rebuild parts list

I have compiled a couple of lists of things that I think will have to be bought before I tear down this motor. I would appreciate it if you all would give it a once over and see if I've forgotten anything or if you have any suggestions.

Tools:
flywheel lock-$20
Valve feeler gauge-$8
cam nut removal (crowsfoot)-$80!!!
cam holder (used w/ crowsfoot)-$30
cam sprocket pin remover-$4
clutch install. tool-$34
clutch alignment tool-$8
non-slip chain tool-$23
*piston ring remover/installer-$29
piston pin remover-$18
*Allen socket for head stud-$28
*Allen socket for heat exchangers-$24
*allen socket for flywheel-$28

* I think I might be able to find a couple of these things at a place like Sears. I'll just have to look.

As far as the motor itself goes I plan on buying the following:
Rebuild kit from Vertex-$775
head stud set,steel,993,ARP,-??4-500??
clutch kit-$330
Fuel accumulator-$45
Cold start Valve-$57
Warm up regulator-$160 rebuilt
OEM ignition wires-$140
CIS injection boot-$60
CIS injection boots-$5 ea
1 meter of various sizes of vacum hose.
Lubro Moly 49 MO52 assembly lube-$15
Dow Corning 111 sealant-$18
small pan and roller for loctite sealant application.
Would it be wise to replace all the valve springs on a motor w/ 217,000 miles on it?

Expenses on top of that include the machine work for the heads and god forbid anything else. Hopefully my pistons and cylinders are reuseable and nothing else requires machining.

Thoughts?




------------------
Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

Leland, You might try calling your local snap-on tool dealer. I happened to be driving by a gas station the other day and saw a Snap-On truck there.I was in the need for a 10mm allen head socket driver about 8in. long for my cylinder head nuts so I asked him and sure enough he had one right on the truck. He even switched it out to 3/8 drive for me. The cost: $18.00 Sears by the way, only carries little short stubby ones which probably would not work.
Hope this helps, Chris.

Leland, You might try calling your local snap-on tool dealer. I happened to be driving by a gas station the other day and saw a Snap-On truck there.I was in the need for a 10mm allen head socket driver about 8in. long for my cylinder head nuts so I asked him and sure enough he had one right on the truck. He even switched it out to 3/8 drive for me. The cost: $18.00 Sears by the way, only carries little short stubby ones which probably would not work.
Hope this helps, Chris.

Hey Leland, save some money.
Clutch alignment tool: available at local parts houses for about $4. Made of plastic, works well. Take your old clutch disc with you.
Piston pin remover: Take an old sparkplug, remove the hourglass-shaped piece on top, and the thread undeneath is perfect for a piston pin remover.
Flywheel lock: don't need it.
Clutch install tool: Don't know what this is, but I don't have one and never needed it during a clutch job and a later engine rebuild.
At 217,000 miles, expect to replace the pistons and cylinders, all valve guides, all exhaust valves, maybe the intake valves.
Get yourself a set of metric allen tools for a 3/8" drive. The 8mm, 8" long allen tool for the heat exchangers must be purchased separately.


[This message has been edited by Brian K. Haggard (edited 06-28-2000).]

I think the spark plug is for the cam pin. What is the 111 for?

[This message has been edited by mackgoo (edited 06-28-2000).]

Well thats why I wanted suggestions...
I've never done this before so I definately don't know what to expect.
Thanks for all the tips.

Jesus, I hope I don't have to replace the pistons / cylinders.


------------------
Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa

The Dow Corning 111 is what Bruce Anderson suggests for assembly of O-rings and other things.

Leland, in an e-mail message I suggested you visit Harbor Freight Tools, as there is one in your area. Don't know if you received that message. if you ask, I'll get you the address.

I also don't know what a clutch installation tool is. I can tell you that the Haynes manual is misleading (perhaps because of the various types of clutches over the years) and discusses procedures muc more complicated than the ones you will be using. My clutch job did not require any special tool other than the alignment tool (which is pretty cheap at local parts stores), and I had access to a flywheel lock, but this is probably not necessary.

I'll bet a "cam sprocket pin remover" is a plain old 'punch.' For $4 at Harbor Freight you can get a dozen different kinds all in a set.

I'm gonna repeat an earlier suggestion: Don't replace all those CIS p[arts unless you know they are bad. They are on the outside of the motor, and can wait, and besides, if they work, the new ones may not outperform them.

You can rebuild your ignition wire set, using excellent silicone cabling, for much less than $140.

Just trying to save you money, Leland. We're all going to come by and see you, and we will be expecting beers. Besides, there are expenses in this project that you can't see yet. Save for those!



------------------
'83 SC

Yep, your right. I was mistaking that with the RTV 730, wich was another case sealer. You need something with threads to remove the cam sprocket pin, that's why the threaded end of the spark plug works so good. You may want to start pouring over the PCA classifieds section of www.platz.com for a set of P&C's, just to see what is out there and be prepared just in case.

[This message has been edited by mackgoo (edited 06-29-2000).]

Thanks guys, I appreciate everything.
I will start making decisions on what need s to be bought and you all have definately given me some pointers and good suggestions.
Again, Thanks...

P.S. Jim ...I gotta cold one waitin' for ya!

------------------
Leland Pate

___79 SC Targa