with factory intercooler (I know, that’s a different board) and a 77’ Turbo Carrera. I am also a Swede (kind of), I was born in Göteborg and moved to the States when I was a kid. I still have family in Lerum and Västerås and try and see them every year or so. My little sister is going to start classes this year at the University in Lund so I will probably be checking up on her.

My Swedish is bad, but better than most Americans:).

I knew someone couldn't stay away forever.

ianc

An Impact driver will work much better than an impact wrench. The wrench will be very likely to totally screw the top of the screw up and you would need an impact grade drag link socket which may be hard to find. The impact driver is just to break the screw loose, then a regular screwdriver would do. It's a good tool for certain situations, the big screw that holds the rear seatbacks in on the center tunnel, and in my old car's case, the screws that held the rear valance to the rear bumper.

Well, as long as we're all adding our 2 cents....I'd suggest a drag link socket and a breaker bar...pre soak with PB Blaster. Go with more severe (impact) action only if needed. (edit) I checked with the Albany, OR SEARS while doing other shopping earlier today. They did NOT have the drag link socket set in stock. I was told "maybe" one of the larger stores (Portland) might carry it. But, I could catalog order them myself or they could order a set in.