valve adjustment

[JV44HeinzBar]

Hi all,
I've been hesitant about doing a valve adjustment myself without having actually seen one done before. However, after getting some quotes from the local mechanics, I'm more inclined to do it myself. But, if I can get a confident mechcanic to do it for me, I would be willing to pay for the extra satisfaction that the job was done right without having to worry that I screwed something up.

So, would any hazard to guess what a standard valve adjustment would cost in your region? I currently live in Maryland, so I would like to get a fair price estimate for doing a valve adjustment here. I would kinda like to know if I'm being conned or are these quotes legitimate? Can anyone help me out?

TIA,
Brent

[jimi_c]

$400 - $500 is what you'll pay up in the Philly area, I'm guessing you'd see the same down there. Don't think you can't do it though - search the forums, have the right tools handy - you can do it and do it well.

The first time I did them, it took about 4 hours - 1 hour to do the work, and 3 hours to second guess myself.

[Christien]

Yep, I'll second what Cory said. Do it yourself. I did - first time took me most of the afternoon, then did it again the next day because they were ticking. I still wasn't satisfied so did it again a few weeks later, and the car ran better than it ever had. And this is from someone who, when I bought my car in Nov/04, couldn't even identify which part was the carburetor

The trick is knowing what "just tight enough" feels like on the feeler guage. Search here for a good description of what the right resistance feels like, or even better yet, have someone show you. Once you've got that down, it's a walk in the park. (with a bit more backache!)

[76carrera3.0]

Do a search and look in to using the .002 /.003 feelers on the rocker to cam lobe technique can't go wrong doing it that way. Maybe someone can post a link to that thread for ya.

[bcr4d]

I also was a little hesitant about adjusting my valves. I asked many questions on this forum and finally built up enough nerve to do it myself. Wasn't bad as I thought it would be. The first time I did it they ticked, so I did it again about a week later. Now the valves are quiet and it runs like a scared puppy. Believe me, you can do it.

[Zeke]

The top (intake) valves are pretty easy to do. I'd say, get Wayne's book (if you haven't already) and a valve cover gasket kit and do the top, at least one side. Shoot, at least just one. If you don't like how it's going, take the rest of the kit to your mechanic and let him finish it.

BTW, valve adjustments commonly coincide with an oil change because the oil will run out of the bottom covers if it's not drained beforehand. Some raise the car from one side to keep the oil in while they tackle the high side exhaust valves. This is especially handy if you feel that one is not quite right. You don't have to drain the oil to go back and redo. The top valves can be worked on with the car on the ground. It's a good place to start and relatively safe. If you're comfortable, keep going. BTW#2, you can button things up and take a drive after doing just the top to see how you did. You will ahve to let the car cool for literally hours before you can get to the bottom, if you decide to test your beginning work. Do the tops all you like until you get it right. Don't make them too tight. Especailly the exhaust valves, but they all need to be pretty exact for the best performance and the nice quiet sound.

[cstreit]

Typical valve adjust is around 3-5 hours depending on the car. Multiply times the labor rate...

[Christien]

Oh yeah, spend extra for the silicone gasket kit!! I didn't, and now enjoy the lovely smell of oil dripping onto my heat exchangers and burning.

[khamul02]

Originally posted by Christien
Oh yeah, spend extra for the silicone gasket kit!! I didn't, and now enjoy the lovely smell of oil dripping onto my heat exchangers and burning.

silicone gasket kit!! Best money I ever spent

[jimi_c]

Here's the link to the post that 76carrera3.0 referred to:

valve adjustment

[nesslar]

See Doug's (2.7racer) Tech Info Forum article "911 Valve Adjustment-The Backside Method". You'll find that on the Pelican home page, then click "Tech Info Center", then click on "911 Series", then click on "911 Technical Articles", and finally Doug's masterpiece. I think it's the sixth article from the top of the list.
Always liked a nice "backside"......

[Gunter]

Originally posted by Christien
Oh yeah, spend extra for the silicone gasket kit!! I didn't, and now enjoy the lovely smell of oil dripping onto my heat exchangers and burning.

Leaks can happen when:
Both sides (Case and cover) have not been cleaned enough,
The cover is warped.
Put a large sheet of fine sand paper on a sheet of glass and gently pull the cover over it. Check the surface and keep sanding until all is even.
No silicone gasket needed as long as surfaces are cleen and not warped!
An old trick we used in industry is to put antiseize lube on both sides of an ordinary gasket. That way, it'll never stick.
I have been reusing the same old gakets (With antiseize on both sides) for the last 5 oil changes without leaks.

[Christien]

Originally posted by Gunter
I have been reusing the same old gakets (With antiseize on both sides) for the last 5 oil changes without leaks.

That's amazing! I think it's fair to say you've got more patience than I! I did put the valve covers on a flat surface and check for warps and bends, couldn't find any, and even then sanded them a bit to clean them up. And I added gasket maker to both sides of the non-silicone gasket. Still leaks... Next time I pull them off, I'll try the glass/sandpaper method.

[JV44HeinzBar]

Hi,
Thanks for the great replies. I'm fortunate enough that my Pcar has the turbo cover upgrade, so I hope that minimizes the possibility of warping.

I understand the idea of time x $$ equals the valve adjustment price, but I guess I'm curious if this type of job various greatly depending on location. I'm also still hesitant about doing the job myself without having actually seen it performed in person. I guess I need to get intouch w/ PCA to see if any locals (MD) are doing a valve job soon. Maybe I can get invited to see how it's done in person..hint, hint

Sincerely,
Brent

[bmgmd]

Just finished this today!

Used the "Backside"/"Go No-Go" method and only needed to adjust Cylinders 1 and 6!

Had a friend help from under the car while I was checking from the engine bay.

With the money I saved I'll be getting an SW chip...

[livi]

I second the DIY advice.

And believe me, if I could pull it of - anyone can ! I have five thumbs on each hand and no tech education or inclination what so ever. Just a burning desire to learn.

[Christien]

Originally posted by JV44HeinzBar
I understand the idea of time x $$ equals the valve adjustment price, but I guess I'm curious if this type of job various greatly depending on location.

I guess it would depend on how good the mechanic is. Say they each charge $60/hr for labour, someone who's done lots of adjustments on 911s could do it in say 2 hours, plus parts, total bill under $150. Someone who's equally as competent but less familiar with the procedure might take 3 or 4 hours, plus parts, total bill closer to $300.

[S2GART]

Just a quick valve adjustment related question, how often are you guys doing them?

[EarlyPorsche]

I would just pay someone to do it, honestly it so much easier .

[p911sc]

I was just reading this earlier tonight. Wayne's book recommends every 10,000 miles on later model 911s (1978 and later) and every 6,000 miles on older models.

Anyone know why the difference?
Rick