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Q - Size of oil pressure sender stem - 78SC ROW Model!

Guys,

My oil pressure sender on my 78SC ROW is busted and I need to replace. I bought a new sender from our host but am having some problems removing it!

I think my only option is to get at the stem with a crowsfoot and extension combo, but I cannot determine the proper size in MM yet. . .

Any ideas on what size in MM the stem is?

-Tom

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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-27-2006, 06:24 PM
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Man, that's a PIA!!!
I found the only wrench I could get on my sender was my 24mm ride height wrench. It's only about 3mm thick. I couldn't get a standard crow's foot on the stem. Hope this helps.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:34 PM
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Wayne -- So is it safe to assume the stem is 24MM at the base of the oil pressure sender?
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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-27-2006, 07:44 PM
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don't do it that way. you stand a chance of ripping the threads out of the case. they are bloody tight usually. take the 3 bolts out that hold the A/C unit to the bracket and lay the unit on a folded blanket on the rear fender. remove the top of the A/C bracket next. then you can get the sender and it's mounting block off together. put the block in a vise and remove the sender from it. takes about 10 minutes to remove the stuff. if you rip the threads out, you're screwed.
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:46 PM
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Hmmm.
I have the Carrera tensioners so mine is connected to the oil feed line on the right. Would A8's be different if he didn't have the tensioner upgrade?
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Old 09-27-2006, 07:49 PM
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John -- I do not have A/C. I should post a picture to show what I'm trying to do I guess.
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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-28-2006, 12:03 PM
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John - you are the man. I got it by exactly the method you described minus the AC remove (because I don't have AC)

Placing the box/recepticle in the vise was the only way I could get enough torque to remove old sender)

My new sender works and I have NO LEAKS!

My question is - what is the proper pressure reading at Idle - normal street driving etc?
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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-28-2006, 05:19 PM
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Glad John;s method worked. I will keep that for my mental files when it's time to do mine.

Normal pressure readings are usually around 1 at idle. The reading should go up as the revs increase. An old rule of thumb is 10psi for every 1000 RPM's. Mins reads right at 35 at 3000RPMs.
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Old 09-28-2006, 05:24 PM
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I went with the older 73-77 style gauge so that I could get actual oil temp in degrees....



does the oil pressure translate as well?
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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-28-2006, 05:43 PM
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Any ideas on what the acceptable range in oil pressure is for the older style gauge?

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[GruppeB # 978]
1978 911 SC ROW (Pure Euro, no DOT or EPA work done..)
1991 Toyota MR2 Turbo (3S-GTE 4Banger Rocket)
2001 Audi - A6 Quattro 4.2L-V8 (love the growl)
2014 Honda Odyssey for the soccer-team/accessories
Old 09-29-2006, 09:39 AM
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