Removal of broken head studs without dropping the motor?
 

I have several broken head studs. All of them are broken just below the hex bolts.

Is there anyway to remove and replace these broken head studs without dropping the motor?

I know that putting a band aid on the problem is not the correct way to proceed but I am looking for a less expensive fix until I can recoup my purchase price.

I have several broken lower head studs. All of them are broken just below the hex bolts.

Is there anyway to remove and replace these broken head studs without dropping the motor?

I know that putting a band aid on the problem is not the correct way to proceed but I am looking for a less expensive fix until I can recoup my purchase price.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Lastly, I have started comparing quotes for the repair job. Can anyone recommend Motor Meister for the rebuild?

Thanks,
Arron

Please do a search - both questions (in-situ stud replacement and MotorMeister advice) have been addressed at length. Cliffs Notes:
1. Easier to pull motor and do it right.
2. Run, Arron, Run.

Do a search on MM! It's not good!!!!!

I wouldn't worry so much about dropping the engine. Its not that difficult. The biggest thing is to get the back of the car high enough for the engine/trans roll out after the drop. I used ramps in front and jackstands with wood blocks in the rear. You should use a trans jack and a good floor jack. A 2 post lift would be sweet on project like these:)

jt
84 targa

Didn't see the part about motor meister; might as well be called motor scheisster. I have heard some pretty negative things, some of which you can find in the archives.

jt

Dropping the engine is easy, though it'd be better to have some help from knowledgeable friends when you do it the first time. MM has some history that's been discussed here at length and you can explore that and make up your own mind. :)

Drop the motor and do it the right way. It will be cheaper in the long run.

As for Motor Meister all I can say is that if I was in the market for a 911 and had narrowed it down to two cars, one with a Motor Meister rebuild and one without, the one without would be the car I would buy.

Doing it right.
 

I would love to do it right when it comes to the rebuild.

So let’s look at the obstacles I face. I’m sure these are the same obstacles everyone faces time and money. I would love to do it myself if I could find the time and the space. So since I do not have copious amounts of spare time to complete a rebuild I will need to find a shop or a motivated not to mention well equipped individual to do the work.

I’ve received lots of suggestions for shops who could do the job. Does anyone have any suggestions on a small guy who could take on the project? Someone who is content not to break the bank.

I’m a toy designer not a rock star, so I can’t afford to pay for someone to send their child to college on my dime.

I do have a 914 I could trade for labor.

Arron, I know I could do this for you, and my charge is reasonable ($30/hr.). I also stand by my work; the last thing I want is a Motor Meister reputation floating around the Porsche community. I am "the small guy" you describe; I also go to college in my spare time. ;)

In reality, fixing head studs by itself is not an extremely expensive ordeal (perhaps $400-500). Yes, it's a pain in the butt, it costs some money and some time. But, the real expensive part about 911 engines is usually, once you get into it, you find other stuff that you need/want to do, be it power upgrades, extra machine work, whatever...which is a likely possibility...see the list in my signature below...a race engine balloons into a $20,000 piece of rocket science.

It could be not too bad, but to reiterate, it could be really bad. Maybe you have a head that's been too beat up to save, or, for that matter, a cylinder or two. Maybe your motor has a rod that doesn't move too freely (spun bearing). You can't know until you open it up.

I am currently in Berkeley, but as a side job, I can get your motor dropped, torn down and the appropriate machine work started when I'm home in Socal. I do not wring people out trying to get more work, I'm busy enough already (school, the project list in my signature, other stuff to do, etc...) My home town is in La Canada, right near Pasadena where the 2-North fwy. dead ends. I have an engine stand, all the proper tools and then some, an air compressor, garage space, and lots of Porsche literature. Plus, I enjoy working on 911 engines and take pride in doing quality work.

I also have some cheap replacement head studs (used steel studs) that will end that worry once and for all. Broken off up at the top of the stud is pretty easy to deal with (compared with broken off at the case....:mad: )

How many miles are on the engine? A Carrera 3.2 or 911SC? I would recommend you start with a compression and leak down test and get an idea of the general health of the motor. If you have the time and/or inclination, I'd like to recommend TRE Motorsports for that; I worked there over this past summer and they know their stuff. That would expedite the process as far as narrowing down what, exactly, you need to do.

Unfortunately, there is no band-aid for head studs; unless, of course, that band-aid is to replace the broken studs (A sorry attempt at humor). The other hard truth is, once something goes awry, you'll be ringing up more of a tab as you continue to drive with the problem. I would expect, if the car is run, that more head studs will continue to break :(.

Sorry to hear of this saga yet again, it's a common tale. I'm available every other weekend if you need me.

Best,
Scott Kinder
(818) 422- three two eight five