Recommended Additional Parts For Front/Rear Shock Absorber Replacement
 

Folks,

I've searched the archieves but haven't found a good ref for my question.

I'm preparing to replace the front and rear shocks on my '83 SC. It has OEM Boge struts up front and what appears to be original shocks on the rear.

I'm wondering if there are any other parts/hardware that should be ordered/replaced with the shock replacement.

Not looking for "while you are at it" stuff, just recommendations with respect to shock replacement associated hardware/parts.

Thanks, Gordo

Gordo,
I did mine last month with Green Bilstein HDs, and everything I needed came with the shocks/inserts. Do a search here and you'll find tons of info - it's pretty simple. (As long as the old inserts weren't installed by Hercules:)

Everything in terms of hardware that needed to be replaced came with my bilsteins so you should be good to just install what is given to you. The front you can only replace one thing which is included and thats the strut top nut. The rear has lower bolts which are reuseable and top stud mount which your new shocks will come with a new stud nut. Its an easy installation, shouldnt take more than a couple hours, figure 1.5 for the front and about 1 hour for the rear.

I did the rears on my 1985 911. Nothing special. I took it to tire shop to break the lower bolts loose. I think I used Bilsteins, non-sport per recommendations.

I research the struts in front. This is a whole nother story.

After replacing rears at ~150K miles the Boge struts were still good. Stopping very flat.

I still have the research on the fronts. Send email to glenncof@sbcglobal.net.

No extra parts. The inserts that you pull out of the Boge struts will be very, very different from the Bilstein inserts, but it sounds like you may already know that. The only things that I can think of that make the job easier are:
1 The lower bolt for the shocks can be really tight. I just put a piece of pipe on the wrench to break them loose.

2 The top strut nut can be a pain unless you have an impact wrench

3 It would be nice if Bilstein included the special nut tool for the collar that holds the insert in. You can get one for free by calling Bilstein. You can probably manage with a set of channel locks, you just won't be able to torque the thing to a specific torque that way.

Oh and you should put 50ml of any oil in the strut housing before installing the strut. It will help with heat transfer and give it a tighter fit.

replace those F washers with the little lock tabs on them. $1.65 each IIRC

the old rubber for the strut mounts could use refreshig with new rubber - not cheap tho.

replace any badly messed up nuts, etc. and you are all set

As I remember, Bilstein does not recommend putting any lubricant in the strut housing. I could be wrong though..

Don:

Having my car aligned and corner balanced by TRE after I "upgraded" to Bilstein Sports made a bigger difference than ANYTHING I have ever done to my car.

So, budget in the extra $$ and time to have your car aligned and balanced by a Porsche expert.

Mike

Oil in the stru is optional IIRC; it wont hurt, but doesnt add anything but weight.

Best to suck as much out as you can with a turkey baster or some other siphon.

The whole job is not very difficult, I look at it as a relaxing project when I don't want a huge challenge. Tools are fairly basic, and all the parts should come with the shocks/inserts if you're ordering them new.

Thanks
 

Good to go,

Will look into the F washer, not sure what/where that is.

Other than that, sounds like the order of Bilstein Sports on all 4's should be about it. Read through loads of threads on HD vs Sport and combo mix...

I also read through threads on oil/no oil; I plan to go oil free.

Funny how many things on these cars bring about various options & opinions. I appreciate it all and ultimately go with whatever I can wrap my mind around.

Oddly enough I really don't consider the current handling of the car to be too bad, but I guess it's just something I have learned to accept. I don't track the car so the only kind of driving that gives me any indication of worn shocks is when I weave back and forth repeatedly (like driving through cones - not that I drive like that, however I do it here and there to convince my self I need to put some $$$ into the suspension). It feels a little boat-ish or rolls more than I think it should.

I think I'm going to hold off on the full up alignment/corner balance until I get some time and cash to tackle the other suspension components I would like to upgrade in one shot.

Thanks again, will update this weekend when I get the parts and start the project.

Gordo

I don't know about '83 but on '85 911 the Boge strut (black I think.) is 'disassebled' and the guts/fluid of the strut removed.

Make sure you know the color, this probably won't work unless they are Boge struts. Koni and Bilstein are different color. Boge was standard issue.

Important: The lower portion of the strut does not need to be removed from the spindle assembly on the 1985 (not sure on '83).

Support car, raise spindle assemble from below to compress strut. Remove locking washer and nut with appropriate tools (something must hold the plate). Remove nut/washer and lower spindle. I used ~7/8" (?) with 3/8" breaker bar. If rod is too long compress by hand (hard).

After removing the nut in the trunk, the rod coming from the top can clear the fender and pull it out ~45 degrees. Watch brake plumbing though.

Removing top with channel lock pliers. Gas will be released as it's under pressure. Get rid of all fluid per Bilstien.

Bilstiens in this 1985 application are inserts that screw into Boge case. The supplier should provide a Bilstien tool pictured in this post.

I spoke to Bilstein on Sport vs Non. They strongly recommended Non-Sport even for my heavier Cab. "unless" the car was lowered. I think it has something to do with operating range.

I pulled the top of strut out and checked the tightness of the original Boge to prepare for this project. I reinserted into car without needing alignment as the rubber attach at the top was not moved and of course the bottom portion wasn't either.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1160024112.jpg

Oh yes, mine rear would do a little dance on the highway before the rear shocks were changed.

Will look into the F washer, not sure what/where that is.

It goes just under the top nut and locks it - you bend the tab down.

on my car, p/n = 900.038.002.01 YMMV