1985coupe.
That little wheel inside the rear hub is e-brake adjustment. It shouldn't affectyour brakes squealing at all.
No special tool required to adjust e-brake. Just "feel" the notches in the wheel with a screwdriver and rake forward or backwards to adjust the e-brake shoes.

Phil

1985-er,
You used anti-sieze paste on the back of the pads why? Do they tend to sieze to the pistons? There is very little explained in detail about this little detail.
Thanks-

Thanks for the info sus911. I actually wanted to get the rear rotors out for inspection of both disk and drums, and my understanding (back then) was that I had first to unwind that little wheel or something of that sort; since I couldn't make that wheel turn I decided to leave it alone and get back to it some other time. I guess I'll have to go back to my shop manual, but if you could comment on that this would be great. Thanks and best of,
P.S. where do people get replacement SS cylinders?
- Olivier

der Mond, my understanding is that putting a bit of anti-seize paste on the back of the brake pads helps indeed to prevent seizing of the pistons on the pads that would make them really hard to remove. I did not just decide to do that and must have read it in some reputable publication, or maybe even here in that forum. Maybe more experienced people could chime in here. Hope this clarifies things a bit. Best,

- Olivier

Olivier.
The only reason you'd want to back off that little wheel is if you couldn't remove the hub due to the e-brake binding, even with the handbrake off.
If that's not the case, leave it alone. You may however want to adjust the e-brake while you're in there. You'll see what i mean when you get the hub off.
You can remove the rear rotors separately from the hub. Unscrew the 2 Philips head screws. They may be really tight or even seized so spray some anti-seize or something and get ready with your impact driver if necessary.
Again, I'm no expert or mechanic but I have worked on cars for many years and done quite a few brake jobs. I've never seen a pad seized on to a piston including having driven in quite a few track days and having also worn pads down to the metal on throw-away rotors.
I think the host may have S/S brake pistons if that's what you mean. The cylinders are part of the cast caliper part.
cheers,
Phil

Phil,
Thanks for the details on removing the rear rotors... Now I do remember those 2 philips head screws that I am supposed to attack... And yes I meant "pistons" and not cylinders :D Our host doesn't apparently carry those SS pistons, only for earlier models I believe with the original Al pistons and calipers.
I have seen seized brake pads on pistons... OK that was 20 years ago but still... How does 4 hours of banging/chiseling/murdering itch sound like on the side of a spanish street in 100+ F temps trying to get the brake pad ('s backing) off the piston? This was with a Citroen Visa (flat twin ;)). Since the boots on my 911 were worn through and I did find some rust on the face/lip of the pistons, I believe this anti-seizing paste might prevent any potential future seizing in case of a combination of (1) torn boot + (2) heat from braking. I consider this as a preventive measure (and cheap insurance), but if someone can bring an argument _against_ using anti-seize compound there I'd like to hear about it. Thanks again,

- Olivier