Heck why not, more knowledge is better for all of us.

Just curious how you will connect the +12v connections, what brand did you buy? Was it the guys from NY? I almost bought it but wanted a brand others here tried and tested for measure.

without factory electric locks as a stock item in 1977 I installed Porsche electric door solenoids and the arm connecting to the door lock. I then went aftermarket for the relay pack and hooked it up to my Viper alarm beeper. I also installed up-graded window regulators, etc.

So which +12v fuses did you use?

i use an 8 circuit breaker panel mounted next to battery.

others will tap into battery directly or tap into trunk fuse panel.





http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1196156148.jpg

Hmm. very interesting. Do you have pic of your set up yet?

Check what your installation instructions state to do, I used a test light to identify what fuse matched with; NO POWER AT ACCESSORY OR OFF POSITION that's what my system required for switched wire, and the constant 12v i used the clock fuse.
Hope that helps,
Bob

Oh Hey Rcaradimos,SmileWavy

Glad you replied, So just to verify, when you said #11 relay, you mean #8 hazard light indicator relay in panel section 1, right?

I'll use the car's schematic to find where the 12v supply feeds in to the fuse panel, then add another fuse for this kit.

The kit is from this guy in Seattle that has a bunch of power door lock kits on ebay. The reason I chose his is because he lists the actuators as "heavy duty". In my research on ebay I found actuators ranging in force from ~2.5kg - ~5.0kg. He didn't list the exact force these actuators apply, but I'm keeping my fingers crossed they'll be enough. I'll start a thread once I get the kit and have some time to do the install. Wish me luck!

Jon

PIC SHOWS / constant and switched FUSE locations, looks like i counted ten fuses over and connected to the jumper screw off fuse 10 --- check that spot for NO POWER AT ACCESSORY AND OFF POSITION----- BUT POWER AT ON, START AND RUN

Success!

Thank you Magic930 & Rcaradimos for your detailed installation.

Here is my experience and verification of some issues:

The Black Widow BW854, does come with some poor installation instructions for our P-Cars but tech support is great.

*Basic Features - 8 wires in total:
3 to Ground Connection= Black, Violet & Violet/Black
2 to Power Source = Red & Yellow
2 to Power Lock Control = Blue & Green
1 to Parking Lights = White via Diodes

Valet Button is needed for Programing and the LED is helpfull to see if programing was accepted by the module.

I placed my LED where the interior cab temperature sensor would have been.

*Remote Transmitter Layout - is definitely not marked properly, the Unlock is Button 2 and not the Trunk Button (actually #3) as stated in the manual. This is very important for proper programming of the module.

*Valet Mode - To turn off or "override" valet mode you must hold the switch for over 5 (5-10 per tech support at BW) seconds and not 3 seconds as stated in the manual. This is the only way to turn off the LED Light when in Valet Mode.

*Diodes - Radio Shack was out of stock and did not know when they will get some so I went to my local ham radio/electronics store and purchased some 3 amp diodes. The tech stated it is more than I will ever need. He said 1 amp would do just fine but to be safe he sold me 2 3amp diodes. I used the blue crimp and folded to double the thickness of the white (parking light control) wire to fit properly. Remember the silver marked end toward the fuse terminals (Panel 2 Fuse 5 & 6).

I used Rcaradimos method of connecting the module's red (constant +12v) wire to the Clock Fuse terminal ('85's Panel 1 Fuse 1) and the yellow (switched, ignition monitor) wire to the Windshield Washer terminal (Panel 1 Fuse 7 jumper, the terminal right between Fuse 7 & 8 as described by Rcaradimos).

I also programmed the module not to auto lock when ignition is turned on.

The range is pretty poor, 10 to 20 feet but it's OK as long as I do not have to put my key in the handle and stop scratching the paint is all I wanted anyways.

Lights and LED works perfectly.

Hope this helps someone. I had difficult time because the buttons were not marked properly but once figured out and spoke to tech line. It was a snap.

I am very happy with the results.

Thanks again fellas,

Antena Boost Cheap
 

Update:

I got fed up with the low range of the Black Widows antenna so I did an experiment:

My baby has two antennas one on the windshield and the power antenna that my radio is hooked up to.

I was cleaning up the wires underneath the dash and saw the windshield antena just hanging there. I pulled it through the fire wall and spliced it to the Black Widow's antena.

Not expecting much but SUCCESS!

I now have a 30-40 yard radius range. Very Happy and no need to buy an external booster. So if you guys have both antenna's connect it and it will increase your range.

SmileWavy

I put a Y connector in fender antenna wire to plug in the remote alarm pager transmitter. Big difference if antenna is up most of the way.


I have to disconnect the remote dook lock wire to the parking lights or put a fuse in line.

At first I was going to do that until I found that the PO did not remove the WS antenna.

Whoa:eek: fuse? You used the diodes right? My electronic store stated 1 amp is good enough but 3 amps is a guarantee.

over,

bell said crooks break the lens and short the bulb socket so the alarm brain crashes. So he said a fuse prevents that from happening.

Oh my, that's a nifty trick, those damn thieves.

So do you put the fuse on the LED line or the parking light circuit and if so what size (amp)?

TIA

I haven't done it yet. I guess a 3 amp fuse should allow enough current to work the parking lights without blowing?

Oh I see,

When you do do it, could post a pic for us?

TIA

I just finished the hook up today. I did the simple, simple hook up. No diodes, no horn, no flashing lights, nothing. Just lock and unlock. I also got it programmed so it doesn't lock when the ignition is turned on. The range for me as is is just fine for now. Thanks a lot for the thread Magic930 and everyone's comments. Couldn't have done it with out ya!

PS - I got the BW 854 from Amazon for ~42 shipped.

I recently installed mine, too. The harness has little tabs on the back – push the tab in and the wire slips right out. I removed all wires not necessary for simple lock and unlock. This makes a very clean install possible.

The system works great – I get about 40 foot range.

Thanks for all the help – couldn’t have done this without it

Paul


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223678843.jpg


http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1223678862.jpg

EDIT: Made a few changes.

Bringing this one back from the dead.

After buying the BW854 unit 3 years ago, I decided to install it this weekend, but I can't get it to work. I followed the posts above, but I must have done something wrong. I was looking for a simple install with no horn, dome lights, valet switch, remote LED or aux functions

Can you guys check my wiring below?

I replaced the remote batteries with new ones. The red LED light on the does work when a button is pressed.

When I start the car, the door locks "lock". When I turn it off, the door locks "unlock".

3 to Ground Connection= Black, Violet & Violet with black tracer
2 to Power Source = Red to constant power & Yellow to switched power (per magic930's picture)
2 to Power Lock Control = Blue with black tracer to brown with green tracer & Green w/ black tracer to brown with blue tracer.
1 to Parking Lights = White via Diodes

Any ideas?

I would start with the battery on the remote. Maybe clean the remote terminals with a nail file. The wiring looks fine.

What do you think of the blue/white vs blue/black?

Update:

I replaced the remote batteries with new ones. No change there.

I swapped the blue wire with a white tracer for the blue wire with a black tracer and connected it to the brown wire with green tracer. The green wire with the black tracer is now connected to the brown wire with the blue tracer.

When I start the car, the door locks "lock". When I turn it off, the door locks "unlock".

I just can't get the remotes to work....

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1268687459.jpg

It's been a while, but I remember having to program the remotes before they worked. If I remember correctly, there was a separate sheet in the about this.

ADDING / DELETING REMOTE
TRANSMITTERS
Adding new transmitters to the system will
automatically delete all other remotes that
were previously operating the system.
NOTE: You must code all desired remotes
at this time.The unit can learn a maximum of
three transmitters.

To enter Code Learning Mode:
1. Turn ignition key on, off, on, off, on and
leave on within 5 seconds.The horn will
chirp (if installed) and the LED / parking
lights will flash once.

2. Press and hold valet switch for 3
seconds.The horn will chirp and the LED
/ parking lights will flash 3 times.

3. Release the program switch.

4. Program all desired remotes by pressing
button 1 on each of the transmitters.
The parking lights will flash after the
system has learned each remote control.

5. Turn ignition key off. Remotes are now
programmed to the system

I wish I could help, call the mfg and have your facts down on what wire is connected to what and whats happening.
It could be a function of programing the controller box. On mine if I remember correctly, I had to count flashes of the LED to understand what was being programed in the box; by switching off and on of valet switch.
I set mine up to flash parking lights when being locked or unlocked and auto lock/unlock when I start/shut-off engine. No horn beeps it takes away form hearing the locks actuate.

Thanks guys. I thought the remotes were set as is. I'll look into it more.

When I ground the blue and green wires, the doors lock and unlock (and I can see/hear them). It's like there is no signal being sent/received or the control box isn't sending the signal to the locks.

Seems like we have memory issues here on the Cape! :)

Yeah, this was one of those things that took a lot of head scratching in the beginning but I haven't touched since. Hopefully, this weather will clear up soon and I'll be able to remember how to drive the car.

I fired up mine Sat. after a 3+month sleep. 2 seconds' on the key and vroom. Shot around for an hour before the heavy rain. My new toy is one of those LM1 a/f meters so I'll be checking my engine tune this Sat.

Thanks PSJoyce and rcaradimos! I programmed the remotes and it works like a charm!

Guys thanks for all the above information, I just installed the BW 855 on my 930 and does work perfect!!!

Sorry to revive an old thread, but I would like to get keyless entry with basic lock/unlock with remote. I don't need any other features. I have an 89 3.2 with the factory security system. Anyone know if the unit below would work? How would I wire it for basic lock/unlock?

https://www.amazon.com/Docooler-Central-Locking-Keyless-Controllers/dp/B006QH9C5A/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1477853143&sr=8-3&keywords=keyless+entry+door+lock+car

That should work. Check the wiring colors/functions against the diagram above. More info here:

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/933167-can-central-lock-actuators-used-keyless-entry-central-lock-disabled.html

Yeap

No problem

The wires for the door is located on the driverside circular connector where the hinge sits.

You will take the power from the fuse panel but most important is your selection of a ground.

Below is a link to the wiring diagram of the keyless module I want to buy. I understand that Porsche uses the negative trigger? I think I understand where I connect the close signal and open signal to the Porsche wiring. Which of the remaining wires would be ground? For power would I connect the red wire to constant power on the fuse box? Any help with which wire goes where would be appreciated!

http://i.imgur.com/FFnq4df.jpg

Yellow and yellow/black go to ground, red is constant power and black goes to the battery negative from your diagram. The extra details in the figures below the main diagram on top are for the top 6 wires in the main diagram. Use a fuse the protect the wiring/box.