Suspension work begins (or 4 days of folly)!

[AtomicDog]

All,

The parts are on the way.

Front polybronze bushings, ball joints, front sway bar bushings, etc. These will join the Bilstein HD front strut inserts and Sport rear shocks, turbo tie rods, and a myriad of support hardware that have been holding down a corner of my garage - IN MY CAR!!

After noticing a new squeak from the right front, I decided to follow in the footsteps of 450knotoffice and others who have taken the suspension upgrade leap of faith. The alignment is scheduled. Corner balance will be by 'tripod' method, for now. The real deal will happen when monoballs and t-bars are installed in the spring...

I hope everything goes smoothly but am reminded of someone telling me, "If hope is your plan, you need a new plan."

Starting Friday night, I will work until Tuesday morning - when I must drive an hour to the shop for an alignment. 450knotoffice took four weeks. I have three and a half days. What the hell am I thinking???

Anyone near NJ planning on being around (near a phone) over Labor Day? Didn't think so.

Stand by. Live, without a net. I'll take pictures. Wish me luck.

Chris

[450knotOffice]

Good luck Chris and have fun. Expect the unexpected but don't be daunted. My job ended up taking twice as long as I thought it would but I also only worked on it about three days a week and it was my first time. Also, a few unexpected snags along the way took a couple of days to remedy before work could continue.

Any questions at all, feel free to ask.

Include pics too.

[rusnak]

Chris,

I sort of think that if you're planning to do both the front and back, all of those non-factory parts, you'll be doing a lot of fabrication. The front alone can take 3-4 days. You'll need an angle finder to complete the rear. If you use a long contractor's level, along with the angle finder, you can get really really close on the alignment. Close enough to put off the alignment a day or so, just to be dead certain that everything is working before you take it in for alignment. Who wants to blow a $150 alignment by taking everything back apart? Not me.

If you find the car is fighting you, slow way down and don't beat your car or yourself. Go have a beer, it's what I do.

[Chilling in VT]

I just finished just about the same job. New torsion bars, shocks, rear spring plates and elephant bushings front and rear. I also put in the front low friction mounts as well. I did the front right side on Thursday night after work and the front left on Friday after work. The first side was about 3 hours and the second about 2 hours. Nothing really complicated, just keep it slow and methodical. The rear I tackled on Saturday morning. The right rear took just under 4 hours and the left I got down to 3 hours. I had to take out and readjust the rears a couple of times to get the height right. It got to the point I could raise the car back on my lift, take the torsion bar out and reinstall and lower the car in about 30-45 minutes per side. I am by no means a master mechanic but once you see how it works and goes together you will understand. Practice really does make perfect.
So, I think you will be fine with your time schedule. I called AAA and had my car flatbedded for free to the alingment and corner balance shop.

Good luck

[JohnJL]

Agree with the above, especially taking a break when you're tired/frustrated.

One suggestion: take out one of each of the bolts from every section you'll touch...torsion bar covers, a-arm mounts, spring plate bolts, etc and bring them with you to a bolt store and get all new grade 8 or 12 hardware all around. Makes it less worrisome removing old bolts and ensures its 'done right.'

Also, I dropped my car off for alignment and balancing and safety check after doing the same parts replacements and the mechanic (well-known and experienced) laughed at me for using the de-cambered ball joints. He said he has a jig for bending the arms themselves slightly and would have done it for free....

good luck and ask questions if you need help!

[AtomicDog]

Thank you, gentlemen, for your encouragement and advice. Voices of experience have that certain ring that catches and holds your attention.

That said, I do have a question or three...

Are the lock washers the standard split ring, or 'wave-lock' type? I want to make sure before I buy two sets of everything.

When you set ride height, did you put your weight equivalent in the driver's seat? Would this be considered an error for DE prep? If the track time is sure to come with an instructor, would it make more sense to weight the passenger side, as well?

Is there a more elegant solution to removal of the strut tower goop besides scraping?

I'm sure I'll have more later...

Thanks again.

Chris

[JohnJL]

don't recall about the washers but yes, full oil, half a tank of gas and your equivalent weight in the driver's seat.

[KFC911]

Originally posted by AtomicDog
Is there a more elegant solution to removal of the strut tower goop besides scraping?....
Chris

I used a hair dryer (didn't have a heat gun) and a plastic knife to scrape/remove the bulk of it and 'Goo Gone' for making it completely disappear. A bit of heat really helps...

[JohnJL]

Or "freeze spray." It makes it really brittle and you can just smash it.

The spring plate bushings suck tho...

[Wil Ferch]

Love it when guys say ..."get grade 8 ( or whatever other grade...grade 5)...


...for *metric* hardware !!...good luck because there aint any !!

US Grade 5 = metric property class 8.8
US Grade 8 = metric property class 10.9
Us Grade (?) 8+ = metric property class 12.9

Etc....

But I applaud the idea !!....

- Wil

[450knotOffice]

Lock washers:

Now that I think about it, I am certain the lockwashers were of the simple split-ring variety.

As for the hard sealer, I chipped almost all of it off and then used a solvent of some sort that wouldn't harm the paint for the rest of it. I don't remember what I used however. Goo gone sounds good though.

How's the job coming along? Pictures?

[kühn tune]

I probably spent 8 hours taking the rubber off of the spring arms.

[JohnJL]

Awww, come on wil, why you picking on me ;-)

Thanks for the info though, I didn't know that.

[rusnak]

The bolts that hold the suspension and the aluminum cross member to the body can't be overtorqued or you might pull out the lug threads, which would put you in a world of hurt. I usually use red Locktite (or blue whatever it doesn't matter) and flat washers. I think the torque is something like 35lbs or so, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[AtomicDog]

So far, things have been going rather slowly.

The car is up, front wheels removed, belly pan, sway bar mounts, front condenser protector bar, and strut top nuts removed. The tie rods are out of the steering arms.

Currently, the dust caps are kicking my a$$. I've tried the JW "chisel" method, freeze spray, etc. I thought I had a muffler clamp, but found that I'd used it on a muffler. Silly me.

I'm in the middle of fabricating a tool that should make this a lot easier. I also need to make a 32mm, 1/2" drive adapter for the TTR torquing. But all of this is taking up valuable time. I'd hoped to have the disassembly done before 4PM. No dice.

Back with more later.

Chris

[Wil Ferch]

On fastener grades...not pickin' on anyone ...

see here for more ---> http://www.textronfasteningsystems.com/eng_tools_f/grades.html

http://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-information/Bolt-Grade-Chart.aspx

-Wil

[450knotOffice]

I had this issue come up a year and a half ago when I rebuilt my suspension.

I finally ended up using Jeremy964's technique, which involved two hammers. The claw end of one hammer was placed into the little groove in the cover and the other side was laid up against a lugbolt. Then I took the second hammer and hit the first hammer on its steel head. The blow was horizontal and toward the car. I rotated the wheel 180 degrees and did it again, and again, and again, until the dust cap finally worked its way out. It worked, but what a pain in the arse just to get a dust cover off. By the way, don't worry about beating up the dust cover a bit. It's pretty thick and strong and is certainly not structural.

Give it a try. I think you'll find success, but be patient. At first it won't seem to be working, but ever so slowly it'll start to work its way out.

[AtomicDog]

Scott,

I'm impressed. Is that a white board, or paper? Photo, upload, post. Thank you.

I have a sneaking suspicion that, once the monsters are in bed, I'll be using this technique...

Chris

[AtomicDog]

If a picture is worth 1000 words:

driver's side before,



passenger's side before,



Bad news. Note the brake line by the paper towel. They don't always twist at the fitting.



More bad news. Good thing I have a welder.



The source of the squeak! Looks kind of benign compared to some of the other ones.



Did I mention that I still can't get the dust caps off...

The good news - I already had the bulk brake line and flaring kit. Now I just have to figure out what the flares should look like. Are they standard double flares? It didn't look like it at first glance...

Chris

[Don Plumley]

Dust caps - I used a cold drift chisel and hammer and just kept hitting it around the cap. Angle the drift punch towards the middle of the car, hitting it down and out away from the axle. Spin the rotor just a little bit, do it again. Continue until the dust cap starts to walk off the hub. First time took about 10 rotations with 8 or so hits per rotation.

Good luck!

Don